...and not another to continue the oil brouhaha, but I am a huge believer in 4000 miles (6000km) oil changes, P95 filters and synthetic. While I am not envious of the problem, I am envious of the rebuild. I agree the 10 30 seems too light for a diesel...

Are you sure it was 10w30? T6 is 5w40. Syntec also comes in 5w40 as well. I think 0w40 is fine if you have ORM, GDE, or your EGR fell off/welded itself shut mysteriously... 5w40 if you still run your EGR is probably a good idea. I have spoken with many people in person with CRD's who have run 0w40 since new, and still have their EGR enabled. Not saying I agree or would do it myself, but the last guy I spoke with, yesterday, in State College, PA had 140K on his running 0w40. I had spoken with a fellow in Delaware who had around 175K, same story. Regardless, that valve breaking sucks.

My theory on the valve breaking: A sticky valve (for whatever reason) leads to the piston "tapping into" the valve occasionally, which weakens it. Eventually it breaks. I have seen it in some other diesel engines. What causes it? Could be soot, could be a broken glow plug tip (not in your case though), could be overheating of that cylinder from excessive fuel, etc., clogged air filter, etc. Is there any evidence of the valve "kissing" the piston tops on any of the other cylinders that you can see?

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Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

My bad, it is 5-40.... This is the only cylinder that is goobered up. Although number one cylinder has a line in the cylinder, but its not a crack. Its getting replaced anyways. Take a look at this rocker. Lol. Anyways here are some more pictures.

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Mine - RC4+, Eurojet FMIC, GT2056V, 2.5 DP, 2.5" mandrel bent SS Straight thru exhaust, PD130 Intake, Rosten rods, ARL pistons, SBC Stage II Endurance, Gauges, Panzer, PD150 Injectors
Brothers - 02 Jetta TDI
Dads - 01 Jetta TDI
Moms - 05 Jeep Liberty CRD

From my point of view it is a genuine inquiry related to getting facts straight - perhaps done poorly - but aiming at being constructive to your cause regarding this motor. Nothing more. Great photos by the way.....warranting a good hard look especially in that fracture pattern. Thanks heaps. Will try to copy and blow up until they pixelate. The fracture pattern is really interesting in your photos. Did that - the main focal plane becomes the field of carbon behind the stem at the seal. It did show some evidence of a longer term failure underway but I dare not say too much without being flamed. You would no doubt not want this to happen again.

I didn't want to contribute to an oil thing but my understanding is that the two oils you name are a tad conflicting. As others and you have since noted that T6 is 5W-40 and a Heavy Duty oil. I too, am concerned as to how the Syntec in 10W-30 would do in the motor. It is a rather light duty oil but I'm still looking into this as there are specs relevant to North America that differ to the rest of the World. I am aware it is available in other viscosities.

I can't make positive comment about the ratings of the oils until I know where you are and can confirm the specs.
Shell is easy. The Castrol not so straightforward.
This is about possible causes to help you avoid this.
Cheers

[/quote]What is the ACEA rating? Where can I find it? Again we used either rotella t6 or Castrol Syntec, as we have in all of our tdi's.[/quote]

http://lukoil-lubricants.com/info/classification/00007/ Yes, it's a Russian site. Since ACEA is for European auto manufacturers, VM (engine maker) is NOT a member.

There is no consensus among forum members as to what is the best oil for the CRD.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

I like the Mobil turbo diesel 5/40 over 100k and all good .

This was the #3 cylinder, counting front to back?

Could we see a picture of all 16 rocker arms?

Thanks!

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Well, just a report, 700 miles so far and its still running. Lol. It seems to run smoother and quieter.

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Mine - RC4+, Eurojet FMIC, GT2056V, 2.5 DP, 2.5" mandrel bent SS Straight thru exhaust, PD130 Intake, Rosten rods, ARL pistons, SBC Stage II Endurance, Gauges, Panzer, PD150 Injectors
Brothers - 02 Jetta TDI
Dads - 01 Jetta TDI
Moms - 05 Jeep Liberty CRD

Good to hear, @my1998tdi. Glad you got 'er patched back up and on the road again. Best wishes for hundreds of thousands of miles of trouble free motoring.