Newbie to this forum...Thanks in advance for any help!!

Have a couple of stripped wheel studs and when I tried to replace them, I beat them out but now I can't get the stud out from behind the hub. Any thoughts on where/how they can be removed without removing any other parts.

You will have to remove the hub.
Its the only way.
Would be a good time to check you front wheel bearings.

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U.S. Army Retired

Thanks for the reply flash...These are on the rear wheels though.

Thanks for clarifying. Makes a big difference.
For the rear, you will probably have to remove the axle shafts. But I'm not exactly sure.

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U.S. Army Retired

yup, open the dif, pull the threaded pin, remove the clip, slide the axle out.

Not much more work than changing the fluid.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thanks...Guess I will give it a try, I have removed front hubs, but never rear.

It's a lot less work than the fronts, and gives you a chance to catch any problems in the dif, like broken spider gears I've seen on these.
If you replace with a rubber seal, it will save you big next time. Only big job is scraping the darn silicone off.
If you have limited slip, good time to rebuild it, or good time to add a Detroit True Trac also...

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Will look for those issues Mountainman

It's also the best time to weld the spider gears together for added traction offroading.

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U.S. Army Retired

Forgot about the brake caliper, but that's not much more work. Have to be careful when pulling those long axles out, or putting them back, as you can damage the seal.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I assume the pin and the clip are inside the diff??

Yup, the pin has an 8mm head I think, and then just push in slightly on the axle, and the clip will fall out, or easily be removed depending on the position of the gears/axle. Probably easiest to have the whole rear on jack stands so you can rotate the thing, it's been a while since I've messed with one though. I think two of the spider gears like to fall out also, but I never worried about which one went where... maybe I'm wrong on that, but it's obvious when you're in there, nothing to worry about.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thanks again...Sounds relatively fool proof! Cars been on stands since last Sunday, wifey will be getting pissed if I don't finish tomorrow!! lol

Thanks again Mountainman...Your advice was correct down to the 8mm pin.

anytime, glad I could be helpful

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete