Source for turbochargers?

ac5501 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 5:15 pm

MRausch82 wrote:

jlgail4309 wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

Have you dealt with these guys? They have a new and a reman unit and besides the core charge they are the same price. I may go this route if I decide that I need one.

I bought a Turbo for My 2005 CRD just over a year ago. I have so far put 30k miles on that turbo. Their warranty specified 1 year unlimited mileage. So far its been a good unit, but these turbos seem to be week spot on this vehicle.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 5:24 pm

ac5501 wrote:

MRausch82 wrote:

jlgail4309 wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

Have you dealt with these guys? They have a new and a reman unit and besides the core charge they are the same price. I may go this route if I decide that I need one.

I bought a Turbo for My 2005 CRD just over a year ago. I have so far put 30k miles on that turbo. Their warranty specified 1 year unlimited mileage. So far its been a good unit, but these turbos seem to be week spot on this vehicle.

What happened to your original turbo that made you replace it? Did you get the reman unit or the new unit? Mike

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:27 pm

geordi wrote:

About the oil... Any xW-40 oil becomes the same 40 weight after the temperature rises above the cut-off point. IIRC, that is something like 0 degrees F. So the winter weight doesn't matter as such to the thickness. Once the engine is running, the oil warms up and is a 40 weight.

The play in the shaft side to side is the big concern, and the thickness of the oil is as well. The passages in the turbo around the bearing are amazingly small, about the thickness of a pin. The oil cushion around the center shaft is about half that thickness. Your oil change interval and the cleanliness of your oil is VERY important for this turbo. I wouldn't push the change interval past 6k, and ALWAYS use the best synthetic oil you can find, diesel rated.

As for the cost of a turbo, rebuilt turbos are not available from Garrett. If you talk to your local Bosch Injector service shop, they might already be a Garrett distributor or can direct you to one. My local South Florida ADS (Association of Diesel Service) / Bosch shop found me a brand-new turbo from Brazil for $1080 a few months ago. That was without any core charge.

Garrett does not offer parts either, but if you want to replace the main journal bearing, have a search for my thread called "turbo rebuilding might just be possible" and you will find my write up and a link to the parts kit that I used. $70-odd dollars seems a decent gamble if you want to try rebuilding it yourself, it isn't that difficult and all it requires is basic tools. I don't know if I mentioned in the writeup, but the compressor wheel is reverse-threaded. Hold it with a towel when you unlock it (righty-loosey) and you won't cause it any damage.

Lets see, they make 0W-40 by adding Viscosity Index Improver to 0W oil.
If the Viscosity Index Improver breaks down what do you end up with, you got it 0W oil.
Run 0W oil with broken down Viscosity Index Improver, you are running 0w oil through the turbo and the rest of the engine, not 0W-40. If you use 5W-40, and the Viscosity Index Improver breaks
down, you have a better safety margin. If you don't live in -40C/F weather, what the #ell do you need 0W-40 oil for?
I have run turbos for well over 250,000 miles with out problems, i think it is more than just luck.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:44 pm

I have run 0w40 on many VW turbo diesels with not one turbo failure, including TDI's and Volvo D24T's (VW/Audi engine). I don't think that the oil itself is the main reason for turbo failures. In spending several hours reading old posts, I can't see any reason to say that there are less turbo failures when on uses a diesel rated 5w40 designed for heavy duty trucks over a CF rated 0w40 oil. I don't feel that it makes much, if any difference, but that is just my own personal opinion. I think more so it is lack of maintnance and turbo care. I change oil frequently in all of my engines, and do the proper cool downs. I can't say what maintenance my CRD had in it's first 47k, though it seems to have been well cared for. I do know what I have done. I believe, but cannot confirm, that proper warm up and cool down is a critical factor. For whatever reason, it seems that these Garrett turbos just plain suck!

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:01 pm

Our 2005 has 167k miles and counting with no turbo issues. We've used the factory recommended Mobil-1 0w40 following the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual.

I think 'close' (to spec) and clean carries the day.

We also live on a bit of a hill, so we've been diligent to cool down for at least the recommended time (typically 3-4 minutes).

FYI

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:26 pm

msilbernagel wrote:

Our 2005 has 167k miles and counting with no turbo issues. We've used the factory recommended Mobil-1 0w40 following the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual.

I think 'close' (to spec) and clean carries the day.

We also live on a bit of a hill, so we've been diligent to cool down for at least the recommended time (typically 3-4 minutes).

FYI

We live I the PA mountains and right off of a 55mph road, so we take precautions. How often are you changing the oil out of curiosity? Are you running the ORM or a GDE tune by chance?

ac5501 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:21 am

MRausch82 wrote:

What happened to your original turbo that made you replace it? Did you get the reman unit or the new unit? Mike

When the dealer replaced the first turbo (65k) under warranty (it may not have been bad), they did not attach the bottom bracket to the turbo, and it appears they broke one of the mount bolts. Can't say for sure about the mount bolts as I've been told they can sheer, but bracket was definitely left unattached. I suspect (but cant say for sure) that this caused the second turbo to go out around 123k. Now have 155k on the Jeep. I bought the reman unit, and depending on my finances, I would look to these guys again if my turbo goes out. And from personal experience and what I've read, it probably will at some point.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:22 pm

Color me doubtful about that bottom bracket - I haven't used it since the very first turbo failure when my turbo shaft snapped. I have NO thoughts that it contributed in any way to the second turbo (received used with the replacement engine) buzzing it's journal bearing open to the point of minor housing contact. That happened when that turbo had just about 100k miles on it, which is an acceptable lifespan for a lot of components.

I'm not crazy happy that it happened at all, but I also ask a LOT of my Jeep - and I treat it well in response. I cool it down and let it idle all the time, especially on long trips when it is towing, I might not shut it off all day.

That said, I had previously been running a longer oil change interval. Not anymore. No more than 6000 for me now, having seen how tiny the oil passages within the turbo are. The body of the turbo is cast iron where it is weight bearing, and it has 4 bolts and a VERY short "moment arm" to the weight... Which isn't much weight anyway. Those 4 bolts into the manifold are plenty sufficient to support the thing. The exhaust down pipe is supported from below, so it isn't hanging any extra weight onto the turbo.

I wouldn't worry about that bracket. Worry more about the oil supply to that turbo. Keep it clean!

Source for turbochargers?

Who is online