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The way the a-arms work (at least when I don't install the ball joint up-side-down, yes it has happened very late at night, half asleep), the arms have about an inch drop in them, and the area where the ball joint screws into (the bung) is slightly tilted. They are no longer than the OEM, just shaped differently, so if you do lay them next to an OEM piece they appear longer. This than puts the ball joint back almost in prelift angle. When you lift a KJ the upper arms tilts downward pullimng the top of the tire in. At the same time the lower arm pulls the bottom in. The angle of the upper arm pulls the top of the tire in more, thus the tilt in the tire.
The lifted shock shown on the web site are for the Dakota/Durango, and what I have read, the bushing sleeve will need to be replaced, its to large. The KJ shock uses a 12 mm sleeve (.47"), while the other shock uses something like a 5/8 (.625") thus the rattle from both Rusty's, my Edelbrook's, and most likely the Dakota shocks. The other shocks should fit fine, since these are (?) direct replacement for the OEM shocks.
The CV joint or half angle does not change when you install the arms. Once you lift your KJ, the half shaft angle will change. My front lift right now consists of a 1 inch top spacer, a 1 inch daystar spring spacer (custom made) Rusty's 2.5 inch coils and a full clevis lift. which gives me around 3.5-3.75 inches of lift.
Al
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One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ
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