I understand, i think the tie rod end removal process. But, are there two nuts or one nut on each side of the tie rod to loosen so the tie rod can be maneuvered off?

Next, the reason I'm thinking I need a new tie rod is that the nut isn't going on very easily. Even builds heat when I try to crank on it. I've got a couple of nuts with the nyloc inserts like came off the tie rod in the first place and they all do the same thing. Second, the shaft is now turning when I try to turn the nut on but they have a 10mm end on the end of the shaft. My question, is the shaft supposed to turn and is not an indication of the tie rod end needing replacement?

If the shaft is supposed to remain in places and not turning, then maybe i do need to remove the tie rod.

Yes Sir, I put a 10mm on the bottom. I guess that's why they put that there for a 10mm wrench. Finally got it on after I thoroughly cleaned the threads and put on some anti seize. I did not want to use the rusty nut, but so be it. Wisconsin vehicle originally!

If I don't need to replace it at this point, all the better. Its torqued down now.

Thank you again.

Moved on to the back of the vehicle, took the shock off fairly easily, got the spring out and then tried to figure out how to get the new 2.5 inch lift spring in. Had to resort to spring compressors though the directions don't call for it.

Darn, wish I had known of or thought about the opposite side of the axle lifting. Guess it tilts down the end I'm working on!!

How do I do preload the UCA's. Oh, and those bolts are a genuine pain in the rear!! They are all hidden now by stuff in the engine compartment. Tightened down real well.