Stalling at stops (fixed by shifting into Neutral) (TC ?)

M06Man · **Joined:** Fri May 16, 2014 3:47 pm **Posts:** 5

Hello all,

So recently my 06 CRD has been acting up with its stalling at stop signs and intersections. Typically this occurs shortly after startup or in city only driving situations. Get her on the highway for a while and then come to a stop leads to no problems. Prior to stalling the RPM dances around a little, and a fast shift into Neutral stabilizes things enough to prevent a stall. Then once back in drive you can continue on like nothing happened.

Now here are a few things I am thinking may be contributing:

1) The stock TC is failing (really hoping this isn’t it). But the stalls can occur when its placed under a load after going up a hill (and we have some pretty large hills in Newfoundland). Reason I think this may be the cause is is the occasional shutter at 30 - 40 km/h (20-25 mph) when coming to a stop.

2) Fuel problems? I don’t have an inline lift and park on a hill, and drive up plenty of hills. Is it perhaps possible that the pressure in the line is not being maintained adequately?

3) Clutch packs: It sometimes feels sluggish before stalling, and it misses a downshift at times it feels like, hence leading to the stalls. Is it possible that the packs are worn out and leading to this behaviour?

4) Clogged EGR? The vehicle is stock, no tunes or modifications. Was looking into a GDE tune, but I understand that may be temporary shutdown? Also I rather not put the money into that if the transmission is in a sorry state.

Thanks in advance, there are not many (if any) other CRD in this province that I am aware of, and hence most mechanics out here in Newfoundland look at it and scratch their head. That and the one decent diesel guy I found takes over a month to get around to even glow plugs. More or less just curious if anyone encountered the stalling, and had that rectified by a shift to N. Also there is one code present: P1189 (I believe this is the sensor on the right side of the air box and is merely loose intermediately)

Milage: 203,000 miles (327,000 km) so getting up there.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 4:09 pm

This is a common problem on the Jeep CRD when the front pump in the transmission gets worn. Some of the plungers in the front pump wear out and stick thus not releasing the torque converter lockup oil pressure which stalls the engine shortly after a cold start and driving a few hundred feet and trying to stop the vehicle. Mine did the same thing before replacing the front pump assembly and installing a new torque converter (SunCoast) while the transmission was out.
Note: The new replacement front pumps are a new updated improved style.
If you pull your transmission to install the new updated style of front oil pump, replace the torque converter at the same time while you got it out.
Most install a TransGo Kit at the same time to improve shifts and increase transmission oil line pressure.

See this wrote:

Transmission front pump 68009879AB (RL009879AE)
Severe wear of the TC limit valve bore in the front pump housing results in loss of converter release oil pressure. Reduced release pressure at low speed and idle can drag the converter linings, causing engine surge, pulsation or stall.
The torque converter limit valve spring in the 45RFE, 545RFE front pump can often break. This valve limits converter release pressure. A broken spring can cause the valve to become stuck and result in converter clutch release issues including engine stalls at low speeds.
Chrysler vehicles equipped with 45RFE, 545RFE and 68RFE transmissions often experience TCC related troubles. These may or may not include trouble codes accompanied by TC clutch slip, no lockup, overheating and / or loss of fuel economy. In some cases, the TC clutches may be unable to release TC lockup, resulting in improper lockup functions and / or complete engine stalling. Problems such as these can be caused by excess wear in the TCC switch valve bore, which allows vital control pressure to escape the circuit. Replacing the complete transmission oil pump assembly with a new updated assembly or reconditioning the bores with the proper tools and installing an oversized TCC switch valve kit can restore crucial clearances for renewed TCC control and operation.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 5:44 pm

Definitely the transmission pump.
My solution has been to start the engine, let it idle in neutral for a full minute, then put it in gear.
This allows the fluid to get pumped up through everything in the transmission.

And of course, check your fluid level while idling.
It should be above the full “hot” mark, even when cold.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:34 am

Agree, but it sounds like you have problems more than just a few minutes after engine startup. If thats the case sounds like you are ready for a new Torque converter and front pump at least. If you haven't tried changing or at least looking at transmission fluid /filters in a while like 25,000 miles or so and only use ATF4 fluid you could try this but if you do I would go ahead and put in a drain in transmission pan to make things easier in the future. If this helps a lot but doesn't cure it you might want to try changing just the fluid again within a few miles to change out more fluid that was in Torque converter or do a true flush (not what a lot of lube places etc say is a flush.

Stalling at stops (fixed by shifting into Neutral) (TC ?)

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