LCA's done. Again, much easier than screwing with bushings alone. Note for anyone doing this, rear LCA-to-cradle (body) bolt requires some maneuvering to get out... remove front bolt, free LCA from ball joint, then angler LCA a bit to get rear bolt out... reverse for re-install. I used a lock washer when I re-installed LCA's on ball joint studs... I don't trust those nylon retention nuts. May also need to hold ball joint stud with vice grips while you thread on nylon retention nut (or pull stud into LCA hole with jamb nut, then remove, before threading on retention nut) and lock washer. Otherwise, follow service manual procedure.

Any difference in LCA bushing quality between OEM and Moog?

Your advice on which to use?

_________________
06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.

Front suspension overhaul done a few days ago... handles much better/quicker, rides a little more stiff, but not so much as to care about, and probably about the same as factory. Likely will soften up a bit over the next couple months. Interestingly, the original shocks were all still serviceable (original factory parts, made in Brazil in Oct 2005... kudos to the Brazilians), though not anywhere near as strong as the new Bilsteins (4600 series all around... 24-139175 in back and 24-139168 in front... front shocks swapped out of springs by local garage for $40), Moog upper control arms (made in USA, decided to do the full arms to get new ball joints too... crazy to pull the UCA's out just for bushings, then have to go back in later for ball joints), and Mopar replacement bushings in the lower control arms (had a local machine shop swap out the 6 bushings for $60... which they were not happy about once they got into it... a lot more work than they anticipated, at least this first time for them... I had quotes up to $400 (Jeep stealer) just to do the LCA and UCA bushing swap out, off the Jeep). As described earlier, I originally tried Dorman LCA's but didn't like the initial deformation of the clevis bracket bushings; figured Mopar would do better, based on exchanges on this forum and other input, so I returned the Dormans (thanks to Amazon). Those Mopar clevis bushings are somewhat better, but, contrary to what one might think, the Mopar bushings are not made in the USA (Made in Mexico stamped right on them). Notice, the Moog UCA was 'Made in USA', though even that could mean assembled here. The Mopar LCA end bushing looked better than the Dormans and the Moog UCA end bushings looked a little better than the Mopars... Mopars and Moogs deformed under hand pressure about the same). Shocks were about $300 (AJUSA.com), two Moog UCA's $173 from Amazon, LCA bushings $215 from local Jeep dealer (let them match moparpartsoverstock.com price)... (might just go with Moog there if could do over... $97 on Amazon for (2)K7389 and (2)K200258)... see fme-cat.com for lookup). Total 'cost'...$833 with alignment. My labor... probably 16 hours... I don't go breakneck speed. LCA's are actually a fairly easy job; shocks a bit more of a PIA because of the stuff you need to remove in the engine compartment just to get to the bolts; UCA a larger PIA mostly because the Jeep designers didn't do us any favors in making the bolts accessible. Passenger side UCA front bolt OK, rear bolt access tight, drivers side UCA front bolt difficult because of a brake line which must be removed to gain access... OK for me because I wanted to flush the brake fluid anyway (Speedbleeder's made that job very easy), rear bolt is the worst... looks easy per the service manual, but the assembly line folks ran a pair of brake lines right where they preclude socket access... had to use a box wrench from beneath the Jeep, with appropriate pipe/helper extension.
Thanks for the input folks.

Did this over the Christmas vacation. The first one took some time to figure out the tooling. A press is the way to go. Forget the air hammer. The second one was a piece of cake.

Also did these: (angled the fitting so I can get to it nice and easy)

Mostly done:

Since this was the first time I have ever done this on a Jeep, it took way longer than expected. Everything was put back together with anti-seize which I now do with all equipment that is outside.
Ran into a few unanticipated snags during the install/upgrade, but all-in all it was a very good learning experience. And I can say that I did it myself and it was done right.
Going to get the timing belt done soon and then we should be good for another 100K.

_________________
06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.