I'd like to get rid of the factory roof rails and weld up something stronger.

Does anyone have dimensions they can share?
Looking to know what size the mounting pad should be and what the minimum height and length should be.

Thanks

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U.S. Army Retired

your mounting pads are basically the 4"x1.5" pre-existing sections where the stock rails bolt on

google the rock lizard roof rack , youll see a few variants of that type of rack including the RL

not trying to intentionally brush you off onto a specific design, but whether youre just wanting rails with no tied in basket, or rails with a bolt on basket, or a fully welded up setup, it seemed like the most appropriate example as the mounting basis for all of the racks for our platform start off from that type of footer as thats where the roof is reinforced for it

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03 Renegade (Black)
177k miles 3.7L gas - 45RFE
Command Trac / 4.10s
Lift: ft. 790+ rr. JBA4+
The last of the TrailReady Front&Rear Bumpers and TR Rock Rails
Jarhead Offroad light covers
31x10.5R15 RedLetter Grabbers on Blackrock Dunes
L.O.S.T #KD098632

Yes I've also removed my factory roof racks. The front pads are(excuse the use of mm) - 225 x 40 x 5mm thick and fit flat to the roof. The mounting bolts on the roof are M6X1 x 25 long hex bolts and you need two per pad. These M6 bolts are 150mm apart but are not symetrical to the center line of the pad or equidistant from each end. You have to work out where each bolt will pass through the pad and drill a 7mm hole and see if bolts fit through the pad. You end up with left and right specific pads - mark them as such.

Next weld/braze an upright to each pad. Bolt the assembly to the roof and tack weld (nb disconnect battery and alternator) the crossbar to the left and right up rigths. The pads relative to the crossbar are not at right angles so bolting and tacking is the only way to get the angles correct - unless you make a jig. I then brazed all the joints and checked that it still fitted. The rack can warp during welding/brazing so might have to be realigned to get it to fir again. I then had the rack epoxy coated. I also used s/steel bolts to bolt the rack to the roof. A rubber gasket (car inner tube) cut to the same size as the pad o act as a cushion and seal between the pad and the roof. If anyone is interested I can send them a photo!!!

I haven't made the rear roof rack as I use a "T" bar fitted to the tow hitch as my rear rack. If you wanted to make a rear rack you would follow the same procedure as the front rack. The only difference is that the rear pads are curved down at the back (towards the rear window) to follow the shape of the roof. I can send a pic of that as well if anyone is interested.

I removed the complete factory setup from the wind shield to the rear glass. Purchased 1.1/2" x 3.16" steel bar and shaped it to follow the roof line and welded 6 supports to take a heavy duty roof rack. Mounted it on 2" neoprene rubber the full length of the exposed roof gutter using the existing bolts. Supper strong?

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4