OME Installation thread?

Boss · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 11:25 am

Good Morning
I am finally ready financially to order the OME kit for my 2005 Liberty CRD. Before I pull the trigger I want to read about the installation, to see if I want to do it or let a local front-end shop do the work. I searched, but there are a ton of threads about the OME. I'm hoping we've got a comprehensive how to here or somewhere.
Thank you

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 1:05 pm

I would say do it yourself but have the springs and such assembled by them.. That is the hardest part

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Boss · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 1:29 pm

I'm on the Jeepin by Al Facebook page now asking questions because here in northeastern New Mexico it is too windy to be outside. lot of good info there as well. I didn't think to ask about the springs, thanks for that

blackfin2 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:04 pm

Brian,

I would do it yourself. Order the front springs/struts assembled if you can. The job is straight forward and basic. You will need a good socket set with extensions, two jack stands, and a jack of course. I have only installed two lifts on Liberty's, and found a port-a-power to be handy when trying to insert the bolt back into the bottom strut fork. It's not a necessity, but makes it easier to push the lower A-arm down for fitment.

If you buy a lift kit, it should come with a step by step instruction sheet or link.

Make sure to have the alignment checked afterwards.

Boss · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:07 pm

awesome thanks plus I found this in the stickies right on top Doh! viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44037

blackfin2 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:32 pm

Oh yeah, it's a good time to do your brakes if needed and double check your ball joints, wheel bearing, CV's and CV boots. Plus check the bushings on the upper and lower A-arms.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 3:28 pm

blackfin2 wrote:

Brian,

I would do it yourself. Order the front springs/struts assembled if you can. The job is straight forward and basic. You will need a good socket set with extensions, two jack stands, and a jack of course. I have only installed two lifts on Liberty's, and found a port-a-power to be handy when trying to insert the bolt back into the bottom strut fork. It's not a necessity, but makes it easier to push the lower A-arm down for fitment.

If you buy a lift kit, it should come with a step by step instruction sheet or link.

Make sure to have the alignment checked afterwards.

2 rachet straps, quick and easy attach to the legs of the clevis and they pull them right in real easy

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 3:30 pm

Boss wrote:

awesome thanks plus I found this in the stickies right on top Doh! viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44037

Its not hard to install a lift on a KJ/KK at all
Have the front assembly compressed by a shop, rest is unbolt and rebolt up.

Rich · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:50 pm

The hardest part is compressing the struts to get the topnuts and springs off/on.

This is the method I have used 3 times (phots are missing the straps wrapped around the strut body/spring and connected to the sides of the press for the "pwannngggg" situation that has yet to occur... better safe than sorry.

Just keep the press plates open enough to get an impact socket up from the bottom to zip on/off the top nut. When compressing the OME springs, you'll need a little chunk of wood (I use a bit of 3/8" plywood with a v-notch) to align the strut rod as you squish.

Rears take about 30min from start to finish.

Boss · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2014 11:03 pm

thanks everyone, it does seem from your posts to be straight forward. I've got to have some other front-end work done as well so that is why I'm thinking of letting the front-end shop have at it. It will be the first thing I've let someone else do on my vehicles so I'm a little nervous. When I first got the Jeep, this shop said ball joints or tie-rods were loose, I don't remember which it was. If it is the ball joints I'm going to buy Jeepinal's upper control arms they look awesome too. But I don't know it may be the tie rods as the front follows the pitch of the road and whichever way the wind blows, that seems more like a tie rod, but honestly I've not had time to look at it as I recently did the timing belt on our TDI and I have my Dodge dually in the shop, I'm installing a Pierce Arrow dump bed kit. The thought of someone else taking a project off my hands is appealing :juggle:

Boss · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 9:46 am

not to be insensitive to Tornado Alleians
but look what seems to have pretty much survived unscathed

From the Chicago Tribune this morning

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:48 pm

IF you let a shop do it , make sure they know to only tighten everything after it is on the ground, meaning full weight . If not you will preload the bushings in the UCAs / Sway bar etc
Seems a lot of shops don't know this and will let to issues

Rich · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:10 pm

tommudd wrote:

IF you let a shop do it , make sure they know to only tighten everything after it is on the ground, meaning full weight . If not you will preload the bushings in the UCAs / Sway bar etc
Seems a lot of shops don't know this and will let to issues

tightening what on the ground?

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:22 pm

Rich wrote:

tommudd wrote:

IF you let a shop do it , make sure they know to only tighten everything after it is on the ground, meaning full weight . If not you will preload the bushings in the UCAs / Sway bar etc
Seems a lot of shops don't know this and will let to issues

tightening what on the ground?

Upper control arms/ sway bar links/ everything, of course calipers and caliper mounts can be fully tightened before, but all suspension parts , drop it down and then recheck tighten everything
If you tighten the UCAs and sway bar links before you will preload ......wait :shock:

I already explained this

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:23 pm

Rich wrote:

The hardest part is compressing the struts to get the topnuts and springs off/on.

This is the method I have used 3 times (phots are missing the straps wrapped around the strut body/spring and connected to the sides of the press for the "pwannngggg" situation that has yet to occur... better safe than sorry.

Just keep the press plates open enough to get an impact socket up from the bottom to zip on/off the top nut. When compressing the OME springs, you'll need a little chunk of wood (I use a bit of 3/8" plywood with a v-notch) to align the strut rod as you squish.

Rears take about 30min from start to finish.

Scary looking,
I have seen springs come out of commercial compressors and go 25-30 foot and take a chunk out of a block wall before ( one of my sets )

At The Helm · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:55 pm

Rich wrote:

The hardest part is compressing the struts to get the topnuts and springs off/on.

This is the method I have used 3 times (phots are missing the straps wrapped around the strut body/spring and connected to the sides of the press for the "pwannngggg" situation that has yet to occur... better safe than sorry.

Just keep the press plates open enough to get an impact socket up from the bottom to zip on/off the top nut. When compressing the OME springs, you'll need a little chunk of wood (I use a bit of 3/8" plywood with a v-notch) to align the strut rod as you squish.

Rears take about 30min from start to finish.

Holy crap that looks sketchy. I have a 20ton press in my shop too but would never do that. If that heavy spring assembly slipped out of there it could be deadly. :grim:

Rich · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:00 pm

I am guessing you don't read much?

Boss · **Posted:** Fri May 02, 2014 8:17 am

okay today is the day I can order the OME lift kit.
Well tomorrow, when I'm off work and have my check in the bank.
I'd like some clarity on the process please.
So the company is in Australia, and there is no USA distributor for the OME for the CRD specifically, although JeepinbyAl has imported the Ironman kits for the KKs, but the rear springs because of the unibody on the liberty and the extra weight of the diesel engine the Ironman isn't recommended. (breathe)
So I'm left with ordering from Downunder.
Questions for the experienced USA buyer:
How long does it take to get here?
Do I need Bongo?
Have you had any issues? How to avoid these issues?
What are is the largest tire size which will fit the original rims after the OME lift? I love my turning radius, don't want to mess with that, and can't afford new rims now.
This is obviously a large chunk of change and yes, I'm a little nervous.
Any advice will be most appreciated.

That's my Jeep way down there. Maybe next time I'll park out of the fall zone, hehe

Rich · **Posted:** Fri May 02, 2014 8:29 am

you are overthinking this!

OME = ARB

Any ARB dealer will get you the parts needed. If you just want the OME lift, order from Quadratec

http://www.quadratec.com/products/76090_51X_PG.htm

Make sure you get the springs you want when you order... I would call.

I, and a friend here, are running 245/75-16 on a set of TJ Tomb Raiders and TJ Moabs, respectivly. I get a smidge of rubbing on the pinch-weld cover when backing up and turning to full lock, I also rub when I fully suff the left rear tire into the fender well.. right on the rear corner of the door/fender flare YMMV. These wheels have different offset/width than your OEM wheels. I also have a friend that is running 265/75-16 on stock wheels with some spacers, he had to smash the pinch weld, remove fender liner, and hack up his bumper to keep from rubbing.

Boss · **Posted:** Fri May 02, 2014 8:45 am

Ha, there is a saying, "Nothing I ever worried about ever happened." Fretting has it's place.

OME Installation thread?

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