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 Post subject: P1202 - #2 Injector fault
PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 12:53 pm 
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Just popped on this morning. Drove 300 miles to northern Wisconsin last night. On my way up, I had an issue accelerating, depressing the skinny pedal further increased the RPM, but couldn't get it to downshift or feel the turbo spool up. I could do 70, but little to no acceleration, in fact pressing skinny to far eventually leads to the engine bogging down.

Condition clears up for a while if I restart the engine.

Anyone have any ideas?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Reseat plugs and connectors going to and on injector #2 :wink: No cost and nothing to loose :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:19 pm 
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Any more smoke from the tailpipe than usual?
I'd check your oil level and make sure it's not going up from fuel dilution.
At idle, grab that injector and see if the pulses feel different than the others, or use the screwdriver trick to listen to it.

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 Post subject: Good Points Joe & CATCRD
PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:59 pm 
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CATCRD wrote:
Any more smoke from the tailpipe than usual?
I'd check your oil level and make sure it's not going up from fuel dilution.
At idle, grab that injector and see if the pulses feel different than the others, or use the screwdriver trick to listen to it.



When I had my shop, I fixed up a guy that dumped a bunch of money in his Z car. The other shop replaced the distributor and ECM with no fix.
It was a corroded injector plug and the injector did not pulse, no sound.
With the added diesel vibration we should check the injector plugs before we get excited about replacing injectors or the ECM.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:19 pm 
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And when your need an injector pm me.
I have 4 factory sealed new injectors on stock.
So.... mine will never fail :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:05 pm 
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There's another thread around here I started a couple of weeks ago where I reported the lack of acceleration, kind of felt like tranny not shifting correctly. Never got a code though, but I think the symptoms of this have been building for a couple of weeks.

I considered that the tranny fluid might be low causing it to not shift when hot. Also thought might have been a turbo hose, but didn't make sense since it went away on restart. No smoke at all. All fluids checked out.

So this morning I removed and reseated the connector on #2 and drove it for about 2 hours. Drove great, lots of on demand torque and acceleration, no repeat of the P1202 or the lack of acceleration at speed I reported earlier. I hope its just the connection. At the next oil change, I'm going to reset all these plugs and add a little dielectric grease. I've got 300 miles of towing to do tomorrow which will be the real test.

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My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:36 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
I hope its just the connection. At the next oil change, I'm going to reset all these plugs and add a little dielectric grease. I've got 300 miles of towing to do tomorrow which will be the real test.


DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE :!:
First reason is because it's an insulator and second it will harden over time and cause poor connection problems, I've been there and done that :oops: Dielectric grease is made to insulate and transmit heat to cool electronic devices.
These people have what you need but their products are hard to find but well worth it. I've sucessfully used their products for 20 or so years. Most recently used ProGold (still have some of that can left) and you can't beat it period.
http://store.caig.com/
Also here's a Electrical Contact grease your ACE hardware store can order. The first one on the page.
http://plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm? ... on_id=2635
Our local ACE closed down so I have not gotten any yet :cry:

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