Timing belt jobs in the NE USA - Need it? In here!

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 16, 2013 11:31 am

I'm in York,PA with a 2006 CRD has 87,000 miles on it now. I know the time is coming for me to do the timing belt. Doubt that I can work it out that you can get to me in this trip but I'd be interested in maybe setting up something if you get nearby again. Let me know!

KCKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:16 pm

I'll put in another + 1 for needed timing belt jobs in Wisconsin. Anybody have other recommendations?

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:16 pm

Do it yourself. Its easy. Get to know your Jeep!

cevans · **Joined:** Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:48 pm **Posts:** 278

geordi completed the TB change on my mother's CRD last week. She said he looks a little worse-for-wear. Lots of hours driving, lots of hours working and not much sleep. Running beautifully now.

Hope you made it home safe!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 12:30 am

cevans wrote:

geordi completed the TB change on my mother's CRD last week. She said he looks a little worse-for-wear. Lots of hours driving, lots of hours working and not much sleep. Running beautifully now.

Hope you made it home safe!

Hey, I think I resemble that remark. :-)r

I just got back to South Florida tonight, I got back to Savannah Saturday evening and took a couple days to just sleep in. I'm glad to have been able to help so many CRD owners and meet so many cool people along the way!

Corey, I actually thought I was fairly put-together while working on your mom's CRD, but I will admit to being a bit tired by the heat on the first day that actually qualified as *hot* of the whole trip. The hotel the night before didn't help much. It was older and expensive... Yet a bit smelly. :lol:

Overall, the weather was fantastic for the entire trip, I couldn't have asked for better conditions.

I learned or refined a few useful tips for the timing belt procedure that might speed things up or make it easier for people who elect to try it themselves:
** The VM pins are really the only special tools that I would strongly suggest that you have on hand. You only need the top two camshaft pins.
** When rotating the engine to install the pins, if the INTAKE pin slots in, then the exhaust pin WILL go right in - however you may need to rock the crank backwards slightly on a worn belt - that is what changes as the belt wears thinner.
** I did not use a crankshaft pin on anyone - If the crankshaft pulley holes are vertical and horizontal, AND the other two pins are in, then the crank is perfectly positioned. Stripe a mark on the top of the pulley above the bolt hole (I used a silver sharpie) and continue working. The flywheel pin hole is guaranteed to be filled with filth, I was never able to get the factory pin to thread in on any CRD I ever tried it with, so on this trip, I didn't worry about not having that pin.
** Vise-grips are GREAT tools to have on hand, as is a little fork-tipped looking screwdriver from Home Depot. Use the Vise Grips to grab and crack loose the exhaust cam cap, especially if it has never been opened before. These are NOT HOLDING PRESSURE, yet from the factory they are cranked shut with the force of an air hammer.
** With the notable exceptions of the 28 ft-lbs for the timing tensioner and 80 ft-lbs for the camshaft pulleys, ALL OTHER BOLTS are to be tightened to the "German" torque spec of "Gudentight" - using your calibrated elbow to a solid 20-30 lb-ft. Smaller bolts (The timing cover bolts) are gudentight using only a 6-inch 1/4" socket wrench, so around 8-10 lbs. Use common sense, don't be a gorilla on any of these. They don't need excessive force.
** The glow plugs SUCK as a job... The #3 is much easier to change if you are also removing the valve cover to do head studs. If you elect to try this without removing the valve cover... I feel your pain, and I pity anyone with sensitive ears that might be nearby when you are doing this.
** Take your time, do it right. Lay out every piece you remove with the bolts that held it on, so that you don't mix any up. There are quite a few bolts that look similar to others, and the length could be VERY important. Case in point: The fan shroud bolts. If these are misplaced and longer ones are used... You could easily crack the plastic radiator ends, and RUIN your day. I managed to do 2 head stud jobs (with belts) and 3 other belt jobs (2 with glow plugs) and only had ONE leftover bolt that remains unidentified. Yeah, that one irritates me b/c I was trying to be so careful.

The biggest tip... Don't try to schedule so many of these, so close (in time) together and so far (geographically) apart! I was quite sore from leaning over so many CRD motors, and I think I don't need to work out again for quite some time. :banghead:

This last tip is really aimed back at me... I did this to myself on the scheduling. I wouldn't have missed this trip or the opportunity to meet and help so many, but I think I will plan the next trip to be a little slower-paced. :SOMBRERO:

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:01 am

geordi wrote:

** With the notable exceptions of the 28 ft-lbs for the timing tensioner and 80 ft-lbs for the camshaft pulleys, ALL OTHER BOLTS are to be tightened to the "German" torque spec of "Gudentight" - using your calibrated elbow to a solid 20-30 lb-ft.

Awesome term

I'm going to have to use that.

I have a day (weekend?) trip waiting for you in Atlanta when you back and your psyche are feeling up to it; sometime in the next few months (before I hit 100 on the clock).

Based on the experiences you just went through, what's a good time estimate for a belt, water pump, lower hose (the one that you can't get to otherwise), ARP studs, glow plugs, and intake "throttle" assembly?

Dan

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:36 am

dgeist wrote:

geordi wrote:

** With the notable exceptions of the 28 ft-lbs for the timing tensioner and 80 ft-lbs for the camshaft pulleys, ALL OTHER BOLTS are to be tightened to the "German" torque spec of "Gudentight" - using your calibrated elbow to a solid 20-30 lb-ft.

Awesome term

I'm going to have to use that.

I have a day (weekend?) trip waiting for you in Atlanta when you back and your psyche are feeling up to it; sometime in the next few months (before I hit 100 on the clock).

Based on the experiences you just went through, what's a good time estimate for a belt, water pump, lower hose (the one that you can't get to otherwise), ARP studs, glow plugs, and intake "throttle" assembly?

Dan

Hey Dan, my schedule is (as always) open until it isn't... So I am at your disposal when you would like to do the job.

Lower hose - You mean on the water pump? I only typically replace the front half of the pump, so I'm not sure what else that would involve. Is yours leaking?
Otherwise, it sounds like you are looking at about 13 hours - solidly 2 days. The head studs themselves aren't that bad to do, once the top is off. That is the rough part. I'm assuming you want to remove the flapper from the FCV - that shouldn't be more than 30 minutes or so, I don't usually pull the FCV when doing the head studs, but we can certainly do that on yours.

I'll take this to PM, and we can discuss the specifics, and I'll send you my phone number.
--Jim

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:42 pm

I "BELIEVE" he is talking about the Lower Radiator hose.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:48 pm

Hexus wrote:

I "BELIEVE" he is talking about the Lower Radiator hose.

Is it tricky to get to if you're not working on the water pump area? If so, then you're right. I just have Swiss cheese memory and not enough time to scan the forum to find things these days.

Dan

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:16 pm

I think he's talking of the small "L" shaped lower hose on the back of the half pump (and I'd say geordi got it right) that we usually leave on the car. All others are not too bad to replace.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:45 pm

I haven't found anybody's hoses that were actually leaking right behind the water pump, but for a small leak (top off once a month or so) that sounds like the water pump itself.

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:24 pm

Just want to say thanks again to Geordi for coming up to Boston! My CRD is running great and I really appreciate him taking the time (both before and after) to answer any questions/concerns I had. you rock! :rockon:

JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Oct 21, 2013 6:35 pm

Do you ever make it down to Tampa?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:17 pm

I'm over on the East Coast of Florida at the moment, back in Boca working on a house renovation. I'd be happy to drive across to Tampa if you need a timing belt done!

Right now, it looks like I may be heading up to the Wilmington, De area (and possibly further up) in the next couple weeks to help another CRD owner out... So if you missed out on the last trip, NOW is the time to think about this!

Mikey1273: Check your PMs.

--Jim

Timing belt jobs in the NE USA - Need it? In here!

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