Tommunds econolift part numbers

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

Hey guys, i recall seeing this around a month or two ago, but i cant seem to find it anywhere now, im in canada so im going to try and order the springs and shocks from ouipack.com, ill be ordering the bump stops and clevis spacer from jba, my questions are:
What are the part numbers for the springs and long travel rear shocks?
Do i need the ylink extension and jba uca for sure?
Is there a longer rear spring i can use ie 4" or should i just use isolators and if so how big should they be?

Thanks in advance!

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:04 am

Front springs are Ironman so not sure you can get them from anyone up there
Why not do OME all around?
Yes if over 3 inches you need JBA UCAs

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

Sorry i meant the ome version of the lift

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:41 am

Well there isn't a version with OME
BUT OME can be used and its been written up at least 1000's of times on here
but one more time
( so assuming you have a gasser)
Front
OME 927
OME front shocks 90009 ( all the same )
3/8 inch clevis
1/4 inch top plate
Teraflex bumpstops
Rear
OME 948
OME shocks making sure you get the longer ones not stock length, N132L
two upper rear isolators per side ( 4 total)
2 hockey pucks per side for bumpstops

JBA upper control arms
about will give you about 3.5-3.75 inches when fully settle in , right where you want to be I assume , right height no spring/ UCA contact
245-75-16 tires on it and done unless you are also regearing to 4.10s and going larger tires

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:42 pm

I would like to clairify some information and ask some questions of my own;

tommudd wrote:

two upper rear isolators per side ( 4 total)

1. You mean purchase 4 more upper rear isolators and install 2 to each side. (3 total per side, original one, plus 2 new ones)

tommudd wrote:

OME shocks making sure you get the longer ones not stock length, N132L

2. I have read that you can subsitute OME rear shocks for a stock 98-02 Durango, weights of the vehicles are similar. Cost of Durango shocks is roughly 1/3 the price. I use OME shocks on my CRD, but I am wondering if this is a option for others on a budget.

Stock 1998-2002 Durango Shock for Lifted Libertys
____________Compressed_____Extended
OME 132L:______15.5___________24.8
Durango Stock:__15.4___________24.7
Liberty Stock:____14____________21.9
(Measurements are in inches)

I do need to go to a store, measure, and verify that the mounting is correct.

tommudd wrote:

245-75-16 tires on it and done unless you are also regearing to 4.10s and going larger tires

3. If regeared to 4.10 what do you estimate the largest tire someone could use. (without much trimming/fitting, other than the pinch weld)

4. Is it nessesary to modify the brake lines at all?

For 2006-2007, I know modifications are necessary have to because of the routings in the rear.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:00 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I would like to clairify some information and ask some questions of my own;

tommudd wrote:

two upper rear isolators per side ( 4 total)

1. You mean purchase 4 more upper rear isolators and install 2 to each side. (3 total per side, original one, plus 2 new ones)

tommudd wrote:

OME shocks making sure you get the longer ones not stock length, N132L

2. I have read that you can subsitute OME rear shocks for a stock 98-02 Durango, weights of the vehicles are similar. Cost of Durango shocks is roughly 1/3 the price. I use OME shocks on my CRD, but I am wondering if this is a option for others on a budget.

Stock 1998-2002 Durango Shock for Lifted Libertys
____________Compressed_____Extended
OME 132L:______15.5___________24.8
Durango Stock:__15.4___________24.7
Liberty Stock:____14____________21.9
(Measurements are in inches)

I do need to go to a store, measure, and verify that the mounting is correct.

tommudd wrote:

245-75-16 tires on it and done unless you are also regearing to 4.10s and going larger tires

3. If regeared to 4.10 what do you estimate the largest tire someone could use. (without much trimming/fitting, other than the pinch weld)

4. Is it nessesary to modify the brake lines at all?

For 2006-2007, I know modifications are necessary have to because of the routings in the rear.

Since you have a CRD I would highly recommend that you use only OME shocks and know that you can't lift a CRD as high as a gasser due to the front diff being over more
OME shocks last much better on a CRD than Bilsteins and other cheaper shocks do
Also you may want to think about going to the OME 790 front springs. The OME 927s are rated at 400 lb where the stock CRDs are rated at 410 . The 790s are rated at 500 lb

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 6:25 pm

I am not lifting my CRD, it is already lifted with OME components. I will be lifting my 3.7 Gasser higher than my CRD and that is why I asked the questions numbered 1-4 in my previous post. (though only one of them has a question mark at the end. :oops:

)

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

Thabks for the info! So does the y-link extension offer any benefits.?

Ps is the 3/8th Clevis a lift on the fork of the front strut, like it needs to be adjusted to that much lift or is it a part in itself

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:33 pm

RenKJ wrote:

Thabks for the info! So does the y-link extension offer any benefits.?

Ps is the 3/8th Clevis a lift on the fork of the front strut, like it needs to be adjusted to that much lift or is it a part in itself

Yes the tri link extension helps in that it puts it back into a better angle , without it more wear on the bushings and ball joint on the tri-link.
Clevis lift is moving the front shock up 3/8 of an inch up out of the clevis , JBA sells them or you can use (3) 2 inch conduit nuts available at any hardware store per side

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:34 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I am not lifting my CRD, it is already lifted with OME components. I will be lifting my 3.7 Gasser higher than my CRD and that is why I asked the questions numbered 1-4 in my previous post. (though only one of them has a question mark at the end. :oops:

)

Whoops sorry assumed your CRD my mistake

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:39 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I would like to clairify some information and ask some questions of my own;

tommudd wrote:

two upper rear isolators per side ( 4 total)

1. You mean purchase 4 more upper rear isolators and install 2 to each side. (3 total per side, original one, plus 2 new ones)

YES TWO EXTRA PER SIDE PLUS THE ORIGINAL ONE

tommudd wrote:

OME shocks making sure you get the longer ones not stock length, N132L

2. I have read that you can subsitute OME rear shocks for a stock 98-02 Durango, weights of the vehicles are similar. Cost of Durango shocks is roughly 1/3 the price. I use OME shocks on my CRD, but I am wondering if this is a option for others on a budget.

Stock 1998-2002 Durango Shock for Lifted Libertys
____________Compressed_____Extended
OME 132L:______15.5___________24.8
Durango Stock:__15.4___________24.7
Liberty Stock:____14____________21.9
(Measurements are in inches)

I do need to go to a store, measure, and verify that the mounting is correct.

99-04 DODGE DAKOTA 4WD OR 98-2003 DURANGO PROBLEM IS ON THEM LOWEER MOUNT IS LARGER SO YOU NEED BUSHINGS JBA HAS THEM AT A REASONABLE PRICE

tommudd wrote:

245-75-16 tires on it and done unless you are also regearing to 4.10s and going larger tires

3. If regeared to 4.10 what do you estimate the largest tire someone could use. (without much trimming/fitting, other than the pinch weld)

WITH ABOVE LIFT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO RUN 265-75-16S WHEN RE-GEARED , 245-75-16S DOES GREAT RE-GEARED AS WELL, MORE POWER ETC

4. Is it nessesary to modify the brake lines at all?

For 2006-2007, I know modifications are necessary have to because of the routings in the rear.

LATER MODELS YOU HAVE TO MAKE A BRACKET TO BRING THE LINE DOWN 2.5-3 INCHES

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:14 am

Thank you for the responses Tom.
Time to start buyin' then, :JEEPIN:

bigjimslade · **Joined:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 100

Don't mean to hijack but this seems to be the most recent thread with anything related to my question. The instructions for the JBA Y-Link say that you will be able to adjust the angle on the pinion shaft. I have been burning out u-joints pretty much every year since I lifted. I've been told I may need to adjust my pinion angle (at least I think that's what was said). So is it possible this would fix my problem?

In another thread I read the the Y-Link might actually lift the rear more. How much more? I don't want more height unless it's enough that I could just remove one of the spring isolators to even it out again.

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:08 pm

When you lift without installing the tri-link bracket it will actually be on somewhat of a bind depending on how much you have lifted
In the 2.5-3 inch range not so much as those that go 3.5 -4 inches. But we have noticed that when installing one on a 3.5 and above you do in fact gain maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch due to be bound down before
Yes you can change the pinion angle with the bracket
U-joints going every year? In 213,000 miles I replaced mine at 55,000 , then 185,000 :?:

bigjimslade · **Joined:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 100

tommudd wrote:

U-joints going every year? In 213,000 miles I replaced mine at 55,000 , then 185,000 :?:

I know! I'm pretty sure I posted on here before about this. I seem to be the only one having this issue. I start to get some noise and vibration probably about 8-10K miles into a new one and it just gets worse until I finally get it looked at. Been the U joints 3 times in 4 years. It wouldn't bother me so much but it's not one of the things I know how to change myself. Haven't found a video for that either. I'm going to ask my brother-in-law to do them this time and show me how. Plus I think I'll buy the Y-Link and see if that will help fix it.

Thanks again (and again...).

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

Thanks for all the info guys, I hqve one last question, would i be able to run just the shocks and springs from this list temporarily (a year or so) as a 2.5" lift with thr long travel shocks? Wouldn't i still need to extra bump stop length if I did this? Limiting straps?

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:08 pm

RenKJ wrote:

Thanks for all the info guys, I hqve one last question, would i be able to run just the shocks and springs from this list temporarily (a year or so) as a 2.5" lift with thr long travel shocks? Wouldn't i still need to extra bump stop length if I did this? Limiting straps?

Get the extended shocks for the rear , fronts are all the same of course, ( Ironman of course are longer shocks if going that way, both front and rear )
But yes you can run that way just install bumpstops

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

Ty tommud!

bigjimslade · **Joined:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 100

tommudd wrote:

RenKJ wrote:

Thanks for all the info guys, I hqve one last question, would i be able to run just the shocks and springs from this list temporarily (a year or so) as a 2.5" lift with thr long travel shocks? Wouldn't i still need to extra bump stop length if I did this? Limiting straps?

Get the extended shocks for the rear , fronts are all the same of course, ( Ironman of course are longer shocks if going that way, both front and rear )
But yes you can run that way just install bumpstops

It appears as though the original Bilsteins I used 4 years ago are no longer valid models. So if I decided to stick with Bilstein (to save a few bucks) I'd just be looking at the Heavy Duty Front Shock (or strut according to JBA) and then the 2.5" lift rear shocks? Based on what I'm seeing on the JBA site??? Does anyone have the correct Bilstein model numbers? I have a friend that works for an auto parts company so I might be able to save a few more bucks through him.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:46 pm

bigjimslade wrote:

It appears as though the original Bilsteins I used 4 years ago are no longer valid models. So if I decided to stick with Bilstein (to save a few bucks) I'd just be looking at the Heavy Duty Front Shock (or strut according to JBA) and then the 2.5" lift rear shocks? Based on what I'm seeing on the JBA site??? Does anyone have the correct Bilstein model numbers? I have a friend that works for an auto parts company so I might be able to save a few more bucks through him.

I have the front heavy duty shocks. they ride smoother then you would think. I know bmxer and nam were talking part numbers last week some time, but im having difficulty finding the topic. ill report back if I find it.

Tommunds econolift part numbers

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