K, I know this is my first post, but trust me, I have been lurking around in the background for about two years reading posts and what not, and I'm pretty sure I have seen every picture of a KK diff that's available on the internet lol.

04 gasser KJ here..

My front diff is worn RIGHT out, sounds like a cat in heat. I have a whole pile of lift parts, springs etc.. but before I lift it I have a few not so basic question for you folks with all the spare parts.

1) Will the KK engine cradle bolt onto the kj, if so, does it hold the engine in the same location? (if not, I will mod mine)

2)Will the CV shafts from a KK, work with the KJ wheel bearings/unit hubs on the front end?

3)Is there any difference between the KJ and KK steering knuckles? (I ask this for purpose of upper a arm angle)

4) MOST IMPORTANT: for those of you that have removed the engine cradle on a KJ, where did you support the engine while removing it? iE, from the ground. or do I have to weld up my own crane? (which could be fun >:) )

I know many of you have talked about the KK diff swap, but I'm going for it, with pics, I cannot be discouraged or bought out I must do this out of necessity, I live in Canada, and this year, old man winter kicked the SHIZZ outta my ride.

Thanks in advance Ryan.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

I'll let someone answer the other questions, but as far as supporting the engine, the best way may be to get an engine support cradle that holds the engine in place from up above. We use them on front wheel drive cars when dropping the subframes out on them a lot, or in some cases for engine mount removal to do engine work.

So use a saddle type strap deal? Maybe a heavy recovery strap that goes all the way around? I was considering an axle stand on the back of the oil pan lip/tranny bell housing.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

First why switch out from KJ to KK front diff and its a necessity?
Engine sits in basically the same location
KKs use different upper and lower control arms and spindle than the KJ
Different mounts as well , I have measurements of both but haven't looked at them lately

Just wondering why or what you expect to gain, just curious

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Guessing the KK front diff, its stronger in design?
As for the engine cradle, this is similar to what I meant:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html

Hell I made my own engine support,bolted to the same location as the front coilovers do.Used a 1200lbs ratchet strap,worked great.

Just finished at 12 hour shift, so this may be scatter brained... Sorry

Tjkj! Omg your like my f*ing hero! (Told ya I was lurking on the forums for awhile lol)

I love your engine support! And I love welding.. So the general consensus is, that I have to support it from the top. Roger thanks a million guys!!

With regards to my desire to change diffs...

I am modifying my original post.. Tjkj, your question sparked an idea in my head... I am a millwright.. Why don't I just make something.

I know I probably caught alot of attention with my post, but here I shall somewhat keep to the original idea, I should pull the kj diff off, rebuild it or buy a good one, whichever is cheaper.. And truss it! Like truss the hell out of it! Front back, upside down and sideways!!

Aluminum always goes on sale ... So instead of the prices being as follows:

295 dollars for used kk diff with 3.73
150 dollars for used kk cradle
?? 145 dollars in cv shafts

And still having an aluminum d30, albeit stronger...

Why not this:
145 dollars for used kj diff
95 dollars worth of aluminum stock
120 dollars for new cvs (for poops and giggles, I got 230,200 Kms on mine)

And in the end I'll have a bolt on diff for any kj that will probably ALOT stronger than the kk's
And this way, I won't have to drop the cradle

It might weigh 45 lbs more.. But I guarantee you the nose cone won't split.

Sorry for this huuuuuuge scatterbrained message.. I'm tired, but you guys rock.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

So how are you gonna truss the KJ diff?

Sent with the power of children's screams!!!

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

aluminum can be welded. I'm gonna get creative.. pics to follow..

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Gotta post pics....I can weld aluminum but I haven't had the drive or the thought to do the factory diff....I figured if I ever blow it, im getting a steel diff with 4.56

Sent with the power of children's screams!!!

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Just got in from work. I gotta get this out there before I go slush brained like last night.

Sourced a diff from a mom and pop yard, delivered to my door 217, taxes in.. The local big name yard quotes me 350 with a core of 50 bucks... Before taxes.. But yet a kk diff was waaaaaay less than that IIRC.

I did some humming and haaing about how to go about this.. Pretty sure it's gonna be a grind down of the current "fins" with some 1/4 inch aluminum gussets front to back with a machines to fit collar welded onto the nose cone which further more ties into gussetry and perhaps maybe a gusset to the intermediate shaft tube..

Not exact sure yet how it's all gonna piece together but one things for sure. I am stoked!!!

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Let me know how it goes I'm about to put a new diff I an could love to strengthen it a bit. I cracked mine all the way to the front


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ome927 + clevis & strut plate, Ome 948 + 2xtra iso's, Ome n131 hd, bilstein 5125 4in rears, jba A-arms, jba link extension, 265-75-16 Duratracs

This should be interesting to watch.

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.