Fuel economy - CRD Owners in Texas / San Antonio

TexMech · **Joined:** Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:20 pm **Posts:** 17

Thanks for the reply on the WIF sensor and it's necessity, I reckon I only wanted to repair it just because it bugged me just hangin out like it was. I ordered the MPPS V13.02 cable and have an old laptop that I can dedicate to tuning the jeep only (likely a 20 year old dell that I once used to run a custom built CNC rig with a router many years ago now lol...almost threw it out but now it has a purpose!).

I had a question about the tuning maps though if anyone can help? I read that the maps are not meant for 7V setups and wondered if it mattered that I changed mine back to the 7V Etechno1's (it is a system setup for 7V and was never changed to 5V in the ECU...although the plugs removed were 5V ceramic ones that were improperly installed by the previous owner and was kickin out improper voltage CEL's on all four cylinders). The first job I undertook was the replacement of these ceramic plugs since I was concerned about the condition of the plugs or possible breakage into the engine and knew the EGR elbow clean was necessary until I performed the delete. Is it safe to install the tunes from Yeti on this setup? Also I am still learning which one to use ... 808 or 811...how do I know which is correct (safe to assume when I read it, it will tell me what is there correct?)

Thanks for any pointers on this as I want the best setup possible with the MAF unplugged and have it already setup when the weeks kit is installed.

Happy Jeepin!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 03, 2017 12:41 pm

TexMech wrote:

Thanks for the reply on the WIF sensor and it's necessity, I reckon I only wanted to repair it just because it bugged me just hangin out like it was. I ordered the MPPS V13.02 cable and have an old laptop that I can dedicate to tuning the jeep only (likely a 20 year old dell that I once used to run a custom built CNC rig with a router many years ago now lol...almost threw it out but now it has a purpose!).

I had a question about the tuning maps though if anyone can help? I read that the maps are not meant for 7V setups and wondered if it mattered that I changed mine back to the 7V Etechno1's (it is a system setup for 7V and was never changed to 5V in the ECU...although the plugs removed were 5V ceramic ones that were improperly installed by the previous owner and was kickin out improper voltage CEL's on all four cylinders). The first job I undertook was the replacement of these ceramic plugs since I was concerned about the condition of the plugs or possible breakage into the engine and knew the EGR elbow clean was necessary until I performed the delete. Is it safe to install the tunes from Yeti on this setup? Also I am still learning which one to use ... 808 or 811...how do I know which is correct (safe to assume when I read it, it will tell me what is there correct?)

Thanks for any pointers on this as I want the best setup possible with the MAF unplugged and have it already setup when the weeks kit is installed.

Happy Jeepin!

If it was never set up by a dealer for the 5v GP's, then going back to 7v GP's should be just fine! Even though some on this forum have reported installing the 5v GP's on the 7v OEM systems with no issues. :roll:

The free DIY tunes to the best of my knowledge have never been modified to address GP voltages, they only address increasing engine HP & torque, EGR delete, and FCV delete DTC's.

Once you read your current file with the MPPS cable and software, you can open it with notepad or wordpad on your laptop and you can find out which version you have. It will be in the very first line of text and the very last line of text in the file!
Will look something like this: " X Ò@ Ž 1037380811P_399430 "
In this case, it is the 811 version.

TexMech · **Joined:** Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:20 pm **Posts:** 17

That's kinda what I thought, thanks for the confirmation its much appreciated. MPPS cable is on its way and will have it reprogrammed soon. Can't wait to see how it runs with those changes, as it is ...it runs like a rocketship and I have to do my best not to put my foot too far into the turbocharger (I'll be less hesitant once the timing belt change is done hah!)

Happy Jeepin!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:55 am

TexMech wrote:

That's kinda what I thought, thanks for the confirmation its much appreciated. MPPS cable is on its way and will have it reprogrammed soon. Can't wait to see how it runs with those changes, as it is ...it runs like a rocketship and I have to do my best not to put my foot too far into the turbocharger (I'll be less hesitant once the timing belt change is done hah!)

Happy Jeepin!

Be forewarned! As you increase HP & torque, the stock whimpy torque converter WILL start slipping in lockup (shudder or chattering)

Most who up the HP & torque via a tune, replace the TC with a SunCoast or Hemi TC or an equivalent...

:SOMBRERO:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:19 am

wwdiesel is correct but within limits. I offer 3 personal facts.
1. the stock TC will not stand up to the GDE stage II turbo and its tune. Full throttle acceleration produces instant massive shudder but very light foot driving got me home from Savannah plus a month of local driving with no shudder before going to SunCoast for them to install their TC.
2. my 05, pre-GDE turbo, ran with no shudder on the OEM TC with the GDE EcoTune
3. my son's 06 has 50k+ miles with the OEM TC and the GDE EcoTune including 2 1,500 mile or so trips with a fully loaded CRD, 2 adults, towing a fully loaded 5X8 uHaul trailer. While towing we experienced light shudder once; hit the overdrive cutoff button and shudder went away, did not come back when overdrive was reengaged.

Bottom line is it depends on how much you increase HP and torque and how aggressively you use the gopedal. If in fact you do have problems a TC upgrade will be needed and replace the tranny front pump while you are in there.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:04 pm

The Stage III & IV tunes will both overwhelm the a stock TC in lockup!
Personally know that for a fact!
and yes, if you R&R transmission to upgrade TC, for sure replace the front pump assembly.... :roll:

TexMech · **Joined:** Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:20 pm **Posts:** 17

Thanks for all the replies, great info there for sure. My intent was to run it stock until I get the timing belt and water pump replacement performed. I have done my best not to get my foot in the accelerator but it's a challenge as it's got more than enough get up and go. It had also been my intent to improve radically poor fuel economy with the EGR delete, which I can see is more than worth the expense (job number 2 after the timing belt replacement). As far as I understand it, Yeti with EFR/FCV delete only (certainly not III or IV yet) should work fine as long as the weeks kit is in there (or work ok with my MAF unplugged which disables EGR/FCV)? I hadn't intended to change it to a stage III or IV until I got a better idea of the turbocharger's health if not have one on hand if it blew since it is a VNT type. l have to price out the Suncoast TC ...I have noticed an ever so slight shudder off idle but seems more like u-joints in the driveshaft in need of replacement soon as well - I kinda favor Spicer. Does anyone recommend a particular front pump as part of the TC replacement or does OEM fit the bill? Thanks for any replies, sure am learnin' a great deal from all of your experience with this lost jeep!!

Happy Jeepin!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 9:34 pm

You are on the right track and have a good plan!
Timing belt is priority one!
EGR delete, Weeks elbow kit is no. 2
DIY tune after getting rid of the EGR crap must be done after no. 2 to get rid of the DTC's after removing and unplugging the EGR valve and the Flow Control Valve....
Everything else can come in time as money and wants allow.... :wink:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 06, 2017 3:55 pm

I know this is a little late, but the GDE transmission tune mainly lets the transmission enter 4th and 5 th gear lockup a little earlier and then enables it to stay in that gear with torque converter locked to a lower speed. It also enables the 4th to fifth shift to be lockup to lockup that is never coming out of lockup.. The efficiency increase comes from staying in lockup more on the torque converter which also helps transmission stay cooler. There is no change in ratio of the gears. There is also not difference in performance at all at higher speeds such as over an indicated 62 MPH on the speedometer where the original tune will be in torque converter lockup anyway.

I didn't even think to make sure you basically have the overdrive function on all the time for improved economy.

Fuel economy - CRD Owners in Texas / San Antonio

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