So the oil light has been coming on for a few seconds after cold starts for the last couple weeks. I checked and the dipstick looks low. So I go to Autozone where I wanted to double check that I'm buying the right oil to top her off with. The Autozone computer shows it should have Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30. Hmm. I've been using a family friend's shop for oil changes cus it's easier and cheaper than doing it myself. I know he's been using Rotella, which doesn't come in 5w-30. I call him, he says he checked the book the first time, I'm not sure, but I think it takes 15w-40 for diesel engines. So I buy 15w-40, bring it home and double check the owner's manual. It says Mobil 1 5w-30 or if not available 0w-40??

I'm beginning to think we've been using the wrong oil for ohhhh I don't know, like the last year and a half. I've already had the turbo replaced at 70k miles. Am I driving a ticking time bomb??? Should I just change the oil and start using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 from now on?

The wife and I are both starting to think we should just ditch the CRD after it's caused so many problems. Oh yeah, the vehicle is a 2005 with 99k miles. The extended warranty runs out at 102k miles I believe. Oh, and it's been stalling out randomly (twice in the last month).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mike

I believe my book says 0w40 Mobil 1 and if that is not available use Mobil 1 5w40 personally I think that the 0w40 is better for a cold start up in the colder times of the year and the 40 weight gives you good protection in the summer. currently at 106 k and no problems.

Thanks. I just finished changing the oil. I brought my manual to the start just to make sure. I ended up with Mobil 1 5w-40 for diesel engines. We'll give it a few weeks and see what happens. I'm still not sure if it's been getting the wrong oil for a while or if it may have just been the last change. Hopefully all turns out well. Anyone else have any experience with this sort of thing??

Any properly graded diesel synthetic oil will do. Far more important is how often you change the oil and filter, as these EGR diesels will wear faster if soot is allowed to build up in the oil. IMHO CRDs should have their oil changed every 5000km to ensure engine longevity.

Even with ULSD, sulphur degrades oil, with LSD of 50ppm and 500ppm still available in the southern hemisphere, you kind of wonder how Jeep sell their product and service every 20,000km's with the quality of our diesel fuel.

_________________
06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

I talked to another local dealer and they said that Mobil1 will no longer support the dealers, ie Mobile 1 and Chrysler have parted ways. I now worry that this leaves us owners with no place to buy 5W40 ESP.

_________________
No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

http://www.avlube.com/mo1espfom5wc.html

Just curious why you need the ESP oil though, the Liberty CRD doesn't have a particulate filter in the exhaust to clog up?

_________________
1973 Buick Centurion Convertable 455/4bb
1988 IROC-Z T-Top 350/TPI/it died
1997 Dodge Dakota 3.9/ dead also
2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200
2007 Jeep GC Diesel Limited

The M1 was inferior anyway to other oils, like the shell oil Wally sells.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

I had a oil issue about a year ago that presented like you describe, it was a bad oil filter, oil change and solved.

the stalling makes me think torque converter. (again an early issue I had)

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Light Khaki

Shell Rotella at Walmart is not "normal" Shell Rotella?

- Chris

_________________
Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD Ltd - Suncoast, GDE Eco, EGR Delete, After market T-Stat, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back
2005 KJ CRD Sport-Suncoast, Transco, GDE Hot-GDE Trans, EGR Delete, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back, After market S-Stat
1987 Suzuki LWB Samurai -diesel powered, custom 4 link coil suspension 38.5 SX Swampers

There are TWO different Rotella oils that Wally sells
You want the synthetic 5-40 in the BLUE bottle Some stores are often out of this one
The white bottle 15-40 or 10-30 is regular dino and it not for our CRD's this one seems to always be available

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Thanks Joe. I am aware of that, but some on here might not be.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

...I'm not sure why people like to say this about Mobile 1, but I see it pop up from time to time.

I used Mobil 1 0w40 during the first 40,000 miles on my Jeep. I've switched over to the synthetic Shell Rotella T 5w40. I didn't switch because I thought the Mobil 1 was bad oil. I did it because the Rotella is cheaper and available by the gallon.

Just an interesting tidbit of information...I was making materials at work and assessing them for ability to be lubricants using the 4-ball wear test. To dash my hopes and make myself feel bad, I used the Mobil 1 0w40 as a baseline in the test.

One of the ASTM methods dictate the conditions for the 4-ball wear test to be done at 167 degrees F with 40 kilograms pressure exerted on the ball at 1200 RPM for 1 hour. For those who aren't familiar, you basically have a jig where 3 steel balls are clamped do so that they are stationary. The fourth steel ball is secured in a rotor and spun on top of those other three balls. After the test is complete, you clean the balls and measure the wear marks on those that were stationary.

I can't see the wear scar on the balls from the Mobil 1 test with the naked eye...and I have excellent vision. Actually, I can't find the scar which is pretty annoying. I'm going to have to spend an hour with a microscope to locate them.

So, while there may be oils out there that are only marginally better, there's little basis for any of us who simply put oil in our engines to simply declare that the Mobil 1 is "bad." Now if someone was doing a lot of lubrication testing with an appropriate number of replicates for statistical significance, there would be a basis. Now the materials I was making myself...they're quite pathetic, but would have potential if additives were incorporated.

Look at the ratings on the bottles. They don't fib. I always fell for the advertising hype of M1. The truth is, shell is better oil for a cheaper price. Like it or lump it.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Better oil?...maybe. There's more that goes into the service rating than the lubricity. I do like the fact that the Shell has the latest (most advanced) service rating. However, it still isn't justification to declare that the Mobil 1 is bad unless one can point out one specific attribute that makes it "bad." I do agree that it's way overhyped.

Better value?...definitely...which is exactly why I'm using the Shell.

I would highly recommend anyone dissing m1 to head over to bobistheoilguy and READ.

rtsyn is not even close to tdt

Running tdt to 5k and dropping it indiscriminately, is foolish.
rts is an excellent oil but cant come close to oci's of tdt or Schaeffer 7000 or amsoil's.

EDIT : Schaeffer's 9000 not 7000

_________________
06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

Both Shell and Mobil oils are used in the Formual 1 cars that are limited to 18000rpm and have to be used for more than one race this year.

I doubt that either of these oils are crap if they can withstand the abuse that these engines are capable of.

So now it's down to which of the two oil companies has the better marketing campaign

_________________
06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

not to knock what they're ran in but i'd be more apt to go with bob's than basis on other indicators

always been fond of lab reports done on personal vehicles

actually since bobs was brought up, any of you guys do the whole blackstone labs test submissions or whatever ya call it?

I know I've seen a few peoples lab reports on here

we always had shell rotella in our tank for services on the rigs but that doesn't really mean dingy squat, ya know how it goes, when ya need mass quanities of oil for services ya don't exactly buy the highest quality most expensive stuff ya pretty much get whats acceptable to the engine manu's

_________________
03 Renegade (Black)
177k miles 3.7L gas - 45RFE
Command Trac / 4.10s
Lift: ft. 790+ rr. JBA4+
The last of the TrailReady Front&Rear Bumpers and TR Rock Rails
Jarhead Offroad light covers
31x10.5R15 RedLetter Grabbers on Blackrock Dunes
L.O.S.T #KD098632

Yea, I've read Bob. What is happening here is that SOME are confusing what I said. I never called M1 a junk oil. I said """"""""inferior"""""""" which simply means 'not as good as' Shell. I go by ratings, that's what they are there for. To educate. I do think that today's M1 isn't the same oil that flew on the shuttle however. Perhaps a lessor distant cousin.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?