I'm looking to change over to the fumoto valve,but something
inside me cringes when thinking of a valve hanging down?
I have full belly,yet still can see something going wrong.
Whats the verdict?

The original valves required. The second one does not use a adapter and is about 3/4" shorter. I have the longer installed and will put on the shorter one the next oil change The new one with the nipple sticks down a inch and a half from the pan surface.

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Hi Joe.
It sounds like you have the same one I have. The F-108 and the adapter for it. I also have the F-102 which I have not
tried yet. My question is. If you look at the adapter for the 108, it has a shoulder on it like the original drain plug has.
The F-102 has no shoulder on it. I know that some of the problems of some has come from installing the drain without
the copper washer on it because this shoulder creases the first threads of the pan.
I think what I am asking is does this shoulder on the drain have any real purpose? Installing the F-102 with no shoulder
and a washer is not going to leak?

Thanks
Steve

My concern with the fumoto is whether it creates a lip inside the pan where the valve screws up through. This would keep some of the oil, and likely the collected crud in the bottom of the pan, from draining out. Has anyone seen the inside of an oil pan with one of these screwed in? Or have any comments on whether this should be a concern?

I wouldn't sweat it. Most pans don't drain that completely anyway. A typical stamped steel pan would have a thread boss on the inside and create much the same scenario you're talking about. The cast pan on the CRD is pretty thick, there may not be as much protrusion as you think. If you want to take the time, the fumoto could either be shortened or grooved on the end to allow for better drainage.