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Timing Belt Change Question
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48012		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Mykol [ Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Timing Belt Change Question
I saw the write-up in the CRD Tech section by ChileanKJ on how to change the timing belt. IIRC, the replacement of the belt is recommended at 100k miles, right? Is it as straight-forward as it seems to be to change? Any special tools? Other comments please? Thanks
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Also see this post:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=47123

Get all the other parts too. The water pump is one of the idlers for the timing belt. If it locks up, the engine gets trashed.
The total for all the parts is about $600.
Make sure to get some Zerox G-05 anti-freeze too. (Grainger's has it for $9.95 / gal. The others want $12+ / gal).
Good luck as I am only 4K miles away from doing it too.
Author:  Cowpie1 [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:40 am ]
Post subject: 
While your at it, you might also consider the crankshaft dampner. This is something hardly anyone gives thought to. They will wear out over time and then crankshaft and camshaft excessive wear will occur. We know this with larger diesels in ag equipment and semi's. Even the 4.0 gasser has one and hardly anyone gives thought to it. They could extend their engine life by this simple change. Anyone going to the trouble of doing a serious timining belt, water pump, etc change out would be wise to also do the crankshaft dampner while there. Diesels can really put a strain on a crank. Which is cheaper, a dampner or the whole crank? There is a good writeup about this at Pittsburgh Power's website. Do a google and check it out. Very few dampners will last until a complete rebuild. Cheap insurance for long engine life.

I used Global Extended Life Coolant for large truck diesels when I changed out coolant in my CRD. Since the 2.8 in the Libby is also a wet sleeved engine, Liner cavitation can be a problem just as much as any large truck diesel. The extended life coolants from Cat, Shell, Chevron, Global, etc are specifically designed to prevent this liner cavitation. Not that much more expensive and is good clear till another timing belt changeout. Best thing you can use in this engine, unless you are not concerned about longevity. I have heard already of one CRD owner that has lost a liner that got weak due to cavitation. Mighty expensive repair.

Your call.
Author:  Tinman [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Cowpie is right about the damper. Early this year my 01 Cummins seemed to be vibrating more. I figured the damper was worn out. I got a Fluidampr and it made a night and day different. The engine never ran so smooth. (I also replace the 06 Cummins damper as well (for hp reasons, not wear) and it didn't make such a difference.)The old one looked ok but is was obviously worn out. It had about 160K on it. I wonder if we could get Fluidampr to make us a unit. It's a nice piece and will never wear out.
Author:  grywlfbg [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Cowpie1 wrote:
I used Global Extended Life Coolant for large truck diesels when I changed out coolant in my CRD. Since the 2.8 in the Libby is also a wet sleeved engine, Liner cavitation can be a problem just as much as any large truck diesel. The extended life coolants from Cat, Shell, Chevron, Global, etc are specifically designed to prevent this liner cavitation. Not that much more expensive and is good clear till another timing belt changeout. Best thing you can use in this engine, unless you are not concerned about longevity. I have heard already of one CRD owner that has lost a liner that got weak due to cavitation. Mighty expensive repair.

Cowpie,

Thanks for the damper reco. I'll add that to my list. As far as coolant goes, does the stock/factory coolant protect against cavitation as well as the ones you mentioned above?
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
G-05 is the factory Mopar stuff that was in the CRD. It even says on the bottle that it is formulated for diesels.
Now this is where it gets real confusing real fast.
G-05 is a HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) and supposedly will not eat gaskets.
ELP's (Extended Life Protectents) like Dex-Cool, and others are OAT's (Organic Acid Technology) and there is the controversy that they "Might" eat gaskets.
The rest of you members be nice here! I know that ain't the rest of the story as to who does what to who and how.
Keep it simple for the new guy here.
Anyway, check out the threads here about the coolant stories and you will learn.
Author:  tonycrd [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
I made this a sticky ....http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=518289
Author:  Mykol [ Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks a bunch! The recommendation is to perform this service at 100k miles, correct?
Author:  grywlfbg [ Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mykol wrote:
Thanks a bunch! The recommendation is to perform this service at 100k miles, correct?

Yep. Timing belt and coolant at 100k.
Author:  SLS [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 1:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
I never payed a lot of attention to antifreeze other than making sure I had enough to keep things from freezing. But these days I realize how important it really is. I'm going to switch to the AMSOIL Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and Engine Coolant a Super long life fluid - 750,000 miles/7 Years of service in over-the-road trucks & 250,000 mile/7-Year service life in light-truck and auto applications. Essentially nontoxic & biodegradable. Superior performance in all climates. Contains corrosion inhibitors & anti-foam agents. I'ts not cheap but neither is replacing my engine.
Author:  widowmaker [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 2:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would like to order the commercial free version of this forum
Author:  UFO [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 2:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
widowmaker wrote:
I would like to order the commercial free version of this forum
It'll cost you. Even I, an exalted "lifetime member", am subject to the infomercials.
Author:  Diggerfreek [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 4:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
UFO wrote:
widowmaker wrote:
I would like to order the commercial free version of this forum
It'll cost you. Even I, an exalted "lifetime member", am subject to the infomercials.


Aye, even MODS are subjected to it :lol:
Author:  dgeist [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 6:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Diggerfreek wrote:
UFO wrote:
widowmaker wrote:
I would like to order the commercial free version of this forum
It'll cost you. Even I, an exalted "lifetime member", am subject to the infomercials.


Aye, even MODS are subjected to it :lol:


We COULD change that .... mmmm, paypa-basedl recurring revenue stream......
Author:  widowmaker [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 6:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
dgeist wrote:
We COULD change that .... mmmm, paypa-basedl recurring revenue stream......


Hey...that sounds like some kind of pyramid scheme. I'll get my family and closest friends to join too.
Author:  kdlewis1975 [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
SLS wrote:
I never payed a lot of attention to antifreeze other than making sure I had enough to keep things from freezing. But these days I realize how important it really is. I'm going to switch to the AMSOIL Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and Engine Coolant a Super long life fluid - 750,000 miles/7 Years of service in over-the-road trucks & 250,000 mile/7-Year service life in light-truck and auto applications. Essentially nontoxic & biodegradable. Superior performance in all climates. Contains corrosion inhibitors & anti-foam agents. I'ts not cheap but neither is replacing my engine.


You should talk to your buddies and Amsoil and see if they can make a timing belt for our Jeeps that will last 300,000 or 400,000 miles so that we only have to change it at rebuilds. Everything else they make is orders of magnitude better than the "equivalent" products we use.

Propylene glycol simply has much lower toxicity than ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol would be essentially nontoxic too if it wasn't imbibed.

Ethylene glycol breaks down in the environment more quickly than propylene glycol, so a claim for PG being better doesn't wash.

It also requires more PG as a percentage of the mixture with water than EG to obtain the same freezing point. One negative of PG is that it is substantially more viscous than EG at low temperature at the same concentations. PG is considered to have a higher heat capacity than EG, but more has to be added to get the same effect, and since water is actually the component with the highest head capicity in the system, then which of the two mixtures, PG/water or EG/water, has the better ability to carry away heat from the system if mixed in the appropriate proportions to be useful at the same exact temperature ranges?

Actually...I don't have anything personal against PG. I get annoyed, like the others, with the "use this product and save the world stuff." When it comes time do my flush and change, I'll take the advice of some of our truckers on this forum and use something designed for a wet-lined engine. I'm not overly concerned with whether the carriers is EG or PG, but just want to make sure I use something with the proper additives.

I don't dispute that Amsoil makes good stuff. I just don't think it's the 10 or 100 times better (that its fans purport) than the "equivalent" products most of us use. I currently run the Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w40 that I change every 10,000 miles. I'm sitting at 78K and the motor hasn't blown yet.

We tend to get into pretty intense discussions in regards to brand, variety, and viscosity of motor oils, for instance. And really, the most significant thing isn't what you use, it's a matter of having the correct amount in there at all times and changing it out periodically. Differences in viscosity, brand, variety are really only going to net an incremental improvement over anything else. The only way to really know how good one product is over another is to machine all of the parts in the engine exactly the same, drive 10,000 of those vehicles under exactly the same conditions, tear them down after a few hundred thousand miles and compare the damage. The singular data points most of us, me included, report are relatively meaningless. The best we can do is give a binary result: did the engine blow or does it still run? The guys who do the UOA's do provide some useful information in terms of showing potential trends, but in general those are string of single data points of snapshots in time that may or may not transfer to the rest of us.
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