I soldered the wires and used heat shrink tubing. I have been soldering all automotive connections since I starting installing car stereos in the late 1970's. I have NEVER had a failed connection with solder.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

Went with butt connectors. Just lazy.

Found the turbo inlet hose starting to go. Another part on order.

So we are getting ready to test start. What needs to be installed before starting? Dose the turbo inlet and air box need to be installed? Battery is charged. New fuel head so I'll be bleeding air for awhile. I've left #4 injector fuel line lose to aid in getting fuel to the rail.

Any other tips? I'm on information overload right now...

Bleed the fuel filter head - pump primer; crack bleeder; close bleeder; repeat cycle until no air (I like 12" or so of clear vinyl tube going to a catch can from the bleeder; no mess and you can see bubbles). If you are in a relatively clean air place no need to put airbox and hose back on and you can leave the timing belt cover and everything in front of it off, assuming of course that the coolant system is hooked up. If so bump the starter a few times to push fuel out of the loose injector fitting; tighten the fitting up and fire the engine up. Assuming it fires up run for say 10-15 seconds, shut down, and put it all back together (check tb tensioner first though).

I've been around several where we have done this brief engine run with no problems before buttoning things up after a tb job.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Like bleeding brakes. Got it. I assume if a rocker has gone astray i'll know pretty quickly??

Well she started. Took a bit to get fuel to the injectors but here is a video or the test run. What is the consensus, sound right?

http://youtu.be/Zr8xP3MdJaw

YEEHAW!

Hopefully my jeep fairs as well!

Thanks for the progress reports!!

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El Jefe de Biosmell,
at your service!

2005 Black CRD Limited (18,000) now 130000 miles, GDE Eco-tune, Geordi timing belt job, Weeks delete and ARP studs. New rockers, head gasket, water pump and Etecno 7v plugs while we were in there. 100% Biodiesel 100% of the time!
2001 Dodge 24 valve Forest Green, 6" lift, full Banks Power Kit.

Sounds good to me, but be aware that it can take up to 10 minutes of idling before everything smooths out and the rail is fully purged of air. So don't get scared if there are any stumbles for the first little while.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Once I have her buttoned up I'll recap with things I've learned.

All done and runs great
Thanks to all. Now I have to find someone to trouble shoot the a/c. Not my thing. It worked when we parked it 7 months ago.

Things I learned:
1. Better to have a dedicated area to do the work. Putting everything away everyday and at the mercy of the weather cost a lot of time.
2. The FSM is a good reference but try and find a simple thing like torque setting for power steering pump pulley. Document all torque settings you will need before reassemble. I spent a lot of time searching for torque settings as I was working.
3. I suggest you outline the job as if your are writing a paper in high school and flesh out the details as you read different posts. Searching for the right post or reviewing bookmarks is not a good system. Not when you are up to your elbows in the engine compartment.
4. 7 mil gloves are better the 5. I went though a box of 100. Tore quite a few.
5. Get lots of hand cleaner.

Overall a fun project. I'd do it again but hope only the timing belt next time. I even impressed my 30 year old daughter.

Congrat's!!!

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Yeah the 5 mil suck. I only use the 7 mil at work. Can often reuse the same pair. Grease monkey yellow box is the 7 mil.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16