2003 Liberty Sport 4x4, flip up power lock window does not want to stay seated in lock postion, it keeps popping open.

I'm getting NO response from the key FOB. I've tried manually resetting the lock, I've taken the panel off and probed a test light into the 2 connectors that feed into the pwr lock, no power. I even tried using the test light and hitting the keyless button, still No Power. The rear wiper isn't working and I believe it's because the window is not seating. When I do close the window, I can manually get it to catch the very tip of the lock, if you close a door the cabin pressure causes it to pop open again. The window does open 1st when I pull on the tailgate handle. I do not hear any clicking of any soleniod.

I checked the 2 only fuses on the BCM (near drivers door) their OK. There is No dedicated fuse per the owners manual for the Tailgate/Window. Also all other doors lock & unlock with the key FOB.

I don't want to buy another actuator if the problem is NO Power.

Is there another BCM that contains the fuse for the power lock on the tailgate window?

P.S.--I picked up another switch/actuator from the Junk Yard, still the same problem, No Power.

I haven't torn into the tailgate on mine yet, but since both the lock and the wiper motor are not working, rather than a power issue, I would suspect a faulty ground. It is much cheaper to test the power and the ground than to buy another actuator.

Buy or make yourself a test light to check for power. To make one, get an alligator clip with an insulation piercing prong for one end, a regular alligator clip on the other, and a side marker light pigtail socket with a #194 lamp and you're in business. Check to see if there is power coming in by piercing the insulation to the wiper motor and/or the lock actuator, while connecting the other end to a good ground (perhaps on the body somewhere, rather than the tailgate). If there is power, the lamp should light. Then, if there is power, check the ground in wires in the tailgate. An ohmmeter will be useful for this, but not required.

If the above is not determinative (i.e., if there actually is power reaching the tailgate wiring), run a jumper from a good power source to either the wiper motor and/or the actuator (this might be a bit trickier, look for a wiring diagram and watch the colors carefully), to thereby rule out a bad connector, or a smoked motor or actuator.

Do all this before shelling out for another actuator. Good luck.

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
2016 Grand Cherokee Overland CRD.