Actual 4WD Engagement

DocB · **Posted:** Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:47 pm

OK fellas, need some help. Someone posted awhile ago about this, but I can't find it and I don't think it was ever answered clearly.
Aside from the indicator light on the dash, how can we tell ACTUALLY what engagement the transfer case is in?
Does anyone know the positions of the "lever?" on the case that correspond to hand lever?
TIA.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:48 am

If it's in PART TIME 4wd you can feel it bind badly when turning on dry ground. In FULL time the binding is barley noticable if at all. On my past XJ's without Full Time the switch for the light was in the transfercase. If ours is the same a problem would point to the xferer case. Our model xfer case on a XJ uses regular Dexron fluid. Your question comes up too often to indicate a isolated instance :roll:

Mine sticks in PART TIME when going from FULL time to 2 WD without pausing in PART time every time :cry:

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Nov 21, 2008 4:47 pm

You have to "pass thru" PART TIME (amber indicator light) to get to FULL TIME (green indicator light). The last (most rearward) position would be 4LO and takes a bit of work to engage (offroad ONLY)...

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Nov 21, 2008 6:17 pm

FYI - one of the issues I have with the 242 transfer case -
is that the lever moves a spring that pushes against the gearset - the gear may or may not engage.
independent of the lights or shifter position.

In my case the problem is a mismatch of axle speeds due to 2 worn tires and 2 new tires.
so I can normally shift into Full time - without issue - but part time or 4Lo and it's problematic
and out of 4wd - it's not unusual to have to go to neutral or stop and backup a bit.
and the Part time/4Lo is all on dirt.

DocB · **Posted:** Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:50 am

Thanks fellas, so it's not only me. I do not have trouble with 4WD PART TIME.
I'm still not 100% sure, but recently I needed 4WD and opted for FULL TIME.
When going back to 2WD I kinda thought it was still stuck in FULL TIME.
Did it right, slow roll going in and out. Even tried backing up.
For me it's hard to tell when it's definately in (or should I say out) of FULL TIME.
Yes I can feel it when I punch it on some slick stuff and the fronts grab, but I would like to know for sure
before I get on the interstate and drive 150 miles back home.
If I crawl/look under the vehicle would the position of what the cable (or whatnot) hooks up to tell me?
I'd really like to know/learn.

PS- I'm finding this a little frustrating because on the F350 you KNOW when you're in or out!

Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: Just reread- lever pushes against a spring, moves gearset- All internal, so no way to tell?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:21 am

No way to tell that I've seen.
Although over the holidays I'm going to put it up on 4 jackstands and try shifting in/out and see if I can find anything.
but the dash lights - only tell you the position of the shift lever.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Skip the jackstands. I swapped a 242 case into my ZJ and there is no external indication to show what "gear" its actually in. The Lever in the cab has linkage and that hooks onto the exterior of the case where a metal arm shifts inside the case. I put some BM syn trickshift into the ZJ 242 and the lever moves more freely compared to the KJ but still the problem of staying in part time when going back into 2wd. When i first got the kj i thought that the thing exploded when i went into 2wd and then tried to take a u-turn fast on the street.... Everything is ok though.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:27 pm

When going from FULL TIME to 2WD I always move the lver firmly to the 2WD location and then let off the gas/diesel pedal for a couple of seconds. After that short coast, I am usually good.

naturist · **Posted:** Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:25 pm

um, ok, guys, I have to tell you that the use of mismatched tires means you should NEVER use 4W full time. The reason is that the mismatched tires will cause the axles to spin at different speeds, and that will burn up your final drive.

I know that for a fact, as I also have an AWD Chevy, that suffered a blow out, and when I replaced the dead tire along with it's mate on the same axle, the shop that did the job put two tires a size off what I asked for and they charged me for. I got exactly 35 miles on the interstate at 65 and my final drive exploded in flames. Cost $1500 to fix.

I did some research on it after that and find that that is a BIG issue with AWD. The rule is this: if you have AWD, you MUST replace all 4 tires, as they must match as closely as possible, or you will destroy that final drive, usually within 100 miles or so, but it could be longer if the vehicle is only driven on very short trips.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:24 pm

Full Time is better for driving in snow or trailer towing in bad weather.
That is how I use it anyway.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:30 am

DarbyWalters wrote:

When going from FULL TIME to 2WD I always move the lver firmly to the 2WD location and then let off the gas/diesel pedal for a couple of seconds. After that short coast, I am usually good.

This does not work for me! Mine will stay in 4PT till I put the lever in 4PT and drive several hundred feet then select 2WD. After shifitng back to 2WD from 4PT the first time I exited the freeway, drove 3 miles in stop and start traffic, pulled into my garage that required backing up. Then the next morning while backing out it was very obvious it was still in 4PT. The service manager verified what I'm saying and said it would have to get worse. I told him if my wife used 4FT once it would be in ther on a flatbed. I think he was covering up a know problem :shock:

Maybe it's time for the once BIG THREE now the Detroit Three to go under.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:07 am

Joe Romas wrote:

DarbyWalters wrote:

When going from FULL TIME to 2WD I always move the lver firmly to the 2WD location and then let off the gas/diesel pedal for a couple of seconds. After that short coast, I am usually good.

This does not work for me! Mine will stay in 4PT till I put the lever in 4PT and drive several hundred feet then select 2WD. After shifitng back to 2WD from 4PT the first time I exited the freeway, drove 3 miles in stop and start traffic, pulled into my garage that required backing up. Then the next morning while backing out it was very obvious it was still in 4PT. The service manager verified what I'm saying and said it would have to get worse. I told him if my wife used 4FT once it would be in ther on a flatbed. I think he was covering up a know problem :shock:

Maybe it's time for the once BIG THREE now the Detroit Three to go under.

Chysler/Ford/GM does not make there t-cases so don't blame them.New Process/New Venture make 90% of all t-cases in vehicles,blame them.

You wanted the full time option of the select trac t-case,now live with the odd nature of the indirect shifting,soon you will lose the ability to shift into 2wd,part time,and 4low and is a KNOWN issue with the 242 t-case(has been known for over 10 years,99% out of warrenty) but you all still want it so you get to live with the problems.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:19 am

Exactly, the manufacturer of a vehicle has no responsibility for what they put in a vehicle. It is the owner's fault for buying it. The customer always screws it up for the manufacturer. If they'd just go away, there'd be no problems. :idea:

DocB · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:10 am

Did some experimenting today in the snow.
When I shift from 4WD PT back to 2WD and keep my hand on the lever, I can feel a slight 'click' transmitted through the lever and it is back in 2WD.
Fellas, please try it and let me know if you feel the same.

aandlwoods- can you see the metal arm when looking under the vehicle? Does it move or have different positions?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:23 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

You wanted the full time option of the select trac t-case,now live with the odd nature of the indirect shifting,soon you will lose the ability to shift into 2wd,part time,and 4low and is a KNOWN issue with the 242 t-case(has been known for over 10 years,99% out of warrenty) but you all still want it so you get to live with the problems.

Known problem for over ten years, 99% out of warranty You've pin pointed their whole problem in one sentence :shock:

customer be darned

If they've known about it for ten years and have not figured it out yet then they just don't care because it's not costing them anything to fix :wink:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:56 am

Quote:

Known problem for over ten years, 99% out of warranty You've pin pointed their whole problem in one sentence customer be darned

And you still bought one :lol:

.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:24 am

Well then we've all agreed the root of the problem was buying a Jeep in the first place.

However since we have it - the issue now is how to deal with it.

1) make tire sizes match as well as possible - including air pressure, wear or different manufacturers
and never, never have different sizes.
2) eliminate stress on driveline
back off on throttle
3) on shifting out of 4wd - neutral and/or back up a bit

any other ideas?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:29 am

also as a secondary issue
Novak makes an aftermarket shifter
that would eliminate shifter issues - however it wouldn't effect the internals of the 242

anyone have any experience with it?
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2x.htm

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:55 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Quote:

Known problem for over ten years, 99% out of warranty You've pin pointed their whole problem in one sentence customer be darned

And you still bought one :lol:

.

Having been exposed to three very used XJ's with command track I was not aware of this deep dark secret about the 242. And I would have NEVER bought a new jeep of any kind had it not been for the diesel option. I prefer used cars so I don't have to deal with dealer service departments as I prefer to do my own wrenching. The way I see it, I screw up I pay. You screw up and I still pay :roll:

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:27 am

I'm in the same boat. I'd have never bought a Jeep if it wasn't diesel. I wanted a lightweight towing rig, and the CRD works very well for this application.

I've used 4WD a few times, mainly to haul my trailer out of my muddy, hilly back yard in an attempt to not spin the wheels and tear up my yard. When I disengage it, it does take quite a bit of time to go back to 2WD. Even in FT 4WD, I still get "crabbing", which I understand is not supposed to happen. I never use part time, and I've only used low once just to try it out.

Actual 4WD Engagement

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