The other thing I noticed when looking under the hood for clues about the overheating noted in my other post today, I found the power steering fluid level up to the very top of the resevoir and quite strongly bubbling (boiling?). It stopped in about 5-7 min and the level returned to the "full hot" mark.

Is this normal in relatively hot weather or is something awry?

Thanks for your input.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

If your fluid is hot i would check your calipers arent dragging.Go for a five minute drive and when you get back feel the wheels carefully for excessive heat,if a wheel is hotter than the others it will be due to a sticking caliper,and this could also be the cause of your overheating as the engine would be working harder to keep you in motion due to the brake drag.

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2004 2.8 crd Limited

Power steering fluid is separate from brake fluid. What makes you think a dragging brake would heat up the power steering fluid?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

My mistake m8 misread your post apologies.Been a long day.

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2004 2.8 crd Limited

What did you use for power steering fluid??

my manual calls for ATF+4 for power steering. If you put in normal PS fluid its going to boil off.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Bugnout,

Excellent point. We bought the Jeep used with 17K on it. The PS resevoir was a little low, so I topped up with Mopar +4, but I have no idea what may have been put in there before. Sounds like the thing to do is to replace all the PS fluid. Does this require special equipment or can it be done in a home garage?

Thanks!

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I believe the TSB was release sometime in 2003, so your 2005 should have come with ATF in it.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650

I'd try to pull out as much as possible using a turkey baster or something like that after you've warmed it up for a while and then refill with ATF +4.

I'm not sure if there is anywhere to drain it easily.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I have always done it the lazy way... used an electronic pump and emptied out the reservoir and refilled it. That only gets about 1/3 of it.

I have not done so, but I would imagine you can block the frame up leaving the front wheels in the air and disconnect the return hose to the reservoir and put it into a funnel going to a collector bucket. Then turn on the motor and turn the wheels lock to lock. I would have an extra hand keep adding fluid in the reservoir so you don't get air pockets in the pump. When done, hook the tube back up, turn the wheels some more and make sure the fluid level is ok. The power steering reservoir is one of the easier things to get to.

For a snow plow, to empty the fluid one blocks the plow up and pushes on the plow end to push fluid out disconnected lines.
Thinking how much the plow is like hydralic steering.....
How about raising the wheels up off the ground, front wheels if you prefer, disconnect a line and empty the fluid one cylinder stroke at a time by pushing on the wheels side to side?

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms