pixeldzn wrote:
The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle.
Ahh, I guess that makes sense. I think for the famous liberty-firewall-hole, a hook won't really help much. Maybe the grommet will fit. I think it's too small, but I'll have to see.
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As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket.
From the sound of the instruction page, it doesn't even expect me to solder the jacket at all. I find that sorta strange, but I can believe it. What is weird to me is that I think it wants me to pull the center connector right through the cable and put my solder-blob right at the tip of the connector. That's really strange to me, as every other connector I've soldered, the solder itself doesn't really come near the actual connection.
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I'm pretty well versed in a soldering iron, but I think I may consider the twist-on just so that I don't need to bring a soldering iron out into my jeep (and figure out where to run a really-long extension cord). I'd hate to burn a spot in the carpet or seat from a hot soldering iron.
A related question, when the cable comes disassembled like that, is it for the purpose of running the cable through the firewall, or am I allowed to cut it to length? Pretty sure transmission line length is important for tuning, but if everything is matched, it should be ok with any length I would thing. Anybody have any experience with that?
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Jeff 2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade
4x4, 6spd, Leather, Sunroof, trak-loc, skids/rails, hitch+shackle, hooks, Alpine/iPod, Thule, GPS, CB, Frankenlifted w/ 31" MTRs
Photos Cardomain