IT LIVES! (mostly) was: "I think I blew my turbo"

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Dec 26, 2012 3:32 pm

R2.0 wrote:

I'm taking suggestions for it's use. I'm leaning toward incorporating it into a waterfall for the koi pond that came with the new place.

Hope you feel better... And I want to see pics if you use the turbo for that. That would be awesome.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 27, 2012 2:58 pm

geordi wrote:

R2.0 wrote:

I'm taking suggestions for it's use. I'm leaning toward incorporating it into a waterfall for the koi pond that came with the new place.

Hope you feel better... And I want to see pics if you use the turbo for that. That would be awesome.

Feeling better already - or at least less contagious. Going to swing by HF tonight and get some extensions. I'm hoping 3/8" will do it - I can't imagine being able to maneuver 4' of 1/2" extensions.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 05, 2013 5:31 pm

Update: Was under there today and tried to get the motor mounts out. How the HELL anyone is supposed to get the driver's side off I don't know. But I'm figuring I can pull the mounts and lower the engine onto the tabs on the body, giving me more room to get to the upper tranny bolts. I already broke a 3/8" wobble extension from Harbor Freight and an 18mm Craftsman deep socket. The latter was my fault - apparently "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" escaped me for a bit. :roll:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:20 pm

Someone suggested the Harbor freight indexing ratchet ~ $20

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-ratchet-with-indexable-head-96090.html
it helped - (but ti's not magic - it was still a pain)

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:31 am

Whichever genius designed that driver's mount lower point, putting that barricade or whatever it was RIGHT in the way... That engineer needs to spend the rest of his days changing engine mounts outdoors in the Aleutian Islands.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:24 pm

I do not beleve you would be able to remove the oil pan to possibly get to the rod bearings? Not much room under these things.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:14 pm

Yesterday, after many starts and reversals, I started the engine in my Liberty for the first time in over 8 months. It's still on blocks, and still needs the front end installed, exhaust re-supported, and various wires and lines secured, but it idled for at least 15 minutes without stalling or exploding. Today I finish getting it roadworthy (not necessarily complete - still needs the AC recharged) and finish the fluid flushes I have set up:

1) Oil: Initial fill with generic 15w-40 diesel oil and LubroMoly oil flush. This is to clean out the remaining sludge that I couldn't remove when the engine was open, as well as the residual kerosene I used for flushing on the engine stand. This will get drained and replaced without the car even coming off the stand - I just need to get the oil nice and hot and circulating and then dump it. Refill with oil from IDParts, change filter, and I'll run that for 500-1000 miles and dump it again, then refill with Shell Rotella T-6.

2) Coolant: Initial fill was with 2.5 gallons of water from the dehumidifier in the basement. I unplugged the electric fan so the engine could come up to temp. I'm a little concerned about air in the head, but the front of the car is up on jacks so that should help. The water will get a bottle of Prestone flush to get all the oil out of the system (inevitable when I had the cams off), flush the engine with the hose, and then refill with Zerex G-5 and store bought distilled.

Thanks to everyone who's helped so far, and I'll keep updating.

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:18 pm

Congrads!!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:21 pm

Good to hear. On that coolant fill my best quess, FSM is inconsistent, is the actual capacity of the cooling system including the tank of the firewall is 13.2 qts based on the appearance that the 12.5L figure is correct and DCJ botched the conversion of US units of measure. Generally folks seem to only get about 10 qts out by gravity due to coolant being trapped in like the lower radiator hose which is below the drain although squeeto (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56486&hilit=citric) was able to get a bit more out.

As to air in the head. When you fill do it relatively slowly, to allow incoming fluid to push air up thru the system, from the tank on the firewall with the vent valve on the upper passenger side of the radiator open; when fluid comes out of that valve "burp" the system and continue filling until no more air comes out; close the valve and continue filling; at most this leaves a bit of air in the tstat housing which should purge to the firewall tank in a couple of drive cycles from cold to hot and back. If you are really worried at least one forum member drilled and tapped the top of the tstat housing for screw type vent (similar to venting at the radiator but "higher").

camo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:01 pm

congrats

R2.0 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 1:15 pm

So it's back on the road with a couple of issues:

1) As I said before, I did an initial fill with cheap 15W-40 and LubroMoly flush to get all the junk out. Ran it 2 times, for about 15 minutes at a time, no problems. Then I drained the oil and changed the filter, then lowered the car off the stands.

a) Drain plug is stripped - it won't tighten up. I think it's from using the "filter relocation" kit to flush the engine on the stand. Anyone have a link to the proper spark plug repair kit to use? I'm also looking into Loctite Form-a-thread and using the plug that caused the problem to begin with and a slathering of JB weld - it will reduce the drain plug to about 12mm.

b) Filled with 0W-40 and now there's a ticking noise. Rear of the block. Pretty sure it's a lifter, but I'm going to change to 5W-40 and see what that does. To be clear, the ONLY 2 things that changed were the oil and lowering the car.

2) I am missing the frame that goes onto the top of the engine under the plastic cover. Seriously - flat out missing. Looked everywhere, can't find it. Does this thing do anything important?

3) AC system: It's been semi-open (I plugged everything with paper towels) for almost 8 months. Any suggestions?

4) Miscellaneous clips/retainers - for the life of me I cannot figure out where all the little clips and retainers that hold the wiring loom and the transmission cooler lines go. The FSM is pretty useless for this, and the parts fiche isn't any help either. I'm hoping to have a friend stop by who has a CRD so I can do aside-by-side comparison.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:31 pm

1a. see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66245&p=728122&hilit=thread*+drain#p728122
1b. cannot help but not a good sound
2. if you mean the plastic thing then its purpose is to keep wiring away from immediate contact with the head. How important that is and whether or not an alternative can be fabricated I don't know. I suspect a good DCJ parts person can find it and whoever got geordi's trash engine(s) may have a spare along with LMWatBullRun
3. will need a new dryer, a full vacuum pull down and a complete recharge at least. Best have AC shop do it.
4. short of pictures that's the best idea.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:01 pm

papaindigo wrote:

1a. see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66245&p=728122&hilit=thread*+drain#p728122

Already saw that, was wondering if someone had a favored brand. Despite driving air cooled VW's for years I've never actually had to use one.

Quote:

1b. cannot help but not a good sound

Not thrilled about it either, but didn't have much choice - the car I had borrowed was leaving.

Quote:

2. if you mean the plastic thing then its purpose is to keep wiring away from immediate contact with the head. How important that is and whether or not an alternative can be fabricated I don't know. I suspect a good DCJ parts person can find it and whoever got geordi's trash engine(s) may have a spare along with LMWatBullRun

Nope, it's the metal frame that goes between the plastic cover and the wire harness. The thing is, the FSM shows it, but the parts fiche doesn't.

Quote:

3. will need a new dryer, a full vacuum pull down and a complete recharge at least. Best have AC shop do it.

Borrowed a vac pump and have gauges already. I'm thinking replace the drier and orings, get the engine nice and hot on a hot day, pull a vacuum, and let it sit for a while to let the water boil off. Charge the system (add oil to replace what left), run it for a while, and then replace the drier again to get the last of the moisture out of the system.

Quote:

4. short of pictures that's the best idea.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:31 pm

R2.0 - You don't need to heat up the engine OR replace the drier twice to clean out the AC system.

The drier is a canister full of something like silica beads, simply designed to absorb any remaining water after the system is vacuumed. As for the vacuum, by sucking the system down, you are lowering the boiling point of water to less than the air temp. IIRC, a 20 inch vacuum pulls the water boil point down to about 70 degrees F. I generally try for about a 22-23" vacuum on my systems, and I have never had a problem with water contamination. Just hook the pump up, open the valves on your gauges with the thing running... And go have a sandwich. Leave it alone for at least 30 minutes to an hour, and you will be just fine with a fresh drier.

The o-rings also don't need to be replaced unless they have actually been sitting out in the air. Any that were still in their 'installed' position and closed up are just fine, don't mess with them. The high side pipe on the driver's side of the engine *could* be a problem, especially if the block at the end of the hose is movable in relation to the rest of the hard pipe. That piece is only pressed into position as a seal with the hose - if it moves, the seal is broken.

Ticking noise? I hope it goes away, keep an eye / ear on that.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:57 pm

geordi wrote:

R2.0 - You don't need to heat up the engine OR replace the drier twice to clean out the AC system.

The drier is a canister full of something like silica beads, simply designed to absorb any remaining water after the system is vacuumed. As for the vacuum, by sucking the system down, you are lowering the boiling point of water to less than the air temp. IIRC, a 20 inch vacuum pulls the water boil point down to about 70 degrees F. I generally try for about a 22-23" vacuum on my systems, and I have never had a problem with water contamination. Just hook the pump up, open the valves on your gauges with the thing running... And go have a sandwich. Leave it alone for at least 30 minutes to an hour, and you will be just fine with a fresh drier.

Not according to this chart:

29" of vacuum gets you an 80F boiling point. 20" only gets you down to about 160F. And it's been open for a while, in an atypically wet Mid Atlantic winter and spring. I think I may just replace the drier and see how it goes, and check pressures every so often.

Quote:

The o-rings also don't need to be replaced unless they have actually been sitting out in the air.

They were.

Quote:

Any that were still in their 'installed' position and closed up are just fine, don't mess with them. The high side pipe on the driver's side of the engine *could* be a problem, especially if the block at the end of the hose is movable in relation to the rest of the hard pipe. That piece is only pressed into position as a seal with the hose - if it moves, the seal is broken.

Don't follow - you mean the block mounted on the compressor?

Quote:

Ticking noise? I hope it goes away, keep an eye / ear on that.

I am - it seems to have diminished a bit, but I'm still going to change to the thicker oil

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:55 pm

I said I was a bit fuzzy on the specific temps for the vacuum, but even so - with a fresh drier and even a moderate 30 minute vacuum to 22/23 inches, my systems have always been fine. The block I was referring to on the hose is at the end of the high side hose - it is what the bolt goes through to hold the hard hose down. There is a very small and hard to see seam in the aluminum. The hose itself is a separate part from that block, it was pressed into one piece at the time of manufacture.

The other end that plugs into the top of the drier in front of the radiator is the same type of connection.

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:46 pm

If the desiccant has been exposed to air for 8 months the pellets break down - and glump into a mass - even in a vacuum it'd take months for the moisture to diffuse out.

Get a new one.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:50 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

If the desiccant has been exposed to air for 8 months the pellets break down - and glump into a mass - even in a vacuum it'd take months for the moisture to diffuse out.

Get a new one.

I'd install the new one then pull a vacuum.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:27 am

That is kinda the procedure. :wink:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:39 pm

For your a/c here is what you should do since it has been open so long:

- Replace any o-rings that have been exposed to air. Lube new o-rings in refrigerant oil before installing. Going to need to get some PAG oil from the dealer for a CRD.

- Pull compressor. Dump oil. Measure oil. Add fresh oil back into compressor in the same amount as you took out. You may have to add a couple of ounces of oil to account for the new dryer and any other replaced components. Service manual should state amounts.

- order new liquid line hose that comes with a new orifice and intall.

- Install new dryer.

- See if you can get a cylinder of dry nitrogen with regulator. Pressurerize system with 100psig of N2 and check for leaks with soap and water solutions.

- Release nitrogen. Run vacuum pump. Technically you should have a vacuum guage that measures in microns and pull the system down below 1000 microns, preferably 500 microns,but due to the hoses on an automotive ac system it may not get that low. This is the only way to know for sure that you have removed all moisture. Dial guages don't tell you squat. Can show -29 "HG Vac and still have moisture due to guage inaccuracies. Now if you cannot get access to micron guage you will just have to let the pump run for a good 1-2 hours. Carefully break vacuum with nitrogen again to 5-10 psig and let nitro out again. Pull vacuum again for 1-2 hours. Break again with dry nitrogen. Pull vacuum again for 1-2 hours. *Make sure your vacuum pump is warmed up before pulling a vacuum and has fresh vacuum pump oil in it.*

Now you should be able to recharge your system after the last vacuum.

I am a commercial refrigeration/ac technician and I do this for a living. Moisture kills A/C systems. If you don't get it out, it may end up plugging up your system, creating ice, or killing your compressor.

IT LIVES! (mostly) was: "I think I blew my turbo"

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