guide for shopping for a used crd

nickademus · **Joined:** Mon May 09, 2011 2:15 pm **Posts:** 54

looking at buying one in the next week or so...
what should i be looking for, and looking out for?

Thanks boys and girls.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat May 14, 2011 3:25 pm

Read thru Sams Noob Guide. Other than the stock used car stuff (tires, brakes, battery, suspension, body, CarFax history, etc) check for 2nd gen OEM fuel filter head (right side fuel heater plug should be blue and the same size as the other plug $100 expense, but that gets you a new fuel filter too, if it has 1st gen unless it has a Racor or some other after market); if the to/from intercooler hoses are not silicone Samcos or 2n gen OEM check carefully for excessive oil on the outside especially the turbo to intercooler and for tears (best done with hoses removed - set of Samcos ca. $260); reach down along the airbox to turbo hose and tug forcefully where that hose connects to the turbo to check for a rip ($60 DYI fix); cupped front tires = front struts are gone but don't know cost; a 2005 1 owner vehicle under 70k miles has a factory 7/70 warranty that can be transferred for ca. $100; have a Jeep dealer or Autozone pull any stored codes (many code readers won't read CRD codes); make darn sure oil is diesel grade Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella (if not be sure factor in an immediate oil change); same for antifreeze (HOAT only - Zerez G-05) and ATF fluid (ATF+4 only); if near or above 100k miles AND the timing belt service has not been done figure $1,500 to have it done if you can find a good mechanic or ca. $750 for DYI; GDE engine and transmission tunes are wonderful to have if they come with the package; take a test drive starting from a DEAD cold engine (don't let them push you to take a test drive on a warmed up vehicle as there are things that will hide like hard starting/rough idle) and drive long enough to bring the temp up to full operating (needle dead vertical or 1/2 to 1 tick left of vertical; in 80 degree weather should take only 3 miles or so; if the gauge stalls below those marks the tstat is bad; $125 DYI); during the test drive give it the gun to make sure the turbo spools up (should be little trubo lag) keep in mind that this may produce a black smoke cloud behind you but not one you cannot see through; make sure each of the 4 wheel drive settings engage (DO NOT try to engage 4 wheel low at speed; test that in a parking lot at idle; dash should show what mode you are in). Happy hunting.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat May 14, 2011 8:10 pm

Find a member here selling one. Those who are members here generally know how to take care of their CRDs and when they sell them, you know you are getting one with good history.

bhc04 · **Posted:** Sat May 14, 2011 10:31 pm

nickademus wrote:

looking at buying one in the next week or so...
what should i be looking for, and looking out for?

Thanks boys and girls.

Were are you looking?

nickademus · **Joined:** Mon May 09, 2011 2:15 pm **Posts:** 54

edmonton alberta area.

there are a few on kijiji lately..

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue May 17, 2011 6:00 pm

Ah, you're in Canada so expect to pay double for any items listed above. Also, no one mentioned that you will require a glow plug "upgrade" (about CAD1000) and also the window regulators will all eventually break (about CAD400 each). Make sure you fully understand what you are getting into as far as maintenance costs are concerned. The CRD is the most unreliable money pit I've ever owned and the dealerships will screw you over big time for parts, especially this side of the border. If I were you I wouldn't go anywhere near.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

In addition to what was previously posted, if the following wasn't on the vehicle, I would pass unless it had less than 20k miles on it.

1. Provent crank case ventilation filter installed or elephant hose mod.
2. Lift pump, either inline or in tank.
3. A GDE eco tune with EGR function corrected would also be a big bonus.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Wed May 18, 2011 1:15 am

dirtmover wrote:

Ah, you're in Canada so expect to pay double for any items listed above. Also, no one mentioned that you will require a glow plug "upgrade" (about CAD1000) and also the window regulators will all eventually break (about CAD400 each). Make sure you fully understand what you are getting into as far as maintenance costs are concerned. The CRD is the most unreliable money pit I've ever owned and the dealerships will screw you over big time for parts, especially this side of the border. If I were you I wouldn't go anywhere near.

Only if you buy parts at the stealership. I order most of my parts from the US and either have them shipped to me or delivered close to the border and take a trip to pick them up.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed May 18, 2011 8:35 am

Why would anyone, out of warranty, go to a dealer for window regulator repair? All you get is an expensive replacement, sometimes including glass, with the same piece of s... plastic part. http://www.steigerperformance.com/ has a metal part replacement for ca. $80-90, depending on model year and regulator style, US + shipping per window that takes about 45 minutes per window to install.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed May 18, 2011 3:07 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Why would anyone, out of warranty, go to a dealer for window regulator repair?

Well, believe it or not, the vast majority of owners don't maintain their own vehicles. They will either go to the dealer to get raped or an independent mechanic who will source the parts from the dealer. The odd few may do some research and buy the Steiger parts for their mechanic to install

papaindigo wrote:

All you get is an expensive replacement, sometimes including glass, with the same piece of s... plastic part.

Agreed, the OEM parts are a complete design abortion which is why I fabricated my own replacement sliders out of some steel plate and delrin that I had lying around and expect them to outlast the vehicle.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu May 19, 2011 8:01 am

Drewd wrote:

In addition to what was previously posted, if the following wasn't on the vehicle, I would pass unless it had less than 20k miles on it.

1. Provent crank case ventilation filter installed or elephant hose mod.

Provent oil sperators can plug up and bled pressure out the vent in cold weather. That happened to me last winter so I took it off and would definetly not have one in Canada during the winter. If the provent is not kept warm expect this to happen :SOMBRERO:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu May 19, 2011 8:01 am

Opps! double post :!:

nickademus · **Joined:** Mon May 09, 2011 2:15 pm **Posts:** 54

dirtmover wrote:

Ah, you're in Canada so expect to pay double for any items listed above. Also, no one mentioned that you will require a glow plug "upgrade" (about CAD1000) and also the window regulators will all eventually break (about CAD400 each). Make sure you fully understand what you are getting into as far as maintenance costs are concerned. The CRD is the most unreliable money pit I've ever owned and the dealerships will screw you over big time for parts, especially this side of the border. If I were you I wouldn't go anywhere near.

anyone have more info on this "upgrade?"

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri May 20, 2011 10:56 am

Metal replacements for ceramic glow plugs uses slightly less voltage than the ceramics and requires an ECU flash or update of the GDE flash but the metals won't break. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56696&p=631334&hilit=p1267#p631334 for how to on replacement and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=58806&hilit=glow+plug for details on the upgrade

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Here is another check I recommend a potential buyer to perform that is based on problems I'm having.

With vehicle completely warmed up (about 1-2 needle widths below the 1/2 mark on the temp guage), accelerate at full throttle from a stop to 70mph. Ensure shifts are clean and no check engine light occurs. If you get a CEL at full accleration, walk away or pull the code and if it is a P00093-low fuel rail pressure, then realize you may have a very expensive repair.

nickademus · **Joined:** Mon May 09, 2011 2:15 pm **Posts:** 54

anyway to tell visually if they have the dreaded F37 TCM?

sidebrake · **Posted:** Tue May 24, 2011 5:13 pm

If the dealer did what they were supposed to, there will be a sticker under the hood on the right side (forward of fuse/relay box) indicating the F37 was performed. It's not a sure bet though... A friend of mine has the sticker but the dealer didn't actually perform the TCM flash.

The best way to check is to pay attention to at what speed/RPM the tranmission shifts into 5th. There is a thread about it in the Tech Section.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 24, 2011 5:32 pm

No need to shop around for the answer. With engine warmed up run the CRD up to an indicated 55mph; gradually accelerate noting the next "shift" point (ca. 58mph vs. 62mph). If it's about 58mph your TCM does NOT have the F-37 flash, if it's 62-63mph your TCM has the F-37 flash. If it's the latter the GDE has the fix.

nickademus · **Joined:** Mon May 09, 2011 2:15 pm **Posts:** 54

all great info, i i found one in my area that was garage kept, and has 44,000 KM on it.

I read the noob guide, i promise!

Question about the GDE tunes, am i correct in my assumption that the GDE tune keeps the EGR closed, thus negating the need for the offroad mod, or the SEGR?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2011 10:57 am

The GDE tune does not completely shut off the EGR but is does drastically reduce it's operation. I'll defer to others on whether there is further benefit from a SEGR installation, I'm inclined to doubt it, or the elephant hose/Provent mod, may be some benefit to keeping oil out of the air going into the turbo system.

guide for shopping for a used crd

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