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ORM problem, Never Mind
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22725		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:16 pm ]
Post subject:  ORM problem, Never Mind
During hot weather I have been having problems with my a/c. It would start out cooling fine and then when the engine gets warm it would quit cooling very erratically. I took it to the dealer before leaving Delaware and it put out 38 F for them when in the shop. Of course when I left the weather got hot later in the day and a/c starter performing badly.

I had to leave for a trip from the east coast to the west coast so I hooked up the gauges and checked pressure. It looked like it was a little low so I added a can of Freon with dye in it. I stuck a thermometer in the center duct and left for the west coast the next morning.

I noticed that the a/c would still quit and would watch the gauge go from 50 to 80 then back down so often. I continue to northwest Washington where the temperatures high are usually in the 70 during the worse part of the summer. Of course I didn’t have any problems when I was there for the pass month.

I left Washington four days ago and had trouble as soon as I got to eastern Washington. When I got to Montana the temperature outside hit 100 F and the a/c center duct would only put out 90 F most of the time. This is with me driving at 70 mph! I noticed that when I coasted down a long grade that the a/c temperature would start putting out 60 F.

The first thing the next morning in I took it to a dealership and it shows 45 F out the center duct for them of course. As soon as I left and hit I90, the a/c quit again. I began to figure that something was getting hot and the ECM was shutting the a/c down. I know that the engine temperature gauge always stayed in the middle so I was stumped.

At the next rest area I lifted the hood and plugged the MAF back in and went on my way. To my surprise that solved the problem for the temperature out the center duct stayed 40 – 50 F for the rest of the trip to the east coast.

Can anybody tell me why???? :arrow:
Author:  Pablo [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: ORM problem
BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
During hot weather I have been having problems with my a/c...

The first thing the next morning in I took it to a dealership and it shows 45 F out the center duct for them of course. As soon as I left and hit I90, the a/c quit again. I began to figure that something was getting hot and the ECM was shutting the a/c down. I know that the engine temperature gauge always stayed in the middle so I was stumped.

At the next rest area I lifted the hood and plugged the MAF back in and went on my way. To my surprise that solved the problem for the temperature out the center duct stayed 40 – 50 F for the rest of the trip to the east coast.

Can anybody tell me why????


The ac exchanger is one piece with the Tranny heat exchanger. If the tranny gets real hot... then the ac is probably shut off or has to fight the heat saturation. The engine guage won't budge at all, as the engine is probably still running cool. As for why the tranny would be running so hot while cruising, I don't know. I would check the fluid level, though. I have driven mine in Southern AZ in 118+ at 75 mph and never had it fail to blow cool air.

But I don't think the ORM has anything to do with it, BTW.
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
I haven't had any trans problems and if I recall there is a trans temp light if it overheats. I am thinking that the exhaust and turbo runs hotter with the ORM. I know the transmission level is fine and the problem with the a/c went away when I plugged the MAF sensor back in. I'm so confused about this one.
Author:  retmil46 [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Actually, if I remember correctly, people that were able to monitor EGT's said that exhaust temps actually went DOWN with the ORM - in particular I remember one post where a gent mentioned that with the ORM that cooldown time for the turbo was reduced to virtually nil once parked.

Might be some weird tie-in on the electrical side of the house that's causing it. Have you done any mods that would involve the electrical/electronic circuits that might be having an effect?
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
The only mods it have K&N performance air filter and the V-Force muffler that is the same as a flowmwster 40. There is no electrical mod at all since I undid the ORM. I'm not even running a chip. When I plugged the MAF back in, the CEL turned off the during third start during the trip. The only other problem I had during the trip is that I had to burp the fuel filter once on the way out west and once coming back east. No fuel leak but it has be bleed every few thousand miles of the built up air in the fuel system.
Author:  Cowcatcher [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
One would think that others running the ORM would have seen the problem too. Me for instance with the hot weather we have had this summer.
Author:  Endurance [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
I live in Alabama and it gets REALLY hot down here. Mine takes some time to cool the entire vehicle on hot days but the gauge sais its blowing 38-40F air.
Author:  Pablo [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Maybe, if it is ORM, it is a combination of it and something else that are acting together and causing it. It seems wierd that the heat would increase enough to kill the ac, but the engine coolant would still be in spec. Could it be the belt is slipping? Maybe the mechanical clutch fan (or the alternator) and the ac pulley don't like being engaged together, but the ac works fine otherwise?
Author:  hatchetman [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Couple of things to check. Is the low pressure cut-off for the AC working, as does the AC compressor cycle? If not evaporater freezes over and no cooling. Is the belt slipping(not tight or tensioner weak)? Does the heater control valve or heater door(don't know which our CRD has) leaking thru? Blocked airflow thru condensor. Clean area at carwash. Just a few things to check. Good luck. We drove to FL in June and our AC nearly froze us out on the highway during the day as in almost too cold. Wife had to cover-up with a blanket when riding as a passenger. :evil:
Author:  kb61751 [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
No problem with mine, it has been hot here, and have had the ORM for about 15000 miles or so.
Author:  onthehunt [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
There was some people having fan clutch issues awhile back. Usually when they go bad they lock up though.
Author:  CHessMaster [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Had exactly the same problem with mine.

The dealer found that the A/C system was OVERFILLED by 1 full pound of freon from the factory.

Good luck.....
Author:  JDaPP [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
I did not have that problem, but I changed my air filter and my oil and then the liberty would sputter and die or if it did run when you slowed or stopped it would skip like it wanted to cut out. I checked the codes and got a 401 code and the 102 (I always get 102 with ORM). I undid the ORM and I did not have any more problems or the 401 code. After running it for a day I unplugged again and have not had any more problems. Weird.
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the replieds, I'm thinking of disconneting the battery for about 30 min. to clear the computer. I never done that and who know what could be going on. The a/c was cycling on and off like low freon but guages says it's not. If I start having problems again I may recycle and refill or maybe the orfice valve to restricted. Hmmmm If I recycle and refill, I should replace the orfice while I'm at it..
Author:  Timmaah! [ Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
If I turn off my engine without turning off the air-conditioning compressor switch first, sometimes the electric cooling fan runs on high for a few minutes. Then on the next drive my air does not work at all. When I turn off the compressor first, the electric cooling fan stops immediately and the air works fine on the next drive. If I forget to turn off the compressor switch and the electric cooling fan continues to run I can turn the key switch to accessory and back to on position and the cooling fan stops. Then on the next drive the air works fine. :shock:
Author:  Kniggit [ Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:13 am ]
Post subject: 
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K
Author:  skywarn [ Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Kniggit wrote:
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K


:shock: :shock: did we ever find a way to do that??!!


im still ready to shoot mine!
Author:  Johnboy [ Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
I shut mine off in the dealer parking lot before I drove off....there are instructions in the owners manual. The thing drove me nuts on the test drive. I could type it in a post if you cant find yours..
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Timmaah! wrote:
If I turn off my engine without turning off the air-conditioning compressor switch first, sometimes the electric cooling fan runs on high for a few minutes. Then on the next drive my air does not work at all. When I turn off the compressor first, the electric cooling fan stops immediately and the air works fine on the next drive. If I forget to turn off the compressor switch and the electric cooling fan continues to run I can turn the key switch to accessory and back to on position and the cooling fan stops. Then on the next drive the air works fine. :shock:


That's odd, I did the 30 minute battery disconnect to get the gremlems out of the CPU when I was changing the fuel pre-filter yesterday. It was OK today but started to raise when driving stop and go traffic in 85 F. Not enough to say if it's fixed or not, will try what you say if I still have problems
Author:  widowmaker [ Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
skywarn wrote:
Kniggit wrote:
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K


:shock: :shock: did we ever find a way to do that??!!


im still ready to shoot mine!


Here's how to remove the seat belt alarm...My First Mod
.. The following steps must occur within the first 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to the ON or Start postion. ...

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, and fasten the
drivers seatbelt.
2. Start engine, and wait for Seat Belt warning light to turn OFF.
3. Within 60 seconds of starting engine, unbuckle and then re-buckle
driver's seat belt at least 3 times, ending with belt buckled.
4. Turn off the engine. A single chime will sound to signify that
your life is in your own hands.
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