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 Post subject: Inverter Location
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:26 am 
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I'm looking for a spot to put a 1500 watt inverter in the CRD. Under the hood real estate is at a premium. It might fit between the battery and the fuel filter with some kind of support bracket. Removal would be required when changing the fuel filter.

Another possible location is under the driver's seat. Wiring might be run under the trim piece.

Hate to use the "glove box".

The area used by the tow harness seems pretty full, and heat dissipation is a concern.

Any ideas?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:30 am 
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I think there is an area in the back that is reserved for a factory cd changer, perhaps you could put it there? Passengers side I believe.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:47 am 
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Jeger wrote:
I think there is an area in the back that is reserved for a factory cd changer, perhaps you could put it there? Passengers side I believe.


I think that's where I stuffed the tow harness. Heat could be a problem there. The inverter has an internal fan, but the air has to circulate.
Routing the heavier battery wires is a factor.

Wobbly


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 11:13 am 
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im so glad this topic came up... ive been having thesame prob and pretty much gave up on looking for a place.

its always one or the other; no place to run the wire or not enough room to mount the inverter...

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 2:02 pm 
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Seems to me that some have put them under the drivers side rear seat.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 4:07 pm 
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I was thinking about this. There seems to be some space if you go lower into the engine compartment...but you run out of places to mount it and it will get wet/dirty. Have you looked up under the dashboard? I used to find lots of space up there in older cars...

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 5:32 pm 
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How big is the inverter? It could go under the rear bench (if there's enough space with the bench folded forward) or under the passenger or driver seat. I have an amp under the driver's seat and a two-way radio under the passenger seat. Plenty of room there and easy to run wires. It's also easy to remove the seats to mount equipment under them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Stan Wright wrote:
How big is the inverter? It could go under the rear bench (if there's enough space with the bench folded forward) or under the passenger or driver seat. I have an amp under the driver's seat and a two-way radio under the passenger seat. Plenty of room there and easy to run wires. It's also easy to remove the seats to mount equipment under them.


This capacity inverter is available in different shapes. The unit I bought is 16.4" L x 9.5" W x 3.3" H.

Wobbly


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 11:52 am 
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DId you ever find a spot?

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CAT 2 Fuel Filter
Fumoto Drain Valve
EGR replaced at 50K
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Sold 7/21/10 125k miles
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 1:54 pm 
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I have a 1000W class D mono block subwoofer amp under my drivers side rear bench seat with 4ga power and ground wires going to it. I don't think you would have any trouble with an inverter under there. For your 12V positive power feed wire, just punch through the side wall at the rubber grommet that the throttle cable would normally go through (our CRD throttles are fly-by-wire, so no throttle cable here). This grommet is above the accelerator pedal. Good luck, and post up here if you have any more questions.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 2:08 pm 
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i know there is room there... however how easy is it to get to? a car amp is for the most part hands off... where with this you would be pluging in and oout alot. and i dont really like the idea of an extention cord running around in the back seat...

I would love to find a place in back cargo area...

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05 CRD
3" Rough Country Lift
SAMCO SPORT Hoses
Magnaflow Muffler (12226)
CAT 2 Fuel Filter
Fumoto Drain Valve
EGR replaced at 50K
in service 8/31/04
Sold 7/21/10 125k miles
----------------------------------------------------------
Paved Roads, another form of unnecessary government spending...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 3:07 pm 
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When you open the dirvers side rear door, if you place the inverter under the seat with the outlets facing out, it would be easy to plug something in there, only porblem is that you would have to stop the vehicle and get out to plug something in or out. Not really for making connections while the vehicle is in motion but if you plug your appliance in before the start of the trip and leave it pluged in until you come to a stop, then it would be fine.

Another thought, how about mounting it to the back of the back seat, up high over cargo so it can get air, and offset to the drivers side?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 9:50 pm 
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skywarn wrote:
DId you ever find a spot?


The inverter just arrived today. The instructions say not to mount in the engine compartment.
Under a seat would be OK, because I will be running a cord with waterproof connector out alongside the 7-wire receptacle. I intend to power a semi-smart battery charger in our travel trailer. This setup will permit efficient charging of our trailer battery when boondocking.


Last edited by Wobbly on Sat May 12, 2007 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 11:08 pm 
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I intend to power a semi-smart battery charger in our travel trailer. This setup will permit efficient charging of our trailer battery when boondocking.

???
You plan to have your Liberty battery run the 1500 w inverter which will charge the trailer battery? ?
pulling only 1000w from the inverter will draw nearly 100 amps from the battery. Not letting the discharge go below 50% gives you 20 minutes. As the inverter gets farther from the battery cable size increases quickly. 00 cable is $8 per foot. The alternator can't keep up with the draw. The inverter has to be true sine wave to run the rv charger.
Better to buy http://www.cumminsonan.com/portable/products/inverter Yamaha also has them.
or http://www.cumminsonan.com/rv/products/hitch

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 1:50 am 
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impulse wrote:
I intend to power a semi-smart battery charger in our travel trailer. This setup will permit efficient charging of our trailer battery when boondocking.

???
You plan to have your Liberty battery run the 1500 w inverter which will charge the trailer battery? ?
pulling only 1000w from the inverter will draw nearly 100 amps from the battery. Not letting the discharge go below 50% gives you 20 minutes. As the inverter gets farther from the battery cable size increases quickly. 00 cable is $8 per foot. The alternator can't keep up with the draw. The inverter has to be true sine wave to run the rv charger.
Better to buy http://www.cumminsonan.com/portable/products/inverter Yamaha also has them.
or http://www.cumminsonan.com/rv/products/hitch



Here are the specs for the converter-charger:
13 amps AC input
950W DC input power
55 amps DC output current
Set Point 55 amps

The bulk stage battery charging rate must not be excessive to avoid the situation you describe. I'm not sure how to do this. Unfortunately, the charger Tech Support person wasn't helpful when asked about possible complications.

I think that pure sine wave is required for some power tool chargers, but modified sine wave works for RV converter-chargers.

The inverter has a low battery alarm and also a low voltage shut off.


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 Post subject: inverter info sites
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 3:04 am 
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ANSWER: "Square Modified Sine Wave" inverters will run most tools and appliances without any problem and are the most common type of inverter on the market. Below are the advantages of "Pure Sine Wave" (also called True Sine Wave) inverters over modified sine wave inverters:
1. Reduces audible and electrical noise in fans, audio amplifiers, TV and some sensitive audio system.
2. Inductive loads like microwave ovens and motors might run faster, quieter and cooler.
3. The following devices that might not work with modified sine wave inverters:
- Some battery chargers for cordless tools
- Some new furnaces and pellet stoves with microprocessor control
- Sensitive electrical or electronic items such as certain medical equipment
(BACK TO TOP

Good info here
http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?Pa ... stom&ID=40


http://www.boatus.com/boattech/inverters.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 11:48 am 
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There's a current versus time chart for a similar, but not identical, converter charger at:
http://www.dudesrv.com/WFCOTheRealDirt.htm

It shows that the 45 amp rated converter had an initial output of 60 amps. This decayed to 45 amps in 14 minutes, and the decay continued to about 20 amps after 30 minutes from start of test.

Wobbly


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