Well... This saga continues.

Finally got the chance to look under the rear end a few days ago, nothing seems broken or stressed that I could find. All the wires looked good, not kinked or worn at all. So I replaced the rear sensor and..... No change.

The "intermittent" nature of the ABS light and brake light has now become "always on" starting either right from when I start the engine or within a mile of that. Can the front sensors cause the same thing, ALSO stopping the odometer?

Cruise still works perfectly, isn't dropping out on me anymore. I'm confused.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Did you replace the rear Abs sensor wire and connector on the differential, you cant see the split inside the wire.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Sensor yes, wires, no. The insulation of the wire had no evidence of any wear or vibration that might cause a stress break in the wiring. I'm willing to shoot at replacing that wire, if that is the ONLY spot that the odometer pulls its signal from. Is it?

If not, then the next question is, is the front wheel ABS sensor the same as the one in the diff?

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The wires split and you can't see it.

The wires are so tiny that the moving giggling breaks them over time, the break happens close to the neck of the connector. You can't see it and youcan't reuse the connector even though it's good because the break is inside the connctor close to the prong.

The wires are color coded, you must connect them to the correct prong or the light wont go off.

The way you can test it is by twist tying the wires from the new harness and conector together and driving the vehicle 20 feet so that the wheels rotate enough allowing the abs time to register the fix. If the light doesn't go off then swap the wires and drive it for 20 feet again.

Once the light is gone, then you can lock and load the harness sucurely with heat shrink tape. I am very confident that this is your problem.


Ask me how I know, I spent a few hours on trial and error on this one. It's a cheap fix that can rack the brain, make sure you have the wires on right and drive it to test it.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"