I have an issue with the rear glass on the CRD. when I pull the handle on the gate the latch for the glass does not cycle. However it does work with the fob. Any ideas?

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

There is a microswitch assembly that needs to be replaced in the gate handle. I have the same issue with mine i just havent got around to replacing it. Make sure and test it all with a meter prior to just replacing parts, you just might be in a different situation. I found a part number but cannot find any pictures to the item. Part no:05143017AA

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"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack

My latch was intermittent at best, after cycling it repeatedly with some lithium lube it is working with the handle again.

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Eddie Ott "I like fun" OI!IIII!IO

That microswitch and the wire harness that goes with it is not sold as a separate part - it is only sold new with the entire handle and latch assembly

My local dealer sells it for $91 - but I've seen it on various Mopar online parts site for around $80. Parts guy at my local dealer said they stock the handle assemblies because they have a fair number that need replaced. He also thinks it's ridiculous that the switch can't be ordered separately. It's not ridiculous - it's stupid

Bob

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2003 Liberty
- 3.7L V6, NP242 SelecTrac Transfer Case
- OME 927/948's, Bilsteins, JBA Gen 4.5 A-arms, JBA 1/4" top plate, 3-ring clevis, 2 extra rear isos
- Rubicon Moabs
- 4.10's, 265/70-16 Goodyear Duratracs
- 4X Guard Trans Skid, Modded BoulderBars, Mopar Engine, T-Case, Tank Skids, ARB bumper, Smittybilt 9500XRC winch

Mine is doing this today, will see if I can strip it down & repair it rather than replace the handle. Will post some pictures up with what I find

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

Hi,:wave:

had the same problem in spring this year...

i´ve posted something about there: http://www.jeep4fun.at/jeepforum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34631

Yes, i´m sorry, its all in German, but i think you understand what i mean with the pics...

This is the part i bought for replacing the OEM:

http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/700293/Marquardt-Subminiatur-Schnappschalter-24-VDC-Serie-1055-10580351-1-x-EinEin-Kabellitzen-IP67;jsessionid=454F55412A35B8A0093146BC262361F6.ASTPCEN17

I´m sure you will find the same in the us...

by,
samse

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WJ 4,7 HO Overland 2002
KJ 2,8 CRD Red River 2003

Thanks for that, switch isn't expensive to replace which is good, will pop the handle off tomorrow

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

In addition to Samse's post you can repair the switch.

If you look at his picture here


You can see the contacts the wires have broken off, I just removed the top rubber cover, cleaned & resoldered the wires & replaced the rubber cover by covering the wires in glue from a hot glue gun



There is a slight mistake on that picture as I didn't set the wires coming out at 90deg to the switch so I had to cut away at it to reposition the wires.


I didn't bother with the metal clip when refitting the switch, just glued it in, hopefully the glue will stop the moisture getting in the switch. If it fails again it is easy enough to cut the switch out, the glue isn't that strong.

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

MacGyver of UK...

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WJ 4,7 HO Overland 2002
KJ 2,8 CRD Red River 2003

too mean to spend money & watched too much A Team as a kid

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

Samse and Steve, great posts from both of you. I'm going to try the "McGyver" approach first, and if that doesn't do the trick I'll buy the Marquardt micro switch and take care of it that way. With shipping the switch runs $32US, 1/3 the cost of the Chrysler handle assembly.

Two thumbs up for both of you!

Bob

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2003 Liberty
- 3.7L V6, NP242 SelecTrac Transfer Case
- OME 927/948's, Bilsteins, JBA Gen 4.5 A-arms, JBA 1/4" top plate, 3-ring clevis, 2 extra rear isos
- Rubicon Moabs
- 4.10's, 265/70-16 Goodyear Duratracs
- 4X Guard Trans Skid, Modded BoulderBars, Mopar Engine, T-Case, Tank Skids, ARB bumper, Smittybilt 9500XRC winch

Check out the micro switches at allelectronics.com

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... ion/1.html

Maybe one of these will fit/work. Most are priced at $1 to $2 plus shipping.

By the way, I'm not connected to allelectronics.com in any way, other than a repeat customer.

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2009 Liberty Sport - Deep Water Blue

First Commandment of Four Wheeling: Thou shall keep thy momentum, lest the mud rise up and smite thee, dragging thee and thy Jeep down into the bottomless mire.
Farmall: (farm'ol) n The original off road vehicle often used to retrieve momentumless Jeeps, out of the bottomless pit of muck and mire.