Going to look at a CRD... what issues to look out for?

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:25 pm

H... GFS is in no way even remotely similar to a Frybrid system. If I were going to purchase a turnr-key system for the CRD it would be the Frybrid or the Vegieram built by Dino fuel alternatives, the same company that makes the vegiestroke.

vegiH · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:36 pm

My bad I meant GREASEL,I own a Vegistroke they rock,I has been talking to some guys about putting a V-3 on my CRD,that would be great to have auto-switch over on that as well.Cosmo were you the person that inquired about my install disk before the site crash?If ya are let me know and I'll ship it out.I put up a firewall after the crash,so i lost a lot of info

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 9:42 am

Thought I'd give you guys an update. This place was as shady as I expected lol. The lot was all of about 12 cars and the "office" was a construction trailer at one end. I get there and they tell me they moved it to another of their lots down the road. I show up there and they tell me they've never had a diesel Liberty. I'm like WTF so I call the 800 number again and they tell me it's at their third lot and give me the address. I pry the direct phone number out of them and call the third lot instead of driving there. They tell me they sold it the night before. Oh well, probably for the best.

I found another one nearby. It's $8k but has 114k miles on it and doesn't look that great inside and under the hood. Do you guys think this is a decent deal? I know with diesel engines the difference between 50k miles and 114k isn't a big deal but I don't know how well the Liberty chassis and drivetrain hold up over time. Here's the ad: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=256202143&dealer_id=57490522&car_year=2005&model=LIBERTY&make2=&start_year=1981&mod_bookmark_id=20287598&mod_bookmark_id=20287598&engine=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&certified=&fuel=Diesel&search_type=both&distance=0&first_record=26&make=JEEP&color=&keywords_display=&min_price=&incremental=All&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&lastExec=1229601923000&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=44212&advanced=y&end_year=2008&pager.offset=25&transmission=&doors=&max_price=13000&cardist=112

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:06 am

AT that point the maintenance history is very very important.
the Diesel engine well maintained can probably go 500K - but the key is maintained.
(Michelin's are a good sign)

At 100K miles - it needed the timing belt replaced - if this wasn't done - or if done incorrectly it can be a major problem later.
you can read Sonix problems in his threads on rebuilding an engine

and if they didn't have EHM or Provent - the intake may have a significant oil coating

if they were towing - the factory torque converter may have problems even with the F37

also by then you'll probably need U joints/CV joints - possible upper/lower ball joints - normal Jeep wear items - not CRD specific

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:10 am

Can the intake oil coating be cleaned with some seafoam or something? And what's F37? Code for trans cooler? Thanks.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

Ukraine Train wrote:

Can the intake oil coating be cleaned with some seafoam or something? And what's F37? Code for trans cooler? Thanks.

For 8K I would buy it if the inside is in good condition. If you buy one with less milege it would cost you about 14 to 16K anyway
so to put it in condition yourself it would not cost you no more than 2K so if I were you and have the money and the knowlage;Go for it.

nescosmo.......

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:34 pm

My friend just went to test drive this thing. The dealer killed the battery trying to get it to start. It's cold in Detroit right now so I'm not sure if they didn't let the glow plugs warm up or if the battery is on its way out or if there's some other problem. They jumped it to get it to start and then it ran ok. He ran it for about 40 minutes and the heat never really got hot, just kind of warm. Maybe low coolant or plugged heater core? Also, the seats were stained although the dealer said they'll try to clean them up (I'll make sure they're not stained from veggie oil). I'm willing to put some work into this thing so maybe I can beat them up on the price. I might go check it out this weekend.

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:15 pm

Ukraine Train wrote:

My friend just went to test drive this thing. The dealer killed the battery trying to get it to start. It's cold in Detroit right now so I'm not sure if they didn't let the glow plugs warm up or if the battery is on its way out or if there's some other problem. They jumped it to get it to start and then it ran ok. He ran it for about 40 minutes and the heat never really got hot, just kind of warm. Maybe low coolant or plugged heater core? Also, the seats were stained although the dealer said they'll try to clean them up (I'll make sure they're not stained from veggie oil). I'm willing to put some work into this thing so maybe I can beat them up on the price. I might go check it out this weekend.

They may just have a weak battery as the glow plugs heat very quickly in this engine. Even at the coldest so far this year (zero F), my glow plug light comes on for maybe a second and starts without a problem even with the block heater disconnected. And in this weather without the radiator blocked, you will not get much action out of the temperature gauge.

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 6:27 pm

Do you guys think getting that '05 with 114k would be a smart move? I'd trade in or sell my daily driver '02 Sentra with 89k on it for about $5000 and my '01 Cherokee with 155k for about $3000. I feel kinda reluctant to end up with a daily driver that has more miles than my current one but the Libby is newer and it would let me consolidate two cars to one. That's one less car to insure, maintain, and register (just spent $180 to register two cars and a trailer - ugh).

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:32 pm

I would be hesitant to initially get rid of both
once you had the CRD and you could establish the condition, fix anything that was a concern
so I'd get rid of 1 now - do any updates needed on the CRD and then get rid of the other, gives you a spare
(but is a cash flow issue)

The F37 was Chrysler's recall detuning the diesel so that the torque converter would survive through warranty - it was cheaper than fixing the converter.
the properly fixed converter is called the Suncoast ~$700 and normally folks upgrade the pump ~$250 and add a shift kit ~$60 as a fix - so if the TC's having problems - it can be fixed but expect $1000 in parts + labor.

No one's cleaned an intake (without tearing it apart) - however the EHM or Provent will stop it from getting worse

as to the nonstart- if it has the original battery it's on it's last legs - a new Optima is ~$180 - however unless you're going offroad or adding a winch you can probably use a lead acid.

If you were trying to get it to warm up by idling - won't happen - doesn't make enough heat - it has to be driving - however driving you should be having warm air within a mile, if it didn't - then you might be looking at a thermostat or a viscous heater (looks like an AC compressor but exists only to warm the engine)

So I'm back to my original statement - maintenance records

(if you have a friend at a Dealer - you can get a 'vip' report - shows everything ever done to that vin.
without friends all they'll say is any outstanding recalls)

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:30 pm

How can I tell if the F37 has been performed? Is the torque converter failure a pretty sure bet? What are its symptoms? I really like these trucks but getting a newer car and then dumping a grand into it just to make it reliable seems counter intuitive.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:50 pm

check the F37 - go to Jeep.com and type in the last 8 digits of the VIN - if there are any outstanding recalls - they'll show up
(you might be able to look under the hood and see if they put a sticker on it)

If you tow - or have a power chip - the converter is a real reliability concern.
just driving - I don't know.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:44 pm

Price is right. Miles indicate a lot of highway that is better. Keep the XJ for backup as you'll not get much for it just now anyhow. Diesels run cool and you'll not melt the soles on your shoes under the best of conditions. F37 has most likely been done as the TC's on the 05 and early 06 ones failed real early if it was not done. All US crd's made before November 05 got replacement TC's with one less prone to failure along with the software flash. If there was a noise the tech could hear then the front pump used on 07 and later ones was put on along with a new AC condenser/transmission cooler too.

As another pointed out ANY car with that many miles is going to need some TLC but it could have a lot of good miles left in it :lol:

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:02 pm

The Jeep site indicates that there aren't any outstanding recalls. Where can I search the recalls that Jeep had? The NHTSA site doesn't show anything about torque converters. The three recalls it shows are for ball joints, parking pawls, and headlamps.

I found another Jeep almost the same as the previous one, only black, and they're close to each other. Also $8k, 112k on it. I'm going to go look at both this weekend.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?c ... ardist=113

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:24 pm

Man, I think I'm talking myself out of a CRD. The comments here aren't exactly confidence inspiring: http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/a ... 22231.html

Though to be fair, most of the time when people are vocal about their experience with something it's because it's a bad one.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:59 pm

I note the last poster recommended joining LOST.

and some people have had all of those problems - however even when the EGR issues were the worse - in 06 - before ULSD came along - we'd do polls and 2/3 of folks did not have a problem.
(the Sulfer and an initial bad batch of EGRs made things worse)

The percentage is lower than that on the Tranny and air leaks, but if you had a problem - the dealer didn't know how to fix it.

The single biggest issue you will have with the CRD is that there are very few techs who know anything about them.
therefore minor trivial issues - like the fuel head leaks - get turned into major replace all parts shotgun approaches because they don't know the system, they don't know how to troubleshoot and there are no codes.
and it was all under warranty - so the dealerships that cared threw parts at it - the dealerships that didn't found some way to blame the customer.

So the solution is - you have to know how to work on it - at that point - the fixes are here - they're documented and most are fairly easy for a weekend mechanic.

If you need the fixes - frankly some folks do not have problems - they just drive.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:53 pm

Ukraine
The best place to start in terms of a new vehicle - is what do you really need?
because where the CRD is good - there is nothing else in it's class
but if you're not using it's abilities it can be a lot of trouble.

I mean if you just driving to/from work ~ 50-100 miles a week and an occasional offroad trail
or just need the 4x4 for snow - I'd vote that you're better off with a gasser
and I'd be looking at Wranglers

The CRD works better if you're running 100 miles/day
and you need space to carry tools/samples
or you regularly pull at 5000lb trailer
you can easily make biodiesel (or a ready supply of french fry oil)

(or you just like working on oddball vehicles)

a couple of those would still work well with a Mercedes or VW diesel.
If you really need a Liberty size and diesel torque/mileage - it's the only thing available
but the question is - what do you need in a vehicle.
Decide that first - before you decide on the vehicle.

Uffe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:39 am

Ukraine Train wrote:

Man, I think I'm talking myself out of a CRD. The comments here aren't exactly confidence inspiring: http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/a ... 22231.html

Though to be fair, most of the time when people are vocal about their experience with something it's because it's a bad one.

Use them to punch the dealer into a lower price, if you still think about the libby.

Otherwise, if you just want a vehicle why would you want a libby in the first place? Get a normal car perhaps a second-hand VW TDI, that'll last a very long time.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:57 am

ATXKJ wrote:

I mean if you just driving to/from work ~ 50-100 miles a week and an occasional offroad trail
or just need the 4x4 for snow - I'd vote that you're better off with a gasser
and I'd be looking at Wranglers

SACRILIGE!!! A pox on you for spreading such blasphamy.

Ukraine Train · **Posted:** Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:21 am

The reason I want a small diesel truck (The Liberty is about the only one) is for the fuel economy and occasional need for the utility all in one vehicle. I drive 50mi/day for work and occasionally pull a 2500lb trailer with ATV's, go camping, haul tools and car parts, and go mild off roading. The work commute in winter would be easier too. Plus I just like the novelty of having a diesel.

Going to look at a CRD... what issues to look out for?

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