Screw those dealers. I hope they are. Personally, I'd sue them, and make it my lifes work to tell everyone I knew about them. I would start a website, take out ads in the newspaper, get local cable air time, send mailers to everyone in the area, send smoke signals, etc. Even if it cost my life savings. I don't get mad, I just get good and friggin even!!!! I really hate to see people get screwed like this. I see it all the time. A CRD customer of mine up here just got screwed on his CRD. I am trying to convince him to fix it, or let me fix it rather than selling it at a huge loss. I'd rather help someone for next to nothing than see someone get hosed by a scumbag dealer. Again, not all dealers are this way, but a lot are. They ruin it for the rest. Shame on them! These idiots need to be held accountable! Its not a matter of the money at this point, it is a matter of what is right, and the OP is certainly, continuously getting screwed here. They are not even providing proper lubrication for him!

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Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

I just got in for the night and Ive been in the barn trying to figure out whats going on with this darn thing I hooked my code reader up and its P0101 again and it runs and drives exactly as it did before I had it worked on. It runs fine other than it hesitates alittle on initial acceleration. I have my assumption of whats wrong with it and its excessive carbon build up on the valves causing the rockers to work harder keeping them from opening all of the way. If thats the case in order to fix it to satisfy me I will have to remove the clylinder head myself and have it completely cleaned and inspected by my local machine shop. Either that or Iam just going to have to forget it and wholesale the vehicle and get rid of it. I did leave a message on the mechanics cell phone and hopefully he will call me back and give me some advice. Iam going to have to watch how much more I put into this vehicle and if its going to be more than $11,500 invested Iam going to have to call it quits for sure.

Wow, I just reread this whole thread. . . while sipping beer; it took almost a six pack.

At risk of making myself sound like an idiot, I'm going to ask if you ever just unplugged the MAF? or replace the MAF?

For any noobs looking to buy a CRD, this thread is indicative of vehicles that have not had the necessary longevity mods performed. Tune, SEGR, and all the rest listed in the noob guide.

The window for buying a bone stock RELIABLE CRD has closed. OR, listen to a used car dealer who boasts of not having any 'performance mods' done on the CRD he's hawking. More often in the future the results will look a lot like this.

Sorry this happened.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

P0101 could be caused if the wires to the MAF are broken, they are very small. For that matter, the wires of the "Mercedes logo sensor" on the side of the air box are also fragile, be careful of those too.

Now... The MAF itself is really only used for the EGR. I know you want to have a nice clean and dark dash, no idiot lights. Now that you have the jeep back, unplug the MAF and see if the hesitation is still there. If it is, the answer isn't that your valves aren't opening properly (more about that later) it is that your EGR isn't CLOSED all the way.

At higher boost levels, this is less of a problem, but at low speed, this is where the boost is most needed and any leaking hurts more. I would strongly suggest taking off the intake elbow (believe it or not, this is the easier side to get to) and unbolt that little EGR tube from the elbow and the EGR. Cut the flange off the pipe, and have a friendly welding shop weld it shut on the pipe side. You have now made a cap. Put that back on the elbow. Make a flat plate to match the other end of the EGR pipe, and bolt it back onto the EGR - sealing it shut forever. You have just solved MANY evils.

While you have the FCV out, it would be a good idea to also extract the disc in the center of it, neutering that useless piece of carp.

Now, about the valves. Soot doesn't really build up in the narrowest spaces of the air passages, it has already deposited most of itself in the oil in the intake elbow area. Even if it did, it would hold the valves OPEN and not prevent them from opening. The result would be extremely poor running and lots of unhappy noises at ALL speeds and power levels, not just at low speed and then go away.

Leave the top of your engine alone at this stage, I do not believe that you have anything more to spend on this CRD (right now) other than a tune from GDE to solve the inevitable idiot light from the plugged EGR and enhance the rest of the running and economy.

There will be plenty of opportunities to spend time taking it apart later, just solve the obvious problems right now.

MAF codes, FCV codes, EGR codes all mean exactly the same thing on the CRD: the EGR nanny system isn't happy, usually because the EGR is broken - either intentionally or because it was a piece of crap to begin with. On most stock engines, they only lasted about 20k miles before breaking. Why? Because Chrysler programmed them to be OPEN about 75-90% of the time the engine was running. Below 60mph or so and at anything below about 40% throttle (cruising not acceleration) the EGR would be commanded to be open.

YUCK. Be glad you have that code.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks alot thats the best advice that I have got in along time. I talked with the mechanic this morning that done the work and he suggested almost the same exact thing, he is the only one that isn't crooked of the whole bunch that I have been dealing with in Indianapolis. He first highly recomended the GDE tune and if I want real assurance that the EGR is dead I can block the EGR ports entirely to see if the problem goes away, he said he would have done if for me while it was in the shop if he was allowed. Another thing he mentioned that he already inspected the wiring to the MAF sensor before he replaced it and he said that I also already have a new MAP "manifold absolute pressure sensor" and a new camshaft sensor, its in the parts list. I suggested that the problem could be excessive carbon build up on the intake valves causing delayed reaction, incomplete opening or not closing 100% and he said that its probably more unlikely due to the fact that he didn't see alot of carbon build up that deep in the intake. I also have a good mechanic locally here that wants to bring over his new scope camera to look at the valves stems from inside of the intake manifold before I decide on removing the cylinder head as a last resort.

You won't be able to see the valve stems unless you completely follow one of the intake runners, and even then, that will only be one valve out of 16. I don't think that will be worth the effort. I had very similar hesitation issues, and the solution was either an air leak (porous boost hose) an EGR leak (plugged it) or a turbo that had a manufacturing flaw.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.