Oil change day... Looks like crude oil coming out!

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:25 pm

Well, since I am spending time working on the diesel, I decided to catch up on the maintenance for my motorcycle too. By coincidence, they both want the same oil (40 wt) so between the two bottles of Mobil 1 synth, I am getting a good look at the difference between "motorcycle" and "diesel" fresh synth. In short... About $1/qt (MC more expensive) and not much else.

HOWEVER... When I pulled the drain plug on the CRD, what I got looked a LOT different from the bike! Black as can be, and flowed out like syrup. Granted the bike oil was warmed up a bit b/c I used that to go get the oil... But come on! This looked like bunker fuel or what you see coming straight from an oil rig.

Should I be concerned about it flowing slowly in 70 degree weather? After last year... I don't need anything to happen to my engine ever again. I don't think this is related to the performance issues, simply b/c those have a distinctive on/off kinda switch between behaving badly and not. That says electronic issue to me.

What I am certainly now thinking of, is one of those centrifugal filters. Even if I don't change my oil change frequency (about 6k right now) I don't like the idea that the Mopar filter that was installed by the mechanic who rebuilt the motor may not have been catching everything. I'm now installing a Purolator filter, but they didn't have any of the PureOne filters that I would have preferred.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:57 pm

My dad, and his dad, and his dad before him, said to ALWAYS get the engine up to operating temperature under load (not just at idle) before draining the oil. It is 40 weight oil, after all.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:34 pm

Since I'm just finishing up with my own "oil crisis" in which I've had to drain & refill 3 times in a row both cold & hot I can attest to the fact there is a big difference in how it looks when draining. Although I provided you are replacing with the same oil, I don't think it would really matter if it was hot or cold when drained. In my case it could have mattered because I suspected possible plugging of the uptake that could potentially be flushed out with a faster draining so if that's a concern then perhaps it would be a good idea. As far as it being black; Diesel oil is always ink black. Within a few seconds of running new of running - no matter how well it's flushed - it will be black. It's from the high carbon content present in the exhaust.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:32 pm

KeighJeigh,

I see from your sig that you seem to not be running SEGR (or a GDE ECU) or the EHM. We are at about 75K. It has been over a thousand miles since the last oil change (Mobil 1 0-40 @ 6K intervals) and the oil on the stick still looks like it came out of the bottle. Not even a little color, yet. Those mods really work!

DOC

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:03 pm

geordi

For work I have been flying (into Fort Walton Beach, FL) more lately and driving less. Since I installed my centrifuge, my oil has remained a brown color instead of diesel black. In fact the Guinness I drink is even darker, my oil color is between Amber Bach and Guinness in color. When I poured in the oil it was Amber Bach color.
I will look inside the rotor and check for crud when I do some more driving and post.
Let me know if you want to see any more photos than I posted for installation.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:59 pm

I used to be said that oil needed to be at least warm when changing. It does flow better, but the real reason given was that any contaminants would be in suspension at higher temps and more likely to drain out.

I think I read that in an auto mag somewhere.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:55 am

Mine is Blacker than the ace of spades too when it is drained... I am running the orm and provent so far none or those has change it.

I have read too and believe that your oil should be hot or warm when drained. I do my change in the driveway, usually in the afternoon just after work. I buy my stuff ahead of time cus I never know if wal mart is going to have gallons of Rotella T6 or not, they seem to sell out it must be popular. I pull in the driveway and shut it off, gather my tools and ramps. Then I drive it up on the ramps and do the oil change, the oil doesn't cool much and flows good. Having the Fumoto valve is nice too cus I don't get burnt with the hot oil like I did when removing the drain plugs.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:56 am

mikey,

Your profile suggests your EGR is still operative. Your oil will always be black until you disable the EGR. We disabled the EGR @ 25K. It took 30K miles, doing Mobil 1 changes every 6K, to finally see what we have now (over 1K post oil change and oil is still clean).

DOC

onthehunt · **Posted:** Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:35 pm

Your oil will always be black... It's a diesel. Soot makes it black. Egr has nothing to do with it. An expensive by-pass filter might clean it. The only clean oil I have ever seen on a diesel is the initial fill.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:06 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

mikey,

Your profile suggests your EGR is still operative. Your oil will always be black until you disable the EGR. We disabled the EGR @ 25K. It took 30K miles, doing Mobil 1 changes every 6K, to finally see what we have now (over 1K post oil change and oil is still clean).

DOC

I am doing the ORM mod...... THat is upplugging the MAF untill I can either find time to assemble and install the SEGR kit I have or just bite the bullet and get a GDE tune. I only plug my MAF in when Taking it in for service or state inspection. Diesel's are exempt from annual emmissions check-ups here in Pennsylvania but a visual inspection of all emmissions equipment to ensure it not tampered with is part of the safety inspection. I do not want them to see a CEL and risk getting failed.

I also updated my profile to reflect my Jeeps EGR status

Mandela · **Joined:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:27 am **Posts:** 8

DOC4444 wrote:

mikey,

Your profile suggests your EGR is still operative. Your oil will always be black until you disable the EGR. We disabled the EGR @ 25K. It took 30K miles, doing Mobil 1 changes every 6K, to finally see what we have now (over 1K post oil change and oil is still clean).

DOC

Show me a pic of diesel oil from a CRD that has done 6000 miles and still looks like virgin oil the day you bought it from your local Walmart pet emporium and i'll drink it.

Just accept that is how a diesel operates, perhaps as diesel technology develops in the European block with their stringent emission controls, things will change and the oil will remain as good as the day you put it in.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 10:41 am

linewarbr wrote:

My dad, and his dad, and his dad before him, said to ALWAYS get the engine up to operating temperature under load (not just at idle) before draining the oil. It is 40 weight oil, after all.

Only when it's cold oil. Remember it's thinner when cold. lol. It needs to be warm so that any particulates that "settled" out in the pan, get back into suspension and drain out.

Oil change day... Looks like crude oil coming out!

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