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 Post subject: Secret to serpentine drive belt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:18 pm 
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Okay, I am right at 40,000 miles and need to change the serpentine drive belt. There are no instructions for it in my shop manual. I know it is a 15mm bolt but I can’t seem to get enough pressure on the closed end wrench to move the tensioner. Is there a special wrench I need? I have tried torque wrench, ½ drives and I cannot clear the fan to get the socket on. I do not want to go back to the dealer. He had the CRD 3 times to do F 37.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:35 pm 
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Unless the belt is showing signs of damage or checking I wouldn't change it, they should last longer than 40,000 miles. I haven't messed with mine yet but the trucks I use a rachet, socket and a 3 foot length of pipe as a cheater.

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 Post subject: Re: Secret to serpentine drive belt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:23 pm 
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Bubba wrote:
Okay, I am right at 40,000 miles and need to change the serpentine drive belt. There are no instructions for it in my shop manual. I know it is a 15mm bolt but I can’t seem to get enough pressure on the closed end wrench to move the tensioner. Is there a special wrench I need? I have tried torque wrench, ½ drives and I cannot clear the fan to get the socket on. I do not want to go back to the dealer. He had the CRD 3 times to do F 37.

I haven't looked at the tensioner on the CRD but a belt tensioner usually has a square recessed area to take a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. It's usually not a raised bolt-head.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:32 am 
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No 1/2 in slot that I can see. Here is what I am looking at

Image
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:24 am 
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From the diagram it looks like the tensioner is on the left side of the fan further down, I assume that is why they have the arrow pointing to it. I've been working am 12 hours shifts where it's dark coming and going or I'd have taken a peek.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:31 pm 
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They make a special wrench for changing these belts I have a set they are long and thin.
The belt in your pic doesnt look like it needs changed-not even close. They really last a very long time.
My cummins ram has 16500 miles and its on the 2nd belt.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:22 pm 
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pizzadigger wrote:
They make a special wrench for changing these belts I have a set they are long and thin.
The belt in your pic doesnt look like it needs changed-not even close. They really last a very long time.
My cummins ram has 16500 miles and its on the 2nd belt.

Do you grab the tensioner arm on the back-side with a very thin wrench? Wrench is @ 1/8 inch thick, looks like it was cut out of a peice of heavy sheet metal? We called those "playschool" wrenches around the bus garage.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:39 pm 
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pizzadigger wrote:
They make a special wrench for changing these belts I have a set they are long and thin.
The belt in your pic doesnt look like it needs changed-not even close. They really last a very long time.
My cummins ram has 16500 miles and its on the 2nd belt.


Sears has a set of what you discribe along with some real stubby sockets for it :!:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 2:59 pm 
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From what I see from the picture of your belt, I wouldn't change it unless it's squealing.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 3:06 pm 
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The bolt through the center of the pulley is a 16mm. Put a wrench on it and pull it up out of the way. If I remember correctly, when you move the tensioner to the complete extent of its travel away from the belt, there should be two holes that line up so that you can hold the tensioner out of the way while renewing the belt.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:10 pm 
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Ok, I see one at Sears and I will give that a try. There goes my gift card.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:20 pm 
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Pizzadigger, RFCRD, Joe Romas- The sears tool worked like a charm. It took about 5 minutes to replace. Now believe it or not it is back to the dealer tonight. It got SE Texas cold (mid 30’s) and the transmission shifts extremely hard between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th when from a cold overnight start. Once the transmission fluid warms up the shifts are fine. This F37 may put the final nail in the coffin for the CRD. Yes I have checked the fluid level and it is full.


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