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 Post subject: P 0410
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:15 am 
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Hello all! While I was driving, obviously, MIL came on and spitted out a code P0410. I would appreciate if anybody could tell me what this means. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 1:13 am 
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Odometer code swaps the last 2 digits - its a P0401 code - low egr flow. Most likely either bad egr valve/air flow control valve. Just had the same code on mine and ended up with a new egr valve.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 6:52 am 
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Thanks ranger. Did you notice any difference in your engine performance once the code appeared. My engine seems a little sluggish and less responsive ever since the code showed up.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 7:52 am 
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Yes, performance and mileage suffers if the valve fails in the open position.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 2:26 pm 
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Ranger1 wrote:
Yes, performance and mileage suffers if the valve fails in the open position.


I just had my egr flow control valve replaced afterr a long delay waiting for the part. Mileage was down to 21 - 22 at best, I am hoping it picks up. It does seem to be better off hte line and shuts off like a gasser, no run on at all. So was you comment reffering to the egr valve or egr flow control valve?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 5:55 pm 
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EGR valve. The air control valve can cause problems also, but the egr valve is the only one of the 2 that can prevent exhaust gas from entering your engine intake. If it fails, too much exhaust gas will cause less than optimal burn conditions, resulting in poor power, economy and a sooty hell for your turbo vanes and catalyst.

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SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
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IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:23 pm 
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So this EGR valve must have a mind of its own. I was going to take it in tomorrow to have the dealer tell me that I need a replacement but right before I came home today, MIL turned off. I tried to bring up the code again and came up empty handed. There is one thing I might have to mention, I recently installed the boost and egt gauges which required disconnecting and reconnecting the battery a few times so I can find the source for the dash lighting. During the connecting and disconnecting, I did hear a humming noise coming from the egr valve or from that area. Could this constant operation with the battery cause the egr to fail?? I would think not but I'm curious. I understand this is an old topic so I apologize.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 3:13 am 
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I no experiance with the Jeep computer systems but from working on a 92 Mercedes and 98 Civic unpluging the battery can sometimes cause the Check Engine light to come on. Toggle the key or unplug the batt again and it goes out never to return. Not sure if the same thing happend to you.

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 Post subject: EGR
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 9:32 am 
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Having been through the EGR failure biz three times, I can tell you that the CEL sometimes comes and goes, but once set will store error codes for about 50 restarts of the engine before auto-clearing them. Thus the codes will still be there for the dealer to read, even if the CEL is off when they look.

Do be aware, in case one EGR swap doesn't do the job for you, like it didn't for me, that there are two valves called by DC as EGR valves, and that they appear to me to throw the same codes when they fail. If replacing one of them doesn't do it, it might be that you need the other one.

I don't know what the AA valve in the exhaust stream costs, but I do know the cost of the AB valve, in the intake manifold costs: $600, roughly, as I had to pay for it myself (still in litigation over that).


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