Limits of V6 Airbox/Stock Panel Filter

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2007 2:17 pm

Wasn't that a 2.5L engine?

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:22 pm

We could still upgrade the stock CAC with a "more efficient" model...even if the size stays the same...but it would be expensive for a "one-off" and as stated above, the stock (albeit plastic tanks) might be all we need. Space is at a premium so it would be very difficult to relocate much in the AC/CAC/Radiator area.

I have a "custom" (coraplast trailer park) air intake setup I am working on slowly. Mileage is up but I think off the line speed suffers a bit...with a straight thru 3" catback...no muffler...system I built, the midrange and highend power "feels" better.

I think in the near futre, someoneor many of us will come up with a "combination" that works with this little locomotive.

InMotion Tuning, SEGR, Suncoast TC/Shiftkit, 3" CatBack, Custom Air Intake, CAC Upgrade, ect...something will work :idea:

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

brew1 wrote:

I'm up late thinking about mods.

Interesting discussion you have here, especially for someone such as myself that is considering adding the V6 airbox.

Just a couple questions. Wouldn't a K&N filter flow more air than your paper element filters? Over on the TDI side, the K&N is shunned by many that are of the opinion that the K&N doesn't filter as well as a paper element and also kills the MAF, usually when folks don't read the directions and over oil the filter. None of the K&N haters I know of would dispute that it flows more air.

Second question. Even if the V6 airbox with whatever filter and modification you make to it, flows more air, will the intercooler be able to keep up with the increased airflow or will heat soak be an issue and require an intercooler upgrade?

When I install the v6 air box I remove the 90 degree snokel to diminish the air restriction that the snokel wound it give. I took a metal grill off an old air filter
and install it on the rectagular hole. CRD work great like that.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 08, 2007 6:55 pm

Only problem with that, nc, is drawing heated underhood air in slow traffic - the inlet needs to be in a source of always cool air - put a temp sensor in the air box to get a sense of the problem - can use the Fluke TC probe - be nice if the ScanGageII would read airbox temp, as well as MAP temp

FYI, folks - the '07 KJ's have the JEEP airbox cover

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

I'm loath to cut a hole in the fender of my jeep, but it seems more and more as if the ultimate solution here is a snorkel.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:29 pm

Quote:

I'm loath to cut a hole in the fender of my jeep, but it seems more and more as if the ultimate solution here is a snorkel.

It would be much easier to install a restriction gauge in your air box. After install you can see if you really need that snorkel. You might be surprised.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

gmctd wrote:

Only problem with that, nc, is drawing heated underhood air in slow traffic - the inlet needs to be in a source of always cool air - put a temp sensor in the air box to get a sense of the problem - can use the Fluke TC probe - be nice if the ScanGageII would read airbox temp, as well as MAP temp

FYI, folks - the '07 KJ's have the JEEP airbox cover

That is a good Idea will use my temp sensor from my meter to see is air is hot. What temp the air should be for the CRD to work eficiently?.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Nov 09, 2007 11:39 pm

That Airbox temp should always be ~ambient, engine running - take the measurements after killing the engine in summer heat after burning the ac for a real shocker.

Normal underhood heat is ~150deg when vehicle is moving forward at traffic speed - increases drastically at stop, due to exhaust heat from the manifold and the turbo, EGT's ~300deg at idle - underhood heat is easily up to ~300deg in summer traffic with a\c burning - winter temps will be much cooler, even with EGT's ~300deg

Air from the radiator blast is usually ~180deg, can get hotter but doesn't compare to the radiated exhaust heat.

That is why the Diesel inlet is plumbed right up thru the radiator bulkhead, where the air source will always be coolest, very near ambient with 150deg driving heat or ~300deg idleing heat.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Nov 09, 2007 11:49 pm

Need some exhaust manifold coatings...turbo blanket...upgraded Intercooler w/ coating

palla · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:29 am

I have a snorkel & have noticed a dramatic reduction in the amount of crap that gets caught in it, especially road dust that gets stirred up from vehicles in front. In the past I could hardly go between services without feeling I need to change the filter as it was black as the ace of spades. now im wondering when I should change it out as it stays clean for ages. I get the ususal bugs & stuff but no blackness or dampness when it rains. prolly the best mod ive done to the KJ.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

palla wrote:

I have a snorkel & have noticed a dramatic reduction in the amount of crap that gets caught in it, especially road dust that gets stirred up from vehicles in front. In the past I could hardly go between services without feeling I need to change the filter as it was black as the ace of spades. now im wondering when I should change it out as it stays clean for ages. I get the ususal bugs & stuff but no blackness or dampness when it rains. prolly the best mod ive done to the KJ.

Glad to hear that-- I take it you mean the Airflow snorkel and not the V6 airbox that is sometimes called "a snorkel". I am looking forward to putting my Airflow on as I am tired of stopping to bang the dirt out of the filter (change the filter, etc). I will say those Amsoil air filters with the nanofiber filament are tough buggers and I do not see dirt getting past them (I suppose I would need an oil test to know for sure).

As for what Darby said,I know someone wrapped the CAC hoses in header tape they had laying around but I don't remember what the result was. I know my Scanguage reads the intake temp and it is usually around 20-30 degrees warmer than the outside temp. It really suffers when offroading or in slow and go-- it will spike much higher then. As gmctd mentioned turning off the AC helps then. When the temp goes over 110 outside you don't want to know what the air intake temp sitting in traffic is (even with ORM). You can feel a massive power loss then.

I am still of the opinion that hood louvers (especially one over the turbo venting its residual heat) would drastically lower the underhood temp and would improve the air intake, and fuel temp; as well as increase the lifespan of every electrical wire and rubber doodad in the engine compartment.

palla · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2007 4:42 pm

Yes the Airflow snorkel, is what I have.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:48 pm

I am thinking a "turbo blanket" will cut out a lot of the underhood heat...

You could test the hood vent idea without any cutting at all...open the hood and pull the weather stripping on the rear cowl...it will let air out against your windshield...it just pushes back on also. Then take temps on and off.

Limits of V6 Airbox/Stock Panel Filter

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