LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Help me identify these parts?

The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle.

As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket.

The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247

Do not cut it to length and don't loop it either. With extra, tie it up in a bundle with a zip tie, avoiding any circular loops.

From firestik.com:

Q Is the length of the coax cable important?
A We find that it is very important ... especially with high performance top-loaded antennas. Your safest bet is to use 18 feet (5.5 meters) coaxial leads on all of your CB installations.

Q I only needed 9 feet of coax to go from my radio to my antenna. How should I handle the excess?
A What ever you do, do not roll it into a small convenient coil. It will become an RF choke. If you cannot let it lie loose under a seat or in a headliner, wrap it into a yarn-like skein of about 12 to 16 inches, put a wire tie in the center and tuck it under your dash, seat, etc.

From the sound of the instruction page, it doesn't even expect me to solder the jacket at all. I find that sorta strange, but I can believe it. What is weird to me is that I think it wants me to pull the center connector right through the cable and put my solder-blob right at the tip of the connector. That's really strange to me, as every other connector I've soldered, the solder itself doesn't really come near the actual connection.

Quote:

The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247

I'm pretty well versed in a soldering iron, but I think I may consider the twist-on just so that I don't need to bring a soldering iron out into my jeep (and figure out where to run a really-long extension cord). I'd hate to burn a spot in the carpet or seat from a hot soldering iron.

A related question, when the cable comes disassembled like that, is it for the purpose of running the cable through the firewall, or am I allowed to cut it to length? Pretty sure transmission line length is important for tuning, but if everything is matched, it should be ok with any length I would thing. Anybody have any experience with that?

The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle.

As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket.

The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247

pixeldzn wrote:

That is incorrect on the metal hook. You could use it fer that, but that's not what it is made fer. The small end of the hook clips to the back of yer mic, the big end is to hang it within easy reach. :wink:

Author:	Se7enLC [ Thu May 25, 2006 8:52 am ]
Post subject:	Help me identify these parts?
This is a photo of the CB Antenna Mounting kit that I just got: I can identify the obvious parts, the mount itself, the bag of screws, the cable, the metal bracket, the connector for the cable, the strain relief for the cable. What I can't figure out are: The big metal hook & the little rubber grommet. Any ideas?

Author:	pixeldzn [ Thu May 25, 2006 9:02 am ]
Post subject:
The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle. As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the booty and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket. The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247

Author:	Se7enLC [ Thu May 25, 2006 9:08 am ]
Post subject:
pixeldzn wrote: The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle. Ahh, I guess that makes sense. I think for the famous liberty-firewall-hole, a hook won't really help much. Maybe the grommet will fit. I think it's too small, but I'll have to see. Quote: As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket. From the sound of the instruction page, it doesn't even expect me to solder the jacket at all. I find that sorta strange, but I can believe it. What is weird to me is that I think it wants me to pull the center connector right through the cable and put my solder-blob right at the tip of the connector. That's really strange to me, as every other connector I've soldered, the solder itself doesn't really come near the actual connection. Quote: The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247 I'm pretty well versed in a soldering iron, but I think I may consider the twist-on just so that I don't need to bring a soldering iron out into my jeep (and figure out where to run a really-long extension cord). I'd hate to burn a spot in the carpet or seat from a hot soldering iron. A related question, when the cable comes disassembled like that, is it for the purpose of running the cable through the firewall, or am I allowed to cut it to length? Pretty sure transmission line length is important for tuning, but if everything is matched, it should be ok with any length I would thing. Anybody have any experience with that?

Author:	pixeldzn [ Thu May 25, 2006 11:52 am ]
Post subject:
Do not cut it to length and don't loop it either. With extra, tie it up in a bundle with a zip tie, avoiding any circular loops. From firestik.com: Q Is the length of the coax cable important? A We find that it is very important ... especially with high performance top-loaded antennas. Your safest bet is to use 18 feet (5.5 meters) coaxial leads on all of your CB installations. Q I only needed 9 feet of coax to go from my radio to my antenna. How should I handle the excess? A What ever you do, do not roll it into a small convenient coil. It will become an RF choke. If you cannot let it lie loose under a seat or in a headliner, wrap it into a yarn-like skein of about 12 to 16 inches, put a wire tie in the center and tuck it under your dash, seat, etc.

Author:	Se7enLC [ Thu May 25, 2006 12:15 pm ]
Post subject:
pixeldzn wrote: Do not cut it to length and don't loop it either. With extra, tie it up in a bundle with a zip tie, avoiding any circular loops. From firestik.com: Q Is the length of the coax cable important? A We find that it is very important ... especially with high performance top-loaded antennas. Your safest bet is to use 18 feet (5.5 meters) coaxial leads on all of your CB installations. Q I only needed 9 feet of coax to go from my radio to my antenna. How should I handle the excess? A What ever you do, do not roll it into a small convenient coil. It will become an RF choke. If you cannot let it lie loose under a seat or in a headliner, wrap it into a yarn-like skein of about 12 to 16 inches, put a wire tie in the center and tuck it under your dash, seat, etc. aha, I knew I had read that before somewhere.

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Author:	corwyyn [ Thu May 25, 2006 3:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Se7enLC wrote: From the sound of the instruction page, it doesn't even expect me to solder the jacket at all. I find that sorta strange, but I can believe it. What is weird to me is that I think it wants me to pull the center connector right through the cable and put my solder-blob right at the tip of the connector. That's really strange to me, as every other connector I've soldered, the solder itself doesn't really come near the actual connection. Quote: The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247 I'm pretty well versed in a soldering iron, but I think I may consider the twist-on just so that I don't need to bring a soldering iron out into my jeep (and figure out where to run a really-long extension cord). I'd hate to burn a spot in the carpet or seat from a hot soldering iron. The soldered connectors are a bit of a hassle, but they'll hold up better in the long term. And the ones I have used lately do require soldering the center into the tip from the end - what you want to do is apply solder to the center wire before you put it in the connector, then heat the connector tip until the solder on the wire flows. That avoids the hassle of a big blob on the end of the center. As for the shield it should be soldered as well. Are there some holes around the bottom of the connector where you might apply solder to the shield? Se7enLC wrote: A related question, when the cable comes disassembled like that, is it for the purpose of running the cable through the firewall, or am I allowed to cut it to length? Pretty sure transmission line length is important for tuning, but if everything is matched, it should be ok with any length I would thing. Anybody have any experience with that? I agree with Pxldzn (and what Firestik says). I tried using a cut-to-length section on my initial install and had the devils own time getting it to match. Went out and got the suggested length and it works fine. You COULD go with a shorter length if you had an antenna tuner in-line, but that would be more hassle than you need.

Author:	Edwin [ Thu May 25, 2006 3:43 pm ]
Post subject:
pixeldzn wrote: The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle. As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket. The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247 That is incorrect on the metal hook. You could use it fer that, but that's not what it is made fer. The small end of the hook clips to the back of yer mic, the big end is to hang it within easy reach.

Author:	Se7enLC [ Thu May 25, 2006 7:54 pm ]
Post subject:
Edwin wrote: pixeldzn wrote: The metal hook is for helping you pull the cable thru and the grommet is for any hole you would drill to bring the cable inside the vehicle. As a tip, I would go to radioshack and buy a twist on PL-259 connector. Those solder ones are a pain in the @$#% and take a bit of experience to do from what I have read. You have to flop the insulation over in a certain way, etc. and have a very hot iron, but not melt the jacket. The twist on ones from radioshack work awesome. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103247 That is incorrect on the metal hook. You could use it fer that, but that's not what it is made fer. The small end of the hook clips to the back of yer mic, the big end is to hang it within easy reach. aha, I thought it looked like a familiar hook. Thanks! I have no idea why it came with the antenna mount (you'd think it'd be more likely to come with a CB radio mount). But oh well, I'll still use it!

Author:	Tokyojoe [ Thu May 25, 2006 10:57 pm ]
Post subject:
You are all wrong! That hook is to attach ornaments and hang on your Christmas/Holiday tree.

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