oil leak from under turbo in 05 sport

Rixram · **Posted:** Fri May 13, 2016 11:49 am

bigkahuna wrote:

I may have this same issue. I bought a CRD a month ago and then 5 days later found a leak that I believed to be a leaky drain plug. After an oil and plug change I found more leaks. Took it to the local shop and he says it's from the oil return on the turbo. He's never worked on a CRD so that's all he can tell me for now. Is this a big deal or just the replacement of a hose or two?

First off, this thread is reeeeeaaaaaly old, so some of the members may not be still on LOST.

Next:
On the underside of the turbocharger are two 8mm bolts (8 or 10mm) that hold the oil return line on. There is not other more apropos way to describe working on them as "one of the biggest pains in the butt you will ever deal with on your KJ". Order the replacement gaskets from IDParts, and I urge you to consider getting the oil turbo down pipe/oil return line for a 2006 and retrofit it in. Used ones from eBay are almost always fine. YMMV.

Use eye protection, because you are GOING to get a lot of crap dropped in your face.
-You will need to lay in-line with your vehicle. This sounds stupid, but if working perpendicular, I find it much harder to deal with access.
-You'll need to use 1/4" drive at the end of your god-awful collection of extensions. Then have a 1-2" extension attached to your 8mm (10mm?) socket.
-After that 2" extension, use a swivel joint, BUT wrap it in electrical tape so I can move when intended, but it doesn't flop all about.
-Mix and match your extensions until you have enough length to reach the 2 offending bolts on the turbo bottom.
-You will likely have an easier time if you uncouple the turbo exhaust line and move it aside and also disconnect and remove the turbo support bracket.
-Drink some alcohol so you have a tad more patience, but not too much. The reason why is because this is gonna suck. Try to enjoy your next few hours, and wear mechanix gloves, lest you decide to test if those metal outcroppings are stronger than your skin is.

Oh, also, I have big hands, so I have to find interesting ways to get into tight spots. You may have gathered that.

Note: the oil return for the 2005 is a hard line, while the return for a 2006 has a small flex joint in it. The flex joint really makes a good difference.

Maybe racertracer can post the photos we took of the Frankenstein socket extension we use.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri May 13, 2016 11:53 am

bigkahuna wrote:

I may have this same issue. I bought a CRD a month ago and then 5 days later found a leak that I believed to be a leaky drain plug. After an oil and plug change I found more leaks. Took it to the local shop and he says it's from the oil return on the turbo. He's never worked on a CRD so that's all he can tell me for now. Is this a big deal or just the replacement of a hose or two?

If it really is the return on the turbo, it's probably just the gromet that goes on the bottom side, it sits in the side of the block. You'd have to pull the two small bolts on the bottom of the turbo to pull the drain line out, and then you'll want to replace the gasket on the top of the drain line also. I did one the other day without removing anything, but maybe a heat shield, but I have the AC gutted, so you might have more work. It's two of the hardest bolts to remove and reinstall on this engine (while everything is assembled). I was using a camera to make sure I got the top gasket in place properly before I tightened it down.

More than likely though, the oil is coming from the turbo to airbox hose. Pull it off and it will likely be split where it clamps to the turbo.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri May 13, 2016 12:24 pm

Before assuming anything please consider the fact that locating an oil leak, even a small one, can be difficult as air circulation when driving can move oil all over the place. Possible sources of oil on the turbo side of the engine include: intercooler; CAC hose; oil cooler; airbox to turbo hose; turbo "bearing"; turbo oil supply line; turbo oil return line; and valve/cam cover/holder. I'd recommend you warm the engine up a bit; spray it with a good engine degreaser; let sit an appropriate length of time; rinse off (no high pressure hose); drive a day or two and get it on a lift to look for the leak. Might be a good idea to use a some UV dye and black light to help locate leak source.

The turbo oil return line is not pressurized so if it does leak it shouldn't be much. It's possible the upper 2 bolts are just a bit loose so oil is weeping past that gasket (FYI if needed you can make your own gasket using a small knife (ex. box cutter) or scissors and good gasket material from any decent autosupply) and the solution is to tighten the bolts. It's also possible oil is weeeping past the "push" seal where the line enters the block but again should be much. That seal is replaceable but doing so requires line removal.

Like mountainman says check the airbox to turbo line for a split and while in there check turbo "fan" for play should be slight fore/aft and barely perceptible side to side.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Thank you guys, I'm jotting all this down. I went back to the shop and he cleaned the area and put it up on the lift. At this point it looks like the turbo may be the problem. I just bought this CRD and it came with a 30 day warranty. I've been talking to the dealer since I first realized it had a leak (5 days after I bought it) and (so far at least) he's been really good about it. He's asked me to bring it back so his mechanic can go through it and fix it. This dealer has (so far) been really fair and honest so I'm hoping this story has a happy ending. Wish me luck!

Rixram · **Posted:** Fri May 13, 2016 2:54 pm

bigkahuna wrote:

Thank you guys, I'm jotting all this down. I went back to the shop and he cleaned the area and put it up on the lift. At this point it looks like the turbo may be the problem. I just bought this CRD and it came with a 30 day warranty. I've been talking to the dealer since I first realized it had a leak (5 days after I bought it) and (so far at least) he's been really good about it. He's asked me to bring it back so his mechanic can go through it and fix it. This dealer has (so far) been really fair and honest so I'm hoping this story has a happy ending. Wish me luck!

That is good to hear.

Now, 2 very strong suggestions for you:
1] Get the GDE ECO tune. Your sig line says you are bone stock. The GDE tune eliminates the EGR issues, adds power, reliability and improves mileage. Best mod you will ever do, and is, arguably, the single most critical. Consider it mandatory.

2] If it hasn't been done, get your timing belt changed IMMEDIATELY. It doesn't matter that you are under 100K miles. If you haven't had it done, you are running an expensive engine on a 10-year old belt.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Rixram wrote:

bigkahuna wrote:

Thank you guys, I'm jotting all this down. I went back to the shop and he cleaned the area and put it up on the lift. At this point it looks like the turbo may be the problem. I just bought this CRD and it came with a 30 day warranty. I've been talking to the dealer since I first realized it had a leak (5 days after I bought it) and (so far at least) he's been really good about it. He's asked me to bring it back so his mechanic can go through it and fix it. This dealer has (so far) been really fair and honest so I'm hoping this story has a happy ending. Wish me luck!

That is good to hear.

Now, 2 very strong suggestions for you:
1] Get the GDE ECO tune. Your sig line says you are bone stock. The GDE tune eliminates the EGR issues, adds power, reliability and improves mileage. Best mod you will ever do, and is, arguably, the single most critical. Consider it mandatory.

2] If it hasn't been done, get your timing belt changed IMMEDIATELY. It doesn't matter that you are under 100K miles. If you haven't had it done, you are running an expensive engine on a 10-year old belt.

Is the ECO Tune simply an update to the onboard computer's firmware?

The timing belt is at the top of my to-do list. I've watched the videos and have sourced the parts.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 15, 2016 11:27 am

Most all tunes are a re-flash of the vehicles ECM (engine control management computer). The re-flash modifies several specific maps and parameters for some of the engine controls along with a few of the DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) settings.
There are do-it-yourself tunes available on this forum if you would like to do your own. :wink:

Many on here are running them with great success....

Link to DIY thread:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

oil leak from under turbo in 05 sport

Who is online