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 Post subject: new owner 2005 crd liberty
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:34 pm 
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HELP!!!Purchased Jeep 4 months ago, nothing but problems. Turbo hose on driver side ripped, found forum and have been following the advice of the postings on forum. Fuel filter and oil were changed by dealer b4 pickup. Problem now is what has been described as limp mode. So I changed fuel filter, ran good for a couple weeks, problem is back. This time worse than b4. Seems when fuel is low or after it is filled, the problem re-occurs. Except this time when you shut off the engine and restart, it doesn't clear the problem as b4. It's not going away this time, loss of power, and shaking. Checked for air, purged filter, no air left, still will not run right. Leaning toward fuel pump problem. Can anyone shed some light on this?? Worse vehicle I ever bought. Check engine light is on, code reads " fuel leak " but I find no leaks.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:39 pm 
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what are the specifs codes you are getting(eg number 0299)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 2:30 pm 
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When you changed the filter and it ran better-- did you look in the old filter to see if it was plugged with crud or goo or if it had water in it? If the filter keeps getting plugged and stops flowing freely and the crap plastic fuel assembly has a little leak-- could that cause it to start pulling air in instead of fuel?

I would also check the tightness of the filter if you have not already.

What does the stealer say about this vehicles history? Did you pay the fee to transfer the warranty (7/70) to you? Is there any way to contact the old owner and get the vehicles history?


That fuel pump is way expensive, hope that is not your issue.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:22 pm 
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Sometimes the "O" ring on the old fuel filter stays on the head and you end up with two and an air leak. I would also check the filter head heater plug for a leak.

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Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:34 pm 
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Thanks guys for the suggestions, really like the help you guys provide on this forum. I borrowed the code reader, wrote down the code but now I cannot find it! Fuel filter is only 1-1/2 week old, ran good till yesterday. Today checked gaskets, no problem found there, re-tightened filter, still no difference. Purchased the Jeep from a local used car dealer, he picked it up at Auction in PA. Carfax shows it was a fleet vehicle for 1 year 7 months b4 sale to me. Mileage is 42,000, bumper to bumper warranty is expired. Did not know you had to pay fee to transfer the 7/70 warranty, wasnt aware it was necessary in NY state. Back to problem, can you prime filter while engine is running by opening bleeder valve and pumping? I have tried both, engine running and not running. With engine off, itgets some air out but not when running. Fuel flows slowly when running out of bleeder.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:50 pm 
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fuel system is vacuum - if you open the bleeder while it's running it'll pull in air - which is very, very bad for the fuel pump, because it's lubricated by the fuel - air can kill it. With the engine off - 1st pump 1-2 time to build pressure - then open the bleeder valve - just like bleeding brakes.


FYI - FSM - be patient 80+Meg PDF
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=24600&highlight=manual

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Thanks for the info. Only tried it once today for a second. Didn't think it sucked too much air in the bleeder for the brief second I had it opened. Shut off vehicle, bled the fuel filter, very little air came out. Closed bleeder valve, started vehicle, no change. Would air in the fuel be the only cause of the Jeeep going into limp mode?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:25 pm 
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Tell us more of your symptoms.

True "Limp" mode is generally caused by one of the computers seeing something it doesn't like and shifting you into first or second gear and leaving you there. I believe it will always throw a code to your check engine light ("CEL").

Many here use the same term for a condition that none of us really understand but think is related to lack of fuel or too much air in the fuel. It seldom or every throws a code. It feels like the CRD is running on one or two cylinders, gives ample RPM and no power with very rough running. Generally it clears with a minute or so of shut down.

It is also interesting that the manual says absolutely nothing about opening the bleeder to purge air from the system. It tells you to pump until firm and the fuel pump will purge the air.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


Last edited by Cowcatcher on Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:25 pm 
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The 'standard' limp mode is a 1 time shot - turn off/on and it's gone - typically does not repeat
if you have ongoing - problem - stumbling, stalling - it's probably something else - although most I've heard of correlated to some sort of fuel problem - water/algae growth in diesel is not uncommon
was this close to a fill up? - new station?

The air leaks tend to be an ongoing problem is some vehicles - but they don't just dramatically start - they may gradually get worse. but not - 'ran great until yesterday' - that sounds more like bad fuel or something broke - broke should give you an ongoing CEL.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:47 pm 
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The problem started around August, about 1 month after purchase. I'd be driving 50-60 MPH, jeep sounded great, ran great, suddenly it feels like I have no power. Once or twice it actually staled and engine quit, I had to pull off the road, shut off key, wait a few minutes, restart, and the one time it ran in limp mode, the other time it ran fine. When it has no power, if feels like its running on 1-2 cylinders, and sounds rough running. Regarding the diesel, we get our diesel from different locations, mostly in 2-3 locations in our Town but a few times out of state. I can go for 1-2 weeks w/o the problem happening. When it does happen, it always has suddenly stopped after 4-5 miles of driving in limp mode or after turning off engine and waiting a few minutes. But when it happened yesterday in the middle of town, I kepr driving it (about 20-30 mph top speed), pulled in the driveway after traveling 10 miles, shut it off for a few hours. Restarted it, no change at all, runs rough, no power.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:44 pm 
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Is the CEL on?

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 10:04 pm 
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I would stop driving it until you get the cause of the symptoms fixed. If it is throwing a code related to an air leak-- that means it has a pretty big air leak and a mechanic with the proper tools ought to be able to find where it is pulling the air in, which is probably a simple (cheap) fix. If you keep driving it the way it is you are going to get to spend $4000 for a new pump, if it is not already too late.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:45 am 
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Cowcatcher wrote:
[snip]
It is also interesting that the manual says absolutely nothing about opening the bleeder to purge air from the system. It tells you to pump until firm and the fuel pump will purge the air.


Dave.

The "Standard Procedure" in the manual says to push plunger till resistance is felt then open the bleeder and let the air out, repeat till plunger stays firm. FSM section 14-36, pdf page 4291, steps 2 and 3.. I slip a clear tube over the nipple, open it, then pump till no air and just fuel comes out :lol: Of course this has not been needed since I put on alift pump :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:42 am 
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I have had limp mode twice and both times I was taking a corner and my Jeep was about to down shift to pick up speed. It's something I have never seen on any vehicle and it is dangerous. Why the Diesels do this is unknown, but it should be addressed by Jeep. Lots of bugs in these vehicles that need to be addressed. Shutter, limp modes, torque converters, ball joints, fuel heater leaks which may cause fires. Did I miss anything. My wife tells me get rid of that thing and buy something more reliable. I won't, I still like it. Someday though I just may get fed up with this nonsense. My Jeep has been running good except for the limp mode buisness. With the price of deisel fuel today, they sure are not making it easy to keep.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:24 am 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Cowcatcher wrote:
[snip]
It is also interesting that the manual says absolutely nothing about opening the bleeder to purge air from the system. It tells you to pump until firm and the fuel pump will purge the air.


Dave.

The "Standard Procedure" in the manual says to push plunger till resistance is felt then open the bleeder and let the air out, repeat till plunger stays firm. FSM section 14-36, pdf page 4291, steps 2 and 3.. I slip a clear tube over the nipple, open it, then pump till no air and just fuel comes out :lol: Of course this has not been needed since I put on alift pump :D

Joe


I should have been more clear Joe. The owners manual, the only one most owners kinda, sorta, read, mentions nothing about opening the bleeder on page 222 as follows:

Should your vehicle run out of fuel, the fuel system must
be re-primed in order to start the engine. Factors such as
temperature, which affects the viscosity of the fuel, how
long the vehicle has been sitting and other factors will
influence how quickly the engine starts.
Re-Priming the Diesel Fuel System
The following procedure must be followed after completely
running out of fuel.
1. Add a minimum of 2 gallons (7.57L) of diesel fuel to
the fuel tank.
2. Open the hood.
3. Depress the fuel-water separator knob 20 consecutive
times. (They show the prime pump here in the photo)
4. Turn the ignition to START and crank the engine a
maximum of 10 seconds. If the engine does not start,
repeat Step 3.
NOTE: The engine will typically start within 10 seconds;
the engine will idle then stall, purging air from the
fuel lines and filter.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Hi All! Good news and bad news. I'll tell ya the good news-dealer picked up Jeep yesterday A.M., the problem code was P0202 which is "bad injector circuit module". Mechanic found the plug to the module for injectors was broke. When he moved the wires to the plug, it ran fine. When he let go, it ran like crap, he said. He replaced the plug harness, total bill=$135.00 (Sweet) Now the bad news-my Jeep doesn't have 7/70 warranty on it. Apparently, never had it, came with 36mon/36000 mi, what's up with that for new vehicle. Unfortunately, Mechanic said Chrysler has some vehicles with that warranty. The idiot used car dealer that I bought it from, tried to sell me extended warranty, he said it had 7/70, I said "no thanks" to the extended warranty for that reason. Now I'm stuck with no warranty at all. Does anyone have the 36/36 or 7/70, let me know. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:46 am 
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My 06 has the 3/36, but I purchased the extended warranty 6/85 thou. 05's had the 7/70 and the 06 had the 3/36.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:30 pm 
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I'm wondering if its purchase as a 'fleet vehicle' is why its warranty is not standard for that year, might have been part of the deal(reduced warranty terms)..

Glad he found the issue, fairly simple fix.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Reflex wrote:
I'm wondering if its purchase as a 'fleet vehicle' is why its warranty is not standard for that year, might have been part of the deal(reduced warranty terms)..

Glad he found the issue, fairly simple fix.


The 05's 7/70 was for the power train only and does not include anything mounted on the engine, just stuff in it. I don't recall what the bumper to bumper is on the 05's. The 06 models have a 3/36 bumper to bumper :D

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:34 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Reflex wrote:
I'm wondering if its purchase as a 'fleet vehicle' is why its warranty is not standard for that year, might have been part of the deal(reduced warranty terms)..

Glad he found the issue, fairly simple fix.


The 05's 7/70 was for the power train only and does not include anything mounted on the engine, just stuff in it. I don't recall what the bumper to bumper is on the 05's. The 06 models have a 3/36 bumper to bumper :D
The '05s have the same 3/36 bumper-bumper. Mine is expiring soon.

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