I understand, i think the tie rod end removal process. But, are there two nuts or one nut on each side of the tie rod to loosen so the tie rod can be maneuvered off?

Next, the reason I'm thinking I need a new tie rod is that the nut isn't going on very easily. Even builds heat when I try to crank on it. I've got a couple of nuts with the nyloc inserts like came off the tie rod in the first place and they all do the same thing. Second, the shaft is now turning when I try to turn the nut on but they have a 10mm end on the end of the shaft. My question, is the shaft supposed to turn and is not an indication of the tie rod end needing replacement?

If the shaft is supposed to remain in places and not turning, then maybe i do need to remove the tie rod.

Many times the threads are corroded some making it hard to reinstall the nut on the tie rod
Going on hard is not a reson to replace unless you completely mess up the threads
The nut on the arm going to the steering rack is for adjustment , ( they will need to turn it to set the toe in when you get the alignment done tomorrow )
Have you tried having a 10 mm wrench on the bottom and tightening that nut up? After a few turns it should go easily

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Yes Sir, I put a 10mm on the bottom. I guess that's why they put that there for a 10mm wrench. Finally got it on after I thoroughly cleaned the threads and put on some anti seize. I did not want to use the rusty nut, but so be it. Wisconsin vehicle originally!

If I don't need to replace it at this point, all the better. Its torqued down now.

Thank you again.

Moved on to the back of the vehicle, took the shock off fairly easily, got the spring out and then tried to figure out how to get the new 2.5 inch lift spring in. Had to resort to spring compressors though the directions don't call for it.

For the rear next time.

Remove tires
Remove shocks
Let axle droop all the way down
Jack up on one side of the axle
Remove opposite spring
Repeat for other side.

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Don't forget to do a proper preload on the control arm bushings. And to redo the preload on the lower ones as well.

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Darn, wish I had known of or thought about the opposite side of the axle lifting. Guess it tilts down the end I'm working on!!

How do I do preload the UCA's. Oh, and those bolts are a genuine pain in the rear!! They are all hidden now by stuff in the engine compartment. Tightened down real well.

By preload, tighten all bushings with the wheels/weight of jeep on the ground.

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Thank you!
Installing driver side rear tomorrow, so I'm looking forward to installing spring without the spring compressors. One side had to be released by hand when in, since I couldn't access one of the sticks. Took us a while.

Thank you for the insight.

Not sure I can preload the A-arms at this time. Can't get at the bolts any more. We've reassembled the engine bay, but I did have a jack holding the lower A arm up while tightening. Hopefully that will do the trick??

What the preload does it put the bushings back in a non twisted state. (Preload ) if not the bushings get twisted more. And are sitting twisted. All bushings at the end of what was lifted doing the lift should be lossened and a new preload done. Front upper and lower control arms. Also the back control arms. It will make the ride better and make the life of the bushing last longer.

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I never really touched the rear lower control arms. Loosened up the shocks and will torque once the vehicle is on the ground. as for the A Arms, I'm going to leave them. Its a pain to get in there again and everything is back in place. On a Diesel, its almost impossible to get in there.