REAR MAIN SEAL HELP!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:08 pm

papaindigo wrote:

I have no opinion on what torque is correct but offer 2 comments:
1. both the 05 and 06 FSMs are well known for bad data on torque and capacities. Sometimes it's a obvious botched metric to SAE conversion (ex. coolant capacity) but sometimes it's a insanely too high torque (ex. viscous fan drive to engine). T-50 bolts max torque is a bit under 100ft lbs.
2. brake clean or some such is a good idea before using Loctite but I'd use caution with Loctite red. According to Loctite it requires application of 500-550F heat to release using ordinary hand tools; don't know about impact tools.

Hmm, I wonder what the max torque is for the hub bolts? They are E-torx E12 and what, M8?
I read that the E12 head its self can handle 161-189 ft/lbs, but that's way more than what that little bolt can handle.

Thermorex, I just don't want to have to pull the transmission again. Maybe I should just wait for my angle torque gauge thingy to get here and follow the procedure. The way that the hub extends off the end of the crank, and then has the flywheel swinging around on it, seems like a good recipe for vibrating loose to me. What happened to just having the flywheel bolt directly to the crank? I guess this design is less expensive to manufacture, or maybe the fact that it's replaceable is advantageous?
I'm not worried about the flywheel bolts anymore, just the hub bolts.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Let me clarify my previous post regarding my experience with these torx bolts. When I said I agree they were difficult and I also broke a torx bit, I was referring to removing them. I had no issues with installing them. While the SM is rather unhelpful with the steps for replacing the rear main seal itself, the torque procedure is rather straightforward.

I expect the reason the SM calls out a pre-torque (37 ftlbs) is to insure the hub is fully seated - straight & flush. It is a rather precise fit and it would be possible to torque it down and have it not sitting square. So first you pre-torque all of the torx bolts to insure everything is sitting flush, straight & square. Then one by one (paint mark them to be certain), in a criss cross fashion (don't want to un-square it) you back each bolt out to 'loose', torque it down to 19 ftlbs + 60degrees. Frankly this does not result in a very higher overall torque. 19ftlbs is virtually nothing. And 60degrees is less than a quarter turn. My impression after the torque procedure was that there was no way that was the procedure in the factory because the original breakaway torque was unbelievable (again - reference broken sockets to get them out). If I were to guess, I would say the factory breakaway torque was well in excess of 100ftlbs. And the SM re-torque results in less than half of that. It was for this reason I chose to locktite mine. Better safe than sorry. No way I want to dig that deep into this engine ever again - certainly not for something as stupid as a loose bolt (been there done that on an old Quad4)

lacabrera · **Posted:** Thu Apr 14, 2016 1:54 pm

lacabrera wrote:

I had the same problem trying to torque the flywheel bolts. I tossed the FSM out the window and went with 95lbf and blue locktite. 10,000 miles on and all is well.

Just encase I confused some guys, no flex plate on mine flywheel bolts direct to the crank. Bolts are TTY and should be replaced but I reused mine with no known issues.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Apr 14, 2016 2:48 pm

Thanks again everyone, I think I got it together securely. From what I read, I think the only thing preventing locktite from setting up, is the absence of iron or copper, so an oil coating sure sounds like it will at least slow it down a lot, not sure if it will ever set up. hmm, they do have a spray you can use if you want to make sure it sets up, or if you're using locktite in an iron and copper free application, I might get some for future jobs to avoid huffing more brake cleaner than necessary, although it is tasty :5SHOTS:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:06 am

The Loctite technical data sheets for both blue and red say they "set" in 10 minutes and "cure" in 24 hours; that the surfaces to be joined must be clean and dry (oil on one or both surfaces would not = clean and dry); and that they set/cure in the absence of air between closely joined surfaces like threads. Nothing about iron or copper although neither should be used on plastics.

REAR MAIN SEAL HELP!

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