From all the "tech" info, it's not quite clear to me what the consensus is as to what the best/practical locations for trans temp and EGT sending units are along with where to best/ most easily tap in for boost.

I know that pre-turbo is "best" for EGT, but that looks too involved for me on the KJ CRD.

Appreciate your input.

Thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Doc I can only comment on the trans. There have been two approaches. I have the PML pan with the boss for a trans temp. Someone else (forget teh SN) has done an inline type. I would think his is probably a bit more accurate than mine is, but I'm happy with mine. In the summer my temps are from 120-140ish. This morning I barely brook 100. Mind you this is from the bottom of the pan.

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

Boost install is IMO easiest on the elbow going to the intake. Just a few centimeters inside the elbow from the CAC hose to intake will make it easy for you to remove the aluminum which you've just drilled and tapped away.

Remember before you start drilling/tapping to put some cloth or paper towel further inside the intake elbow than where you drill, so you make sure the small metal fragments are pushed outside when you pull the cloth/paper towel out again.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

for my pre turbo egt... i took out one of the heat shield bolts, drilled the hole bigger without breaking through (the hole is already fairly deep and you can see what you are doing if you take your time and check often), tapped it in the same fashion, started the engine and with a smaller drill bit (a bit bigger than the probe) drilled through, and got showered in metal bits...

trans temp... put a hole in the pass side bottom of the pan, went to auto zone and got a add a drain plug kit, drilled and re tapped the center hole to fit the sensor and installed (i get the same temp readings as RT)

boost there is a few bolt places that are tapped but not used... did the same as for the EGT...BUT... the second hole i drilled was tiny and the flutes were packed with grease AND i DID NOT START the engine.

hope this helps and if you want pics let me know

edit.... every time i checked the hole for depth and thread quality i blow the hole out with compressed air to keep it clean.. and with the harder cast iron of the exhaust manifold, doing it this way, if you break a tap off there are no worries cause you didn't get to drilling through yet so no holes.

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Trevor

'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K

Thanks guys!

Trevor,

Pictures would be great. Pleae post or email to my address in profile.

Thanks Again,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP