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| Author: | cutezangel [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 12:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | oil filter |
Can anyone recommend an oil filter, need to do an oil change and would like to know the best oil filter to ues for the CRD. Thanks |
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: oil filter |
cutezangel wrote: Can anyone recommend an oil filter, need to do an oil change and would like to know the best oil filter to ues for the CRD.
Thanks Amsoil EAO34 or EAO26 for a little more capacity. |
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| Author: | RTStabler51 [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I just use the Puralator PureOne |
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| Author: | DarbyWalters [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ea034 oil fliter and EaA201 air filter...both Amsoil. Good quality products. I would not use the longer on the CRD because of how low the OEM sits. |
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| Author: | KJMedic [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
RTStabler51 wrote: I just use the Puralator PureOne
Ditto. I use the same. |
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| Author: | LanduytG [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that. Greg |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
NAPA gold, or now you can get a Motorcraft at my Walmart for it. Either is a good filter. |
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 4:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Click here >>Amsoil products at Cost for more info. |
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| Author: | DarbyWalters [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
LanduytG wrote: By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that.
Greg I don't think anyone is "tricking" people on this forum. Also, 25K is a realistic OCI (Oil Change Interval) but an UOA (Oil Analysis) would be a good idea during that time/length interval to make sure the oil is standing up and protecting. Once you have done some UOA's and had positive results them you can go for extended intervals with confidence. With UOA's results in hand, warranty issue coverge will be easier to back up at dealerships. |
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| Author: | Cowpie1 [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
DarbyWalters wrote: LanduytG wrote: By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that. Greg I don't think anyone is "tricking" people on this forum. Also, 25K is a realistic OCI (Oil Change Interval) but an UOA (Oil Analysis) would be a good idea during that time/length interval to make sure the oil is standing up and protecting. Once you have done some UOA's and had positive results them you can go for extended intervals with confidence. With UOA's results in hand, warranty issue coverge will be easier to back up at dealerships. Absolutely!!! Do a few oil analysis samples for gauge how the oil is holding up! Don't go to extended oil changes on ANYTHING without doing oil samples and checking. Each engine, like each woman, is different. Only oil analysis will let you know change interval. I like doing the analysis to check on the status on the engine. It is like a "blood test" and can let you know of a problem before it ruins the engine, like a coolant leak or a bad injector. |
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| Author: | vtdog [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm sorry, I just don't get the hype about Amsoil products. If the oil is so wonderful, why do they not participate in the API testing which shows minimum standards. I realize they have a "botique" status, but without testing who really knows for sure. Yes I have heard the stories, (" I got a million miles on my Kenworth, etc) but without independant tests it is just that-anecdotal stories. To me, oil arguments are like the two kids yelling about who is better: Batman, or Superman. |
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| Author: | chadhargis [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I agree. Today's oils are so much better than they were 15 or 20 years ago. Yes, you can still buy el cheapo bargan basement oil and go wrong, but buying oil from any big name manfacturer is safe. Ever pay attention to the analysis data on oil. Look at the measurements. PPM...that stands for parts per million. Even see a million of something. It's a LOT. So when you start talking about a difference of a few hundred PPMs, that's like peeing in the ocean. You aren't going to notice a difference. All the miracle stories about fuel mileage improving, HP and torque jumping up 5 or 6 numbers, yadda, yadda, yadda...in my opinion is just BS. Change your oil. It's cheap. Use a good brand of synthetic oil. Amsoil, Red Line, Mobile, Shell, etc. Change it every 5000 miles or so. Why in the heck would you want extended drain intervals unless you're driving a big rig for a living. CRDs are daily drivers. Most of us aren't pulling 60,000+lbs around all day. Don't worry about it. Just change it and drive. |
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| Author: | DarbyWalters [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well test oils on a dyno and you can see differences...power and temps. I raced for Mazda and did plenty of testing with oils and coatings. Oil analysis can tell you about a problem before it is terminal. Different metals mean different things and can point you to the right solution. They can even let you know that dirty air is getting past your air filter, if you have a coolant of fuel leak, ect. They give you much more information than TBN left. I do agree that if you just change your oil on a regular and frequent basis...you will just fine 90% of the time. The thing about "mileage increases"...those are very hard to measure short term but better wear patterns using synthetics keeps your engine "newer" and will give you more "mileage-fuel" and "mileage-age" IMHO. |
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| Author: | Cowpie1 [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The main thrust of the discussion I thought was originally oil filters and extended intervals. That is what led to the Oil Analysis discussion that Darby and I suggested. It is not a matter of what oil brand you use. It is always good to do oil analysis to check on status of oil and engine. If you don't want to use Amsoil, don't. No one is pulling on anyone's body parts and forcing them to use one product over another. Just because Amsoil does not want to spend the approx $100K on EACH oil grade just to get an API rating does not mean anything. Independent testing has shown Amsoil exceeding just about every oil out on the market, including Mobil 1. Also, most of the oils sold do not provide a written warranty regarding the product as Amsoil does. If you are happy with Mobil 1, Rotella, etc stick with them. Don't you love just living in a country where you can choose what you want? I hope we always have so many choices. It makes the buying fun! |
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| Author: | chadhargis [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I agree that a UOA is a good idea. I've done a few on my motorcycles, but I ride them hard and take them to the track. HP per liter is WAY higher than cars. Now, my CRD spends most of its time plodding along turning 2,000 rpm. It's not a sports car, and I don't drive it like one. I do tow from time to time, but nothing extreme. Maybe 2000lbs tops, most of the time much less (like 1200). Funny thing about new oils...I know a guy who claims that any vehicle will go 100,000 miles without doing any maintenance other than changing the engine oil once a YEAR. Yep...once a year. His logic is that he's going to sell his car before 100,000 miles and he'll get just as much for it as those of us who carefully maintain our. His theory is that we'll both take a huge loss when we sell, only he won't have to experience the cost of mantaining the vehicle. I can't tell you how many PERFECT cars I've sold just because I got tired of them. I maintain my vehicles in excess of factory reccomendations. I am very anal about my cars and bikes. I take good care of them. I actually enjoy maintaining them. Every car I've sold has been perfect in every way, yet I took a loss on the sell, and lost all the time and money I put into the car. |
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| Author: | BVCRD [ Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
chadhargis wrote: I agree that a UOA is a good idea. I've done a few on my motorcycles, but I ride them hard and take them to the track. HP per liter is WAY higher than cars.
Now, my CRD spends most of its time plodding along turning 2,000 rpm. It's not a sports car, and I don't drive it like one. I do tow from time to time, but nothing extreme. Maybe 2000lbs tops, most of the time much less (like 1200). Funny thing about new oils...I know a guy who claims that any vehicle will go 100,000 miles without doing any maintenance other than changing the engine oil once a YEAR. Yep...once a year. His logic is that he's going to sell his car before 100,000 miles and he'll get just as much for it as those of us who carefully maintain our. His theory is that we'll both take a huge loss when we sell, only he won't have to experience the cost of mantaining the vehicle. I can't tell you how many PERFECT cars I've sold just because I got tired of them. I maintain my vehicles in excess of factory reccomendations. I am very anal about my cars and bikes. I take good care of them. I actually enjoy maintaining them. Every car I've sold has been perfect in every way, yet I took a loss on the sell, and lost all the time and money I put into the car. I agree with you and your guys thinking. Oil anaysis can be useful for troubleshooting or trying to "milk" every last mile out of its useful life. But for the regular Joe, and those of use that trade our vehicles in every 2-3 years, it is probably a waste. If you are one that changes the oil every 3-5000 miles, and then trades it in within say, 4 years, you have done the next owner a great service. Have you helped yourself in the process? Not counting piece of mind, probably not. |
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| Author: | KJbob [ Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I performed oil analysis on my CRD because I was/am considering extended oil change intervals. This is the first vehicle I performed oil analysis on and I'm glad I did. The analysis helped me determine a realistic and reliable interval to change my oil. The huge thing it did for me was provide evidence of a poor air intake system. I changed over to the '02 airbox and silicone levels dropped significantly (around 35%). Was the expense and extra effort of oil analysis worth it to me? YES! Oil anlaysis also helps me "document" for purposes of my extended warranty that I am performing routine maintenance (oil changes at least) on my CRD. Plus, I'm putting alot of miles on my CRD; in a little over 3 years, Ill have 100k on this vehicle. I'm a big believer in oil analysis now. I'll probably perform it on all of my future vehicles. |
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| Author: | retmil46 [ Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the vehicle is just a weekend toy or a hobby project, then yes you'll end up losing money in the long run any way you look at it. OTOH, if it's a daily driver, your primary commuter or work vehicle that enables you to earn a living, money spent on regular maintenance to extend it's life as long as possible after it's paid off will enable you to earn far more money in the long run that what the original purchase price and yearly maintenance cost you. It's like the difference between a plantation owner who spends money to buy and maintain a race horse to run in the Kentucky Derby once a year and the rest of the time is lolling out in the pasture, and a farmer who buys a horse to plow his fields so he can grow crops to feed his family and pull his wagon to market to sell those same crops. That '87 Subaru wagon I had cost me $12K brand new, and toward the end of it's life I was spending around $500/year on maintenance. Over it's 20 year life, that car enabled me to earn far more money in just one year than what it's original purchase price and lifetime maintenance probably cost me, and 15 of those years were sans a monthly car payment. |
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| Author: | Cowcatcher [ Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I too did my first oil analysis on my CRD and for several reasons. > I purchased it during a special program that included 25K service at 5K intervals. That promotion is passed and I will be self-maintaining from now on and I wanted a baseline of where it was under dealer maitenance. > With self-maintenance I will be changing to AMSOIL oil filters and Rotella and likely move from 5K service intervals to 10K intervals. I will likely pull another test about 3K>5K into that change of filters and oil to see if it has affected wear and also to see if 10K service intervals are reasonable. I think that is well worth $43. > Finally, I plan on keeping this Jeep a very long time. |
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| Author: | Tinman [ Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Here's my take on extended oil change intervals: The trick with long change intervals is filtering. Most stock, full flow (that is, all the oil goes thru the filter from the oil pump) filters filter to 10 microns. The oils we have today are good enough to go a lot longer that a full flow filter will allow, especially full synthetic which can be used indefinitely. The problem is that extending the change interval with a full flow filter will be build up particules of <10 microns which is resposible for a lot of wear. In order to safely extend the interval, a bypass filter of some type will need to be used to filter to <10 microns. This combined with analysis can allow one to use very long intervals safely. I looked into this for my Cummins and ultimately decided against it. However, I have done analysis on my 01 Cummins and have increased my interval from 3K to 5K on dino oil and standard filter. The AMSoil guys will tell you that it is cost effective to change over to full synthetic, bypass filter, oil analysis and only change the filters for maintainance. (Change the oil only if analysis indicates). That's probably true and much more convienet that changing oil every so often. However, the newer engines of today, CRD included, are built to very high tolerances and this keeps the sooting of the oil much lower allowing for longer intervals on regular oil and filters. (The 06 Cummins has a 15000 mile interaval on the light duty schedule). So I haven't been convienced to change over yet. If you are going to try to extend you interval, be sure you monitor things closely and have good filtering. |
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