Convince me that a CRD is worth it.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

I also think CRD buyer is someone who has owned few wranglers or cjs. I also have had few tacoma extra cabs trds. They all are nice. If CRD was available in Wrangler it would have major cult status in USA. I would not sell mine for penny less $17k

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:22 pm

nissanfrontier wrote:

. I would not sell mine for penny less $17k

That is what I paid for my Limited KJ brand new with 3 miles on her.That's just nuts for a 5-6 year old vehicle with really no support,or reliable source for parts.

doughboyea · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:41 pm

Found a nice looking Liberty near my home.

2005 CRD Limited with 100k miles on it. I know that nice looking doesn't mean good condition. It's a small dealer asking $10,988. Here's a photo:

The timing belt has not been done.

The advertisement is:

Quote:

2005 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD DIESEL, 4 Wheel drive, Automatic, full leather, NAVIGATION with flip out screen and too too much to list,woodgrain package, Upgraded Alloy wheels, Chrome brush bar and Nerf Bar, Adult owned and Excellent Service History, Books and Records, Very sharp ,POWER SUNROOF, Outstanding Diesel Economy, Full Luxury and Full Power
Perfect CarFax
A+ Rating with the BBB
All Cars shown by appointment

Competitive Financing Available

I am just unsure right now of what to look for when I call up for a look-see. Going to search the forum for some insight.

Dough

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:04 pm

Open the hood, pull off the plastic engine cover, look for signs of funky wiring (repairs, splices, looms that don't look normal) on the driver's-rear of the engine. That is where the "cheater chips" plug in.

Look for filth on the top of the engine, especially on the passenger rear of the top of the engine, near the black puck. That is the CCV, and WILL BE a source of crud to pollute the engine and possibly rot out the intake hoses.

Look at the two largest hoses running to the front, they are the intercooler hoses. Do they have a black webbing around them? Plan on getting filthy here, reach around both hoses, but especially the one on the driver's side. You are feeling for any soft spots in the hose, near the connection on the engine side, and almost always on the bottom of the hoses. The emission design from the CCV WILL ROT the hoses if they have not been upgraded to the new factory design. If the webbing isn't filthy, then the hoses may have already been replaced.

Feel around the bottom of the airbox hose where it connects to the front of the turbo - This is another place (the first one) where the oil from the CCV will eat that hose, and it is only a dealer replacement option.

These are all NORMAL things to look for! Don't be dissuaded by any of these things, except the wiring one, but I'm not expecting you to find that. The rest... Is negotiating power for you, b/c it will make the sales droid nervous that you know things about the vehicle that he absolutely will not.

Start it up and look for the CEL, if it is on... Major bargaining position for you. The timing belt job costs $1400 at a dealer with parts, and (according to the book) involves as much as 8 hours of labor (included in that price). Squeeze that dealer, then bring the CRD to either a local guru in your area, or bring it to me. You can get the parts for the timing belt job for a reasonable amount... The belt is available on Amazon for $80, from the same manufacturer that makes them for the Dealers.

Dealer techs (as you should now be aware) know a grand total of ZILCH about these engines. NEVER TAKE YOUR CRD THERE FOR SERVICE.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:17 pm

Connecticut, Hmm? You should take RacerTracer with you to look it over. He's up there, and I will be visiting this next week as I bring my sister's crap up there to an apartment in NYC.

Ok... I've now seen all the pics of that CRD. The "woodgrain" is a sticker-kit add-on. I've seen those before... I'm personally not crazy about them, but you might be able to remove them if you don't like them and clean off the adhesive to get back to the silver trim that you can STILL SEE around all the ill-fitting edges. Those wheels look terrible, this is a JEEP, not a Ford Super-Duty.

What is that box screwed into the panel under the glove box?

Look at the locations of the add-on speakers in the front doors - One appears to be to the left of the door handle on a Left door... The passenger front door, it is to the left again, and above? Doesn't compute, doesn't match the opposite door (or they took a bad picture) and shows that this may have been "adult owned" but remember - "adult" starts at 18...

The engine bay... Those look like the original hoses. Plan on replacing the intercooler hoses immediately, or even sooner. If not, they won't put up with being full WOT-pressured from the turbo for long.

"Green filter"??? I get butterflies seeing that, and not in a good way. Reusable filters like a K&N are just code for "let more crap into your engine rather than filter it better" and that scares me. Not saying that is the case here, but I don't know anything about that and couldn't read it from the picture... So I don't know.

doughboyea · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:35 pm

geordi wrote:

...Those wheels look terrible, this is a JEEP, not a Ford Super-Duty.

I actually like the look of the wheels.

But yes, the wood trim is tacky and the speakers are off...

geordi wrote:

What is that box screwed into the panel under the glove box?

Don't know. Maybe a secret tuning knob for more boost? :roll:

geordi wrote:

"Green filter"??? I get butterflies seeing that, and not in a good way. Reusable filters like a K&N are just code for "let more crap into your engine rather than filter it better" and that scares me.

Is it best to avoid it then simply based on the "performance upgrade" of the oiled filter? I've read that the K&N style filter is OK on gas engines, but diesel will not work. I have no idea how long that "upgrade" has been used.

For others to see gerodi's views: http://www.8602508888.com/2005_Jeep_Liberty_144286772.veh#
And just of note, there are only two within 100 miles of my home, the one above and this one: 2005 CRD Limited with ~75,000 miles

Dough

secondechomatt · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:36 pm

It looks like it is lifted too. Or am I just seeing things?

OldSkull · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:41 am

secondechomatt wrote:

It looks like it is lifted too. Or am I just seeing things?

We are both seen the same "Mirage" then! It's a nice and cleen CRD well equiped and maybe it's because I'm in the 50's.... I like the wood trim! I suspect original owner was not a young spring chicken... :wink:

This chrome piece of metal install on the hood look horrible! Realy It's a old timer rig! With those Michelin donuts I bet he never go off roading with it and he probably use is OEM mag wheels for winter since they are in bad shape because of corrosion caused by salt (This is what I'm gone do with mine)

Now the problems are...Parts are expensive and very "RARE". Trying to get service and support from Chrysler is like asking Ellen DeGenere to have sex with you :banghead:

. Tranny problem, front suspension arm problem, Sticky front calipers problem, resistor for the electric fan control problem, rear ABS sensor problem, rear hand brake problem....Fracking long list and now add to this all the expensive mods.

My advice....Find a nice Tacoma and save $5000 in maintenance fee...Chrysler deserve the same support they give us....Until a better diesel product find his way to the market I think you better stay with gasser.... :2cents:

doughboyea · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:47 am

secondechomatt wrote:

It looks like it is lifted too. Or am I just seeing things?

Could just be the tire/wheel combination.

OldSkull wrote:

...is like asking Ellen DeGenere to have sex with you...

And OldSkull, that's just disgusting...

OldSkull wrote:

My advice....Find a nice Tacoma and save $5000 in maintenance fee...

Tacoma would be nice but it is $10k to $15k MORE than a CRD!
That's just too huge of a price difference for us to afford.

I though that chrome peice was a reflection... gross.

Dough

OldSkull · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:02 am

doughboyea wrote:

OldSkull wrote:

...is like asking Ellen DeGenere to have sex with you...

And OldSkull, that's just disgusting...

OldSkull wrote:

My advice....Find a nice Tacoma and save $5000 in maintenance fee...

Tacoma would be nice but it is $10k to $15k MORE than a CRD!
That's just too huge of a price difference for us to afford.

I though that chrome peice was a reflection... gross.

Dough

Even if I change the name for Pam Henderson do you think you still have a chance? :ROTFL:

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Yes with rebates and stuff gasser could be purchased 17k to 18k range with zero miles. Fact mine was close to 10k more for diesel motor should give you a hint. Finding gas motor liberty is easy as pie finding CRD tough!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:13 pm

nissanfrontier wrote:

Yes with rebates and stuff gasser could be purchased 17k to 18k range with zero miles. Fact mine was close to 10k more for diesel motor should give you a hint. Finding gas motor liberty is easy as pie finding CRD tough!

If your paying anything over invoice your not doing it right.The CRD option was not even a $5000 option so you could have gotten a CRD for under $20,000 if you really wanted to.

logom · **Joined:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:44 am **Posts:** 22

You can get a used one for about HALF of what they cost new, I got 29 mpg pulling a trailer (NO BS), diesels last longer,with an OME lift they are PERFECT!. That is just my opinion but ALL my vehicles are diesel. Gasoline people change to diesel but diesel people don't change to gasoline. Buy one and you'll be convinced...unless you are an idiot.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:38 am

logom wrote:

diesels last longer,.

So far that statement does not hold true with the CRD.

doughboyea · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:46 am

This convincing is not working...

I appreciate everyone's candor, and to be quite honest, I was under the impression that the CRD was the animal to get. Diesel strength, durability, etc being the reasons. But as I read, I am getting the impression that the 2005-2006 models from Daimler Chrysler were an experimentation (read: first year run) of this engine in the US.

Discussing this with my wife, we're now looking at a 2001 model year Cherokee. Spending less on a tried and true off road vehicle. Not that the CRD is not, but being the first year run, I can see that it is plagued with problems that would've been ironed out by following model years.

A fellow employee onsite has roughly 220,000 miles on his Cherokee, if I am able to find one that has under 100,000 miles, it would take me at least 7 years to reach that level with proper maintenance.

Again, thank you all for your contributions. As of this post, I have "not been convinced"

to go after a CRD. Switching gears to the Cherokee.

Dough

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 2:46 pm

The few, the proud, the CRDers.

And we needed to convince this guy, why?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:31 pm

doughboyea wrote:

This convincing is not working...

I appreciate everyone's candor, and to be quite honest, I was under the impression that the CRD was the animal to get. Diesel strength, durability, etc being the reasons. But as I read, I am getting the impression that the 2005-2006 models from Daimler Chrysler were an experimentation (read: first year run) of this engine in the US.

Discussing this with my wife, we're now looking at a 2001 model year Cherokee. Spending less on a tried and true off road vehicle. Not that the CRD is not, but being the first year run, I can see that it is plagued with problems that would've been ironed out by following model years.

A fellow employee onsite has roughly 220,000 miles on his Cherokee, if I am able to find one that has under 100,000 miles, it would take me at least 7 years to reach that level with proper maintenance.

Again, thank you all for your contributions. As of this post, I have "not been convinced"

to go after a CRD. Switching gears to the Cherokee.

Dough

I'd be looking at older XJ's like '96-'98's only.The '99+ XJ's got the nice cracking 303 head,which generally crack at about 100k.No more HP30 either,you want the '96-'98 XJ's with the beefier HP30 with the big u-joints.Earlier HP30's got the smaller,and weaker u-joints,and '99+ XJ's got a low pinion D30.

doughboyea · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:59 pm

racertracer wrote:

The few, the proud, the CRDers.

And we needed to convince this guy, why?

I figured that by asking the honest opinions of those owning the CRD, I would be better educated in my decision process. :roll:

Look to your fellow owners and what they posted about their CRDs. They may like them, hence why they still own them. But as I've never owned one, with the quantity of issues being presented, it may not be the best vehicle for me.

On a side note, this is your second post in this thread. Both were completely and utterly unhelpful. Perhaps, instead of posting what you have (borderline negative), adding to the topic with insightful information would be more beneficial.

Like I posted previously, I appreciate the candor with which other's have described their CRDs.

Dough

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:59 pm

Yeah yeah ... now take a walk and search the older post next time, lazy buns ..... it was all there for you from the biginning nothing new. We had to convince you, for what reason?

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:09 am

geordi wrote:

Start it up and look for the CEL, if it is on... Major bargaining position for you.

But also take note during the lamp test at start up that the CEL does in fact illuminate. Removing the LED to extinguish a CEL is not unheard of.

Convince me that a CRD is worth it.

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