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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:26 pm 
Finally got a response straight from VM. Do NOT use greater than 5W-40 synthetic.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:47 pm 
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vtdog wrote:
Just a curiosity question. If AMSOIL is so great, why don't they submit their oil to API testing? All we have is their word, no "independent" test. Sorry, but I don't trust anyone in the oil business.


Hey, VTDog, a little energy expended verifying the misinformation you are putting out. and I wouldn't have to correct your misinformation.

Important Information About AMSOIL and API Licensing:

AMSOIL staffers have recently read some message boards containing misinformation regarding this issue. Here some questions are answered and the API licensing issue is addressed in depth, as well as the issue of warranties.

Q. Why aren't all AMSOIL motor oils API licensed?

A. Some AMSOIL motor oils are API licensed, some are not. If you're concerned about your warranty and feel pressures to use an API licensed oil, even after reading this answer, then the 5W-30 (XLF), 5W-20 (XLM) or 10W-30 (XLT) XL-7500 or our 15W-40 (PCO) API licensed oils should be your choice. If you are looking for an alternative to frequent oil changes or just want the best performing oil for your car, then one of our top tier non-API licensed synthetic oils are for you. Read on, and decide for yourself.

Q. API Licensing - Passenger Cars - What is it?

An API (American Petroleum Institute) license indicates that a specific motor oil formulation has passed the minimum performance standards as defined by a series of laboratory bench, physical, chemical and engine tests. These tests were selected and minimum performance standards were set by the API Lubricants Committee to address specific areas such as engine wear, deposits, fuel economy, emissions, etc. The committee is comprised of representatives from automobile, oil and additive companies. The current specification is SJ/GF-2, and in July 2001 the first use of SL/GF-3 began.

Q. What are the costs?

The cost for running a test program for a single passenger car motor oil formulation is from $125,000 to $300,000, depending on whether or not the formula passes the tests the first time through or requires multiple test runs or formula modifications to achieve a passing average. (That amount goes to $275,000 to $500,000 for a Heavy Duty Diesel licensing program on a specific formula.) Once that testing is complete and the formula has passed all of the minimum requirements, it can be licensed for $825 per year for non-members and $625 per year for members. There is also a small royalty fee per gallon sold for all gallons over one million. The length of time between new specifications is now approximately 2 to 3 years, which does not allow a great deal of time to recover testing costs.

Q. Who licenses what formulas?

Additive companies, such as Lubrizol, Ethyl, Infinium, and Oronite, develop licensed formulas that they offer to oil companies to re-license. It is inexpensive to re-license one of these formulas, and the majority of oil companies choose to do this to avoid the costs associated with testing. This, however, tends to commoditize the market. The same chemistry is being sold under many brand names. Most of the major oil companies do have their own proprietary formulas developed, tested and licensed. All of AMSOIL INC.'s lubricant formulas are unique and proprietary.

Q. What flexibility is there in manufacturing an API licensed formula?

API licensing was originally developed for mineral based oils, and it affords these oils more flexibility than synthetic oils.

Mineral oils comprised of Group I and Group II petroleum basestocks may use a simple program called basestock interchange for added flexibility in manufacturing and purchasing. Interchange means that by completing the proper paperwork and running a few minor engine tests an oil company can choose to buy these petroleum basestocks from many different suppliers. This ensures adequate supply and competitive pricing. However, basestock interchange for Group III and V synthetic basestocks is not allowed. For example, if a formula was tested with an ester (Group V) basestock from a specific supplier, then anyone blending that formula must buy only that supplier's ester. Complete engine testing would need to be performed on the formula using another supplier's ester before an oil company could buy it from that alternative supplier. This additional testing is normally not performed because of the associated costs. This inflexibility makes it very difficult for synthetic lubricant manufacturers to negotiate prices with synthetic basestock suppliers.

There is also something called viscosity grade read-across. Fortunately, this applies to both petroleum and synthetic basestocks although the better cold temperature performance of synthetics makes it more difficult to achieve in some situations. (That's another whole story.) What this means is that if you properly formulate the lubricant for which you have run all of the API tests, there are guidelines that allow you to use that same formula to make 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, etc. viscosity motor oil.

Finally, there is a rule for substitutions in the CMA (Chemical Manufacturers Association) code of practice that allows a small degree of flexibility for all formulas. It allows a company to change the percentages of components in the formula by varying amounts from the original formula with limited testing and paperwork requirements. For example, if the licensed formula used 10% of a certain V.I. improver, you would have the ability to utilize from 9% to 11% of the same V.I. improver for your formula.


This is still the USA and everyone is in the end product responsible for their own decisions. :lol: I have been using Amsoil in all of my internal combustion engines (ICE) since 1985 :D and have found their standards to be way way higher than the API. :roll: Like most great manufacturers that are not willing to play the standard game in the USA, yhat have a real quality product, they market their own product. This is the USA you can run what ever you want. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 5:12 pm 
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Has anyone used Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 before?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 5:54 pm 
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RAF 3829 wrote:
Has anyone used Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 before?
Been using it for about 6 years and it has always served me well.

I would have been using Amsoil for years now had it not been for the sales practice that at times causes it to be difficult to find.

Also in the mid 70's the military bases started carrying the Mobil 1 oil at a reduced price compared to off base sales.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:33 pm 
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If they are saving all this money by not having an api rating where is it going?? Last time I checked amsoil was more expensive than anything else. You would think it would be cheaper. I don't have anything against amsoil but do not use it. The problem I have is the way it's marketed. It is a pyramid scheme, I know someone who sells it. I know many who swear by their two-stroke oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:59 pm 
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onthehunt wrote:
If they are saving all this money by not having an api rating where is it going?? Last time I checked amsoil was more expensive than anything else. You would think it would be cheaper. I don't have anything against amsoil but do not use it. The problem I have is the way it's marketed. It is a pyramid scheme, I know someone who sells it. I know many who swear by their two-stroke oil.
I knew I forgot something. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 9:02 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
RAF 3829 wrote:
Has anyone used Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 before?
Been using it for about 6 years and it has always served me well.

I would have been using Amsoil for years now had it not been for the sales practice that at times causes it to be difficult to find.

Also in the mid 70's the military bases started carrying the Mobil 1 oil at a reduced price compared to off base sales.


You Can order All Amsoil products right online and through my site. They will ship right to your door in a few days via UPS. None of my customers have had a problem yet with getting their orders. PLMK if you have any questions about oredering.

BTW, Amsoils marketing Is a MLM, Multi level marketing, which is Not a pyramid scheme. I get paid a commission for what I sell or for what is ordered through my site. In a pyramid scheme, the folks on the bottom eventully don't get anything, not true w/ a MLM.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 9:38 pm 
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I'm seriously thinking about putting in 506.01 for the next oil change. What do you folks think? I can only afford to do two UOAs during my intended 12,000 mile OCI. If anybody wants me to pull more sample as the 506.01 guiniea pig, feel free to donate.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:57 pm 
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Drewd- please do it so I don't have to. $113.00 for a case of oil and a filter is kinda rich for me. Add insult to injury I would have to pay sales tax as amsoil is based in wisconsin. I had no idea!!! I'm really considering getting a oil sample right before changing my rotella and then switching to amsoil and see how they compare at the end. I would want my money back if it wasn't any better though.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:12 am 
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This is just my opinion so take it as you will...

I have used Amsoil products before and feel that they do work as well as they are advertised. That being said they are more expensive and typically more difficult to attain/take longer to attain than say Mobil 1 products that are available at ever WalMart, Autozone, etc.

If I need to change my oil I just go down to Walmart or Autozone buy the Mobil 1 oil and filter, go back home, wham-bam I'm done within the hour! No offense to Amsoil as I like their wide range of products, I just don't like paying higher prices for something I have to wait to get which may be only slightly better than what is readily accessible and cheaper ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 8:21 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
Drewd- please do it so I don't have to. $113.00 for a case of oil and a filter is kinda rich for me. Add insult to injury I would have to pay sales tax as amsoil is based in wisconsin. I had no idea!!! I'm really considering getting a oil sample right before changing my rotella and then switching to amsoil and see how they compare at the end. I would want my money back if it wasn't any better though.


Everyone that buys Amsoil pays their local state sales tax, including Me. Even when ordering online they will charge you your local sales tax.
I would love to see how that test worked out also. I wonder what effect the old, dirty, shell oil residue in the engine would have on the test? I imagine it would test better after the second change w/ Amsoil?
Anyone wanting to do that test? I will pay for the test kit. LMK.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:11 am 
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Seems to me that AMSOIL is marketing itself much like Coors beer in the "old" days. It was only made with "pure mountain spring water" in Golden CO and only sold west of the Miss River. This gave the beer a "mystique" and knuckleheads like me would bring "bootleg" cases back (at premium prices) whenever we travelled to the west. We would even bring it back in coolers because it was "supposed" to be kept cold. But, wait, guess what happened? Coors realized that it could make a ton more money by brewing outside of the "pure mountain spring water" area (even in Newark NJ of all places). Seems to me the info supplied by AMSOIL in this thread is just like the "rocky mountain spring water" foolishness. I strongly suspect that the lack of API testing is just a marketing technique in order to claim that its product is a "boutique oil".

Just goes to show you-the old adage applies to everything:

"money talks, bs walks"


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:40 am 
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Wow!! "boutique oil" what a new term. Do you work for the weather channel? Coors at one time was a small mom and pop operation. They didn't have the nerve or the will to expand east of the mississippi until they had grown large enough. Amsoil is another privately owned operation and they have started slowly and just keep expanding. It sounds like you have a personal gripe with these companies. :)

vtdog wrote:
Seems to me that AMSOIL is marketing itself much like Coors beer in the "old" days. It was only made with "pure mountain spring water" in Golden CO and only sold west of the Miss River. This gave the beer a "mystique" and knuckleheads like me would bring "bootleg" cases back (at premium prices) whenever we travelled to the west. We would even bring it back in coolers because it was "supposed" to be kept cold. But, wait, guess what happened? Coors realized that it could make a ton more money by brewing outside of the "pure mountain spring water" area (even in Newark NJ of all places). Seems to me the info supplied by AMSOIL in this thread is just like the "rocky mountain spring water" foolishness. I strongly suspect that the lack of API testing is just a marketing technique in order to claim that its product is a "boutique oil".

Just goes to show you-the old adage applies to everything:

"money talks, bs walks"

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:09 am 
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I couldn't care less about AMSOIL. I just have a good bs detector and when I hear about AMSOIL the needle pegs.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:45 pm 
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vtdog wrote:
I couldn't care less about AMSOIL. I just have a good bs detector and when I hear about AMSOIL the needle pegs.


I think your BS detector is AFU. Thank GOD this is America and we all have choices

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:05 pm 
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I think AMSoil is a lot of hype...

I mean, I inherited a 1977 Volvo 244 that went over 300,000 miles on a gasoline engine with no major problems. It got wrecked by an uninsured motorist and I sold it for $200 to a neighbor who drove it without a rear quarter panel for a few more years... It had just over 300k when I sold it.

It had never had any fancy oil. My dad bought it when it had about 100k on the odo. He put about 150k on it doing nothing but changing with off the shelf Valvoline 20-50 every 3000 or so. I inherited it with around 250k and did the same... The car was NOT babied (at least not by me anyway). We have no idea what happened to it in it's first 100k.

My sister had a Ford Escort (1988 I think) that went 200k miles before she sold it. She hardly made an oil change interval, and when she did it was with whatever default oil Juffy Lube or whatever used. She also had a Chevy S10 (also late 80s) that went 250k before she gave it to her kid that had the same basic treatment.

A buddy of mine had a Chevy S10 that he drove over 100k with oil changes maybe every 20k miles - using REGULAR cheapo oil. He was a cheap sensored word.

My point is this. Oil quality today is very good. VERY good. Even the basic cheapo oils are very good compared to just a few years ago. All of the full synthetic oils are great.

If you use an oil that is designed for your motor (In the case of the CRD - a CI-4 PLUS oil) you should have no problems. Currently I think the cheapest CI-4 PLUS rated oil is Shell Rotella T full synthetic.

I don't believe that AMSoil can give you any benefit in normal use over the Shell Rotella T full synthetic. Yet AMSoil is harder to get and costs WAY more.

Sure, maybe if you live at the red line, or you tow 3x the rated capacity, or you live in antartica or on the moon or some other extreme conditions, or you want to go a billion miles without changing the oil - you might benefit from AMSoil.

For everyone else who changes the oil 5000-10000 mile intervals, the Shell or Mobil1 is great. For those who insist on changing every 3k no matter what - even the basic Mobil1 in the manual (that is NOT CI-4 rated) will be OK as 3000 miles you don't need a lot of soot retention capacity....

But yes, this is a free country. You can pay 4x the price for no added benefit all you want....

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 3:44 pm 
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valkraider wrote:
I think AMSoil is a lot of hype...

I mean, I inherited a 1977 Volvo 244 that went over 300,000 miles on a gasoline engine with no major problems. It got wrecked by an uninsured motorist and I sold it for $200 to a neighbor who drove it without a rear quarter panel for a few more years... It had just over 300k when I sold it.

It had never had any fancy oil. My dad bought it when it had about 100k on the odo. He put about 150k on it doing nothing but changing with off the shelf Valvoline 20-50 every 3000 or so. I inherited it with around 250k and did the same... The car was NOT babied (at least not by me anyway). We have no idea what happened to it in it's first 100k.

My sister had a Ford Escort (1988 I think) that went 200k miles before she sold it. She hardly made an oil change interval, and when she did it was with whatever default oil Juffy Lube or whatever used. She also had a Chevy S10 (also late 80s) that went 250k before she gave it to her kid that had the same basic treatment.

A buddy of mine had a Chevy S10 that he drove over 100k with oil changes maybe every 20k miles - using REGULAR cheapo oil. He was a cheap @$#%.

My point is this. Oil quality today is very good. VERY good. Even the basic cheapo oils are very good compared to just a few years ago. All of the full synthetic oils are great.

If you use an oil that is designed for your motor (In the case of the CRD - a CI-4 PLUS oil) you should have no problems. Currently I think the cheapest CI-4 PLUS rated oil is Shell Rotella T full synthetic.

I don't believe that AMSoil can give you any benefit in normal use over the Shell Rotella T full synthetic. Yet AMSoil is harder to get and costs WAY more.

Sure, maybe if you live at the red line, or you tow 3x the rated capacity, or you live in antartica or on the moon or some other extreme conditions, or you want to go a billion miles without changing the oil - you might benefit from AMSoil.

For everyone else who changes the oil 5000-10000 mile intervals, the Shell or Mobil1 is great. For those who insist on changing every 3k no matter what - even the basic Mobil1 in the manual (that is NOT CI-4 rated) will be OK as 3000 miles you don't need a lot of soot retention capacity....

But yes, this is a free country. You can pay 4x the price for no added benefit all you want....


Hey Valkraider, how's things out on the West coast?

I will give my experiance with the Amsoil. I had a new 85 745 TD Volvo. The 745 is the station wagong and the Td was the 2.8, 6 cyl, turbo diesel they offered in 85 and 86. I was using a nationally known and recognized oil that the dealer recomended in the car. Valve lash adjustments were suppose to be every 15k mi. I changed the oil back then every 2.5-3K mi. The valves would clatter so bad at 11K mi that I would have to take it in to be adjusted. My technician at the time said I should try Amsoil. He was running it in all of his cars and race bikes. I thought it was hype. He wasn't selling it himself so I said what the heck this guy was really adamant about the benefits and so I ran down an Amsoilo guy. This was a lot harder back in 85 than it is now. I changed over to the Amsoil and installed a bypass filter. Vlave lash immediately went to 22K mi, which was amazing. And yes the guy could have screwed with the valve lash and adjusted it at the max instead of the minimum. I ran that car for 312K mi and averaged 30 mpg the whole time. When I sold it the original turbo was still spooling up and I only dumped the crankcase three times. That was every 100K mi whether it needed it or not. I had a chance to be an Amsoil dealer back in the late 60's when it first came out and thought it was BS. I thought that anything on the MLM sales system was all hype. My Volvo experiance changed all that. I think valve train wear is a direct indication of engine wear. I ran it in my 88 6.2 NA Suburban and again only dumped the crankcase every 100K mi. Now during the 100K every 10K I changed the filters and added 1.5 qts. to make up what I lost and did an oil analysis. And with my KTM motorcycle that uses the european Motul sysnthetic oil, Amsoil is a bargain. It isn't the most expensive. I think Royal Purple and a couple of others are more expensive.

Oil threads tend to be like this and I should have known better that to push the qualities of what I like on others but, I really believe in what I use.

I won't push it any more.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 5:08 pm 
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Hard to sway people on oil issues...everyone has their own experiences and opinions. That being said... Pure DINO oil does not protect better that a properly engineered SYNTHETIC...Synthetic retains it's protective properties longer and under harsher conditions that Dino...Extended Oil Changes help the environment and are safe with Synthetics when they are correctly filtered and kept clean...many other positives.

OK, I said a lot in a few sentences. Well it all comes from personal experiences. I road raced Mazdas for years after Karting for a couple. I also worked at Vehicular Testing where we tested anything from tires to oils. I have seen dyno proof of the superiority...physical proof of Chicago Cab engines torn down and measured...oil temperature on Mazda Rotaries of 20-30 degrees less from one synthetic to another during racing conditions...and much more. Time after Time Amsoil has risen to the top of the heap. It has always served me well and proven itself time after time.

Any good clean oil will probably do the trick under ideal conditions but there are so many variables you can not always see that affect oils. If you religiously change your oil before any sheering or contamination occurs, you are pretty safe. Problem is you can not always avoid these conditons and that is when I feel good knowing I am running the best filters/coolant/oils I can. It is for the times you have no control over that test your oil properties. When that time comes, I trust Amsoil. I know this sounds corny but I can think of no other way to put it. It is one of the products that I would recommend to someone without any reservations.

As for Amsoil not being tested by a neutral party...any oil that has the certifications needed has been tested by a neutral party and passed. They are standards with standard testing. Amsoil always has surpassed the standards set by the regulating authorities.

When racing cars you would hear drivers heralding a product because of sponsorship or getting paid to put a Valvoline decal on thier car (even if they were running something different) so I understand when people say they don't trust everything they read but at some point unless you can do all the testing yourself, you have to sift thru the hype and put your finger on the facts.

I also like Virgin Olive Oil more than Extra Virgin Olive Oil...what am I going to do with an Extra Virgin. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 5:30 pm 
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"I also like Virgin Olive Oil more than Extra Virgin Olive Oil...what am I going to do with an Extra Virgin?"

I'll take any extras you get!! :wink:

BTW, Nicely put Wally. I'll save my breath. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:08 pm 
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Oil war, I smell an oil war!!! :lol: :wink: :lol:

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