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Getting limp-mode on WOT, overboost code?
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=45534
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Author:  geordi [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Getting limp-mode on WOT, overboost code?

The freeze frame data from the AutoEnginuity is as follows:

Engine overboost code - Yes, it enters limp mode and shuts off the turbo. I watched it happen twice in a row, with gauge verification.
99% load
Coolant 169 deg
Intake map 74.9 in.hg
rpm 3013
speed 52mph
intake air temp 147 deg
air flow from mass air 20.29 lb/min

The MAP and mass air numbers don't mean a lot to me, which makes me think I'm missing a primary cause from a glitching sensor somewhere in either of those two.
Here's the scenario: WOT run from a low-speed (<5mph) rolling start. I have exernal boost and EGT gauges now, and the boost spikes to 26/27, then instantly retreats to 18-20. On shift into second, it gets to 22, and this is about when I'm at 50 or so. I'd like to monitor the TCM to know exactly when it shifts... Is that data available through the Autoenginuity or somewhere else in the OBD? Part of the reason I want to monitor the TCM, is the one that was in the box of parts that came with my new engine... Has a part number ending in AF, when my original ends in AJ. I'd also like to know how to read the ID info from the electronic data, if that is possible without a DRBIII.

So... Whats causing the limp mode, and should I be concerned about it? The engine smokes for a second or two on starting the WOT runs (I'm not just instantly stomping on it to launch, but I am moving rapidly to full throttle) then I don't see any smoke after. A GDE tune is in the near future, and I also just discovered that the spare ECM I have won't work the engine while I'm waiting to get the GDE tune back. Stupid anti-theft system is tied into the ECM too.

I hate that design.

Author:  Joe Romas [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Getting limp-mode on WOT, overboost code?

geordi wrote:
A GDE tune is in the near future, and I also just discovered that the spare ECM I have won't work the engine while I'm waiting to get the GDE tune back. Stupid anti-theft system is tied into the ECM too.


Your spare ECM should allow the engine to start then shut down after like maybe 10 seconds.

On one of the GDE threads I read they can program your data into the spare so you would not be down. I don't know if this is true but it might be worth a call to them :wink:

Vag-com in it's generic obdii mode will read the part numbers for my ECM and TCM that indicate the flash level if that is what your asking about :D

Joe

Author:  geordi [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Getting limp-mode on WOT, overboost code?

Joe Romas wrote:
geordi wrote:
A GDE tune is in the near future, and I also just discovered that the spare ECM I have won't work the engine while I'm waiting to get the GDE tune back. Stupid anti-theft system is tied into the ECM too.


Your spare ECM should allow the engine to start then shut down after like maybe 10 seconds.

On one of the GDE threads I read they can program your data into the spare so you would not be down. I don't know if this is true but it might be worth a call to them :wink:

Vag-com in it's generic obdii mode will read the part numbers for my ECM and TCM that indicate the flash level if that is what your asking about :D

Joe


Thats great that GDE can program the spare, I figured they could. Only problem with that... They have to have both at the same time, or at least have the working one first, right? Which means, I'm still down for the same amount of time. The service manual's procedure is less than helpful too, as it says that I have to have a 4 digit pin code from the existing ECM, and that I need to program that into the new one using a DRBIII. Which is also something I do not yet have.

I'll have to check and see if the earlier versions of vag-com can read through the AutoEnginuity devices. I always did like that program better, you could actually CHANGE stuff with it.

Author:  MrMopar64 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

The MAP sensor in the KJ is absolute, so your inches of Mercury would read 29.92 in. Hg with the key on engine off (or whatever your current atmospheric pressure is). If it doesn't, you have an issue with the sensor.

74.9 in. Hg = 2.536 bar absolute = 1.536 bar gauge = 22.3psi on a boost gauge. You set the fault because within a certain period of time, you're consistently over the boost setpoint which, when converted to psi gauge, is about 18-19 for the OEM tune. The spike in first gear is very excessive because the setpoint doesn't change between gears, and 26-27psi is way out of the ballpark.

I will say that the boost governing on the OEM tune is designed for use with EGR, and if you're running the ORM then you risk behaviour like this. However, by the time you're in second gear, the integrator should be at a negative value and the boost level should be right at the setpoint.

I think that you should review all of the vacuum lines going to the turbo and make sure that you don't have any leaks, and make sure that the filter on the VGT actuator solenoid is clean. Additionally, if you have a MityVac handy, hook it up straight to the actuator on the turbo and apply vacuum slowly and visually check that the arm is moving smoothly. By the time you apply 2 or 3 inches of mercury to the actuator it should be moving. if it doesn't move smoothly, you have an issue with the turbo that needs to be addressed.

Without getting this solved and verifying that the hardware is functioning correctly, I'm worried that you'll see the problem reappear.

Author:  nursecosmo [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

Strange, I routinely see over 70 In Hg when I lay down heavy on the throttle, but I never get an over-boost code. The only time that I got over-boost is when I ran too much WMO in my fuel blend and had deposits build up on the turbo nozzles. A tank of good fuel, some injector cleaner and a long, hot Italian tuneup fixed the problem.

Author:  DOC4444 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

geordi,

You just need to provide GDE with your VIN, injector codes and model year ('05 or '06) to program your spare ECU. They DON'T need both of your ECUs.

DOC

Author:  Goglio704 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

DOC4444 wrote:
geordi,

You just need to provide GDE with your VIN, injector codes and model year ('05 or '06) to program your spare ECU. They DON'T need both of your ECUs.

DOC


Very interesting! Any way to get the injector codes without a high end scanner?

Author:  geordi [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

There is a possibility that the vacuum lines aren't routed correctly, because it has been in pieces for about 5 months. The mechanic working on it did a pretty good job of reassembling everything, but I'll check that line. The operation of the turbo itself seems just fine, and I would hope it would be - This is the brand.spanking.new. turbo that I bought and installed 10 miles before the engine grenaded the #1 cylinder. I know its the one that I bought because I had drilled the turbine entry for the EGT probe, and the mechanic wanted to ensure that I had the sensor. The turbo that came with the new engine (used engine) wasn't set up for a probe. Yet. It will be.

Where should that vacuum line lead to? Should there be any other junctions in it, or does it go directly to an actuator somewhere on the engine?

Author:  nursecosmo [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

It goes from the turbo actuator to the boost control solenoid, which in turn gets vacuum from the vacuum reservoir right below it.

Author:  geordi [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

DOC4444 wrote:
geordi,

You just need to provide GDE with your VIN, injector codes and model year ('05 or '06) to program your spare ECU. They DON'T need both of your ECUs.

DOC


Where would I find the injector codes?

Author:  MrMopar64 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

The injector codes are found both:

On a barcoded label on the front of the engine at the top (sticker on the timing belt cover). It is 24 digits long.

On top of each injector, alphanumeric code 6 digits long on each injector. This will correspond to the barcoded label on the front.

Author:  DOC4444 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

Go with the codes on the injectors just in case any of them have been replaced since the engine was delivered.

DOC

Author:  geordi [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the info. I will probably go with the top of the injectors themselves, since I don't know if any were swapped with the motor swap. I know I have a box with them in the extra parts... But I don't know which engine they came from.

What is so special about the codes? Are they addressed by the computer by name, instead of cylinder location or harness plug?

Author:  MrMopar64 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

The codes provide the ECU the adjustment values for the injector quantity. Each part of the code adjusts a different part of the general spectrum of operating ranges (low-idle, light load, medium load, full load). It helps the engine to run smoother and more accurately.

It is best to just list them off one at a time in case of any doubts (cyl 1--front--value AIH8AS for example, so on and so forth)

Author:  geordi [ Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:09 am ]
Post subject: 

MrMopar64 wrote:
The codes provide the ECU the adjustment values for the injector quantity. Each part of the code adjusts a different part of the general spectrum of operating ranges (low-idle, light load, medium load, full load). It helps the engine to run smoother and more accurately.

It is best to just list them off one at a time in case of any doubts (cyl 1--front--value AIH8AS for example, so on and so forth)


Yea, I probably will separate them by location since I don't have a clue how GDE will use them... But that example you posted is kinda funny... I Hate Asss? Thats a sad car then. :lol: :lol:

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