The tire is NOT low you SOB!

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:19 pm

But . . . the CRD tire pressure monitor continues to taunt me anyhow. I've cleared codes (can't get rid of pesky turbo underboost, but that's another issue) I had a flat & drove on the spare for a month before fixing it & swapping them back (right rear). When I had the flat mounted on the back, it properly reminded me each day that my "spare" was flat. Once fixed & swapped back, it said "check TPS system" which I assumed was the system trying to reorient itself. But since then it just dings each time I start it & the low tire light comes on. I tried disconnecting the battery (I think I recall someone doing that once) to reset & then deflated the tire & then over-inflated to 60 psi with the idea maybe a sensor is stuck. But, no luck. You know, sometimes it gets so ridiculous it's funny (almost); Last week I glanced down at a console of little lights & beeps; Oil light, OD off, CEL, brights, tire pressure & with my ever-present small tool box on the passenger seat, the air bag light was on. This thing warns me of too many things & cries wolf so d@mn often - I feel like yanking the fuse for the lamps & just glancing at the temp. gauge from time to time like I did on my 1970 Ford Maveric in HS. High temp. & odd noise = "bad" Otherwise, keep driving. But enough beeotching; any ideas on the TPS system?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:45 pm

On the repaired tire look to see if it has the proper valve stem for the TPM :SOMBRERO:

If so it's possible they messed up the innerds fixing the flat.

If it's bad they are $15.54 here.
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/partlo ... eid=214583

But it's hard to find and I thought the link would get you there but I see it does not.
And before you ask there is only one sender regardless if you have an EVIC or not. I've been through this :jester:

Joe

Quicksilversurf917 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:50 pm

Most of the time its just the sensor has gone bad and it shows the tire is "low" or flat. My EVIC tells me that my rear left tire has no pressure in it but I know for sure it has bc I look at it everytime I go out to the jeep. But just ignore it. or get the TPMS fixed.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:16 pm

Thanks. I know it wasn't damaged due to the fix because I ended up just plugging it myself. I didn't drive on it either since it went flat while parked. I didn't change or even dismount either tire; I just drove on the spare for a month, fixed the tire & swapped them back. Do the sensors have a battery that could wear out? I always assumed they were either self charging from tire movement (like some watches) or they were powered up by the transmitter of the TPS system like the anti-theft tags on products.

cerich · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:46 pm

battery, 4-6 years so we should be seeing lots of tps lights over the couple years

Quicksilversurf917 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:48 pm

My mechanic told me that you cant replace the battery in them. You have to repalce the whole sensor

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 12:44 am

These things are larger than I thought and will require the tire store dismount your tire, install the sensor, remount & balance. I couldn't find any on Moparpartsamerica but Google yielded TPMS Wholesalers which had a picture (below). The 05 Liberty sensor is listed at $31, so with shipping, tire store labor fees, taxes & whatnot it's probably a $75 cost per tire.
I like that system, but given my money situation, I think tape over the light will work fine for now - or if there's a fuse just for the TPMS, perhaps I'll yank it.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 1:30 am

I think I figured it out.

I found an excellent article explaining TPMS in detail here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_monitors.htm
And within that article was the following that is probably what happened to me:

Quote:

DO NOT USE TIRE SEALER WITH TPMS SENSORS

WARNING If you have a flat tire on a vehicle with TPMS sensors in the wheels, do NOT attempt to fix the flat by using an aerosol tire inflator/sealer product. The sealer may gum up the TPMS sensor inside the wheel and prevent it from reading normally. Most aerosol inflator/sealer products have a warning on the product label stating they should NOT be used in wheels that contain TPMS sensors. .

Problem is, I've been in many situations where the Fix-a-flat products have saved miass, including a trip with my 4 yo son where we got 2 flat tires a long way from anywhere. I'm also rather surprised they couldn't tolerate that stuff considering the extremely harsh environment inside a tire. (Shock, vibration, extreme cold & heat, moisture . . . )

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 8:07 pm

KeighJeigh wrote:

I think I figured it out.

I found an excellent article explaining TPMS in detail here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_monitors.htm
And within that article was the following that is probably what happened to me:

Quote:

DO NOT USE TIRE SEALER WITH TPMS SENSORS

WARNING If you have a flat tire on a vehicle with TPMS sensors in the wheels, do NOT attempt to fix the flat by using an aerosol tire inflator/sealer product. The sealer may gum up the TPMS sensor inside the wheel and prevent it from reading normally. Most aerosol inflator/sealer products have a warning on the product label stating they should NOT be used in wheels that contain TPMS sensors. .

Problem is, I've been in many situations where the Fix-a-flat products have saved miass, including a trip with my 4 yo son where we got 2 flat tires a long way from anywhere. I'm also rather surprised they couldn't tolerate that stuff considering the extremely harsh environment inside a tire. (Shock, vibration, extreme cold & heat, moisture . . . )

I carry an electric air pump that hooks to the cigarette lighter port and a tire plug kit and vicegrips . I've gotten soo good at plugging a tire from my old truck i measured the "before pulling the nail/reaming the hole/plugging the tire" pressure and the after pressure...only lost 2psi...didn't even need the pump. LOL

This is what I would recommend for a on the road fix-a-flat solution. I've never had a plug fail either which surprised me. I haven't had to plug my jeeps tire yet...knock on wood...

Only thing you might consider is the tire may get a tiny out of balance with a small plug in it. I never use more plug material than i need and cut off the excess to ensure not throwing off the balance too much.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 8:18 pm

x2 on the roadside plug technique. I prefer the black 'licorice stick' style instead of the red ones. The black ones self-vulcanize (fuse) to the tire very rapidly, no rubber cement needed, even though it might be in the kit. Get the better kit with the T-handle tools, it makes the rasp and the insertion tool much easier to use.

As for the balance... I wouldn't worry about it. These things weigh less than an ounce or two, not enough to disturb a 35-40 lb tire. The tire balancing is to repair the defects of light spots of metal in the RIM, b/c rims aren't perfectly balanced in molding.

danoid · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 pm

I've been fighting the same issue for a year an a half. I know it's not the sensor because I've rotated those (my summer tires with the stock wheels) three times since then. It ALWAYS complains about the spare and mostly complains about the right rear. Sometimes going as far as flashing the lights and chiming at me.

So far it hasn't bothered me enough to dig really deep, but I'll share my results when I do.

Kniggit · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:11 pm

anybody try their local Zona de Auto? they should have a few styles in stock in the back......

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 12:21 am

Really now? They stock the tpms sensors now?

Hmm... I might just have to give them a jingle, as the wrench monkeys at Sams Club somehow managed to completely shear off the top of the shraeder valve INSIDE the stem of one of mine. Morons.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 1:27 am

32 bucks is the cheapest I've found so far: http://www.tpmswholesalers.com/Sensors.aspx
Schucks/Oreilly can order them (2 days out) for $51. I haven't bothered calling the stealer.

PROBLEM: Finding a shop that will install them. 2 shops so far said they won't install a customer supplied part - - - and if they ordered the part, it would be from the stealer. :roll:

If possible, I would like to try and reset the system first and see if that helps. This is what I've found so far on how to test them:

TIRE SENSOR 2 LOW PRESSURE ALERT
² When Monitored:
Continuously.
² Set Condition:
The fault is set when there is a low tire pressure condition or sensor pressure measurement failure from the sensor/transmitter.
Possible Causes:
INTERMITTENT PERFORMANCE DTC
INCORRECT TIRE PRESSURE
TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR
WCM (SKREEM)

Theory of Operation
The tire pressure sensor actively monitors the air pressure and air temperature inside the tire, the sensor internal battery status, and the radial acceleration of the wheel. Each sensor has a unique ID code. The sensor transmits the data at regular intervals via an encoded signal to a receiver circuit located in the Wireless Control Module (SKREEM).
² When Monitored:
With vehicle speed greater than 15 m.p.h. (24 km/h).
² Set Condition:
The WCM (SKREEM) will monitor the signals from the four active road tire sensors. A loss of signal error is detected when eight consecutive blocks of data are not received or cannot be accurately decoded. An internal sensor hardware error condition will be set.

Diagnostic Test
1. DTC STATUS IS ACTIVE
NOTE: If the incorrect Placard Values (??) were programmed into the WCM/SKREEM, a DTC could be set. Before continuing with any TPM diagnostic test, using the scan tool, check that the correct Placard Values have been programmed in to the module.
NOTE:
If the following conditions are present:
– Low Tire Pressure DTC (Stored)
– Tire Pressure Sensor Internal DTC (Active)
– Spare Tire is not equipped with a Tire Pressure Sensor
– Spare Tire is currently on the vehicle
Repair the tire and place it back on the vehicle.
Test drive the vehicle.
If the DTC(s) reset continue with the diagnostic procedure.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, select View DTCs in the Wireless Control Module (SKREEM).
Is the DTC status Active at this time?
Yes >> Go to 2
No >> Go to 4
2. TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR
NOTE:
When working with vehicles equipped with the base tire pressure monitoring system the correct tire that set the fault must be identified. Following the below procedure will help in identifying the correct tire.
1. Set all tire pressures to the recommended specifications and recheck for fault/alert.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Starting with the left front wheel, deflate the tire to 20 PSI and wait 2 minutes. The fault will set once the
pressure has reached 20 PSI within the 2 minute time frame.
4. If the TPM fault was detected and not associated to this Sensor/Transmitter, repeat the process until the faulty Sensor/Transmitter has been identified.Once a fault/alert has set, it will establish the location of the tire pressure sensors/transmitter. Repeat steps until the applicable Tire Pressure Sensor/Transmitter has been located.
Turn the ignition off.

KJ 119 · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 8:39 am

The Green Slime kit from wallmart is a nice plug kit.Use it all the time on my truck.
Luckily I haven't had to use it on the Jeep.Went straight from the factory to Sams for a set of bfg muds.
50,000 miles and not one nail.Knock on wood.
Dang-it :banghead:

,does mdf count?

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 1:06 am

KeighJeigh wrote:

32 bucks is the cheapest I've found so far: http://www.tpmswholesalers.com/Sensors.aspx
Schucks/Oreilly can order them (2 days out) for $51. I haven't bothered calling the stealer.

PROBLEM: Finding a shop that will install them. 2 shops so far said they won't install a customer supplied part - - - and if they ordered the part, it would be from the stealer. :roll:

If possible, I would like to try and reset the system first and see if that helps. This is what I've found so far on how to test them:

TIRE SENSOR 2 LOW PRESSURE ALERT
² When Monitored:
Continuously.
² Set Condition:
The fault is set when there is a low tire pressure condition or sensor pressure measurement failure from the sensor/transmitter.
Possible Causes:
INTERMITTENT PERFORMANCE DTC
INCORRECT TIRE PRESSURE
TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR
WCM (SKREEM)

Theory of Operation
The tire pressure sensor actively monitors the air pressure and air temperature inside the tire, the sensor internal battery status, and the radial acceleration of the wheel. Each sensor has a unique ID code. The sensor transmits the data at regular intervals via an encoded signal to a receiver circuit located in the Wireless Control Module (SKREEM).
² When Monitored:
With vehicle speed greater than 15 m.p.h. (24 km/h).
² Set Condition:
The WCM (SKREEM) will monitor the signals from the four active road tire sensors. A loss of signal error is detected when eight consecutive blocks of data are not received or cannot be accurately decoded. An internal sensor hardware error condition will be set.

Diagnostic Test
1. DTC STATUS IS ACTIVE
NOTE: If the incorrect Placard Values (??) were programmed into the WCM/SKREEM, a DTC could be set. Before continuing with any TPM diagnostic test, using the scan tool, check that the correct Placard Values have been programmed in to the module.
NOTE:
If the following conditions are present:
– Low Tire Pressure DTC (Stored)
– Tire Pressure Sensor Internal DTC (Active)
– Spare Tire is not equipped with a Tire Pressure Sensor
– Spare Tire is currently on the vehicle
Repair the tire and place it back on the vehicle.
Test drive the vehicle.
If the DTC(s) reset continue with the diagnostic procedure.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, select View DTCs in the Wireless Control Module (SKREEM).
Is the DTC status Active at this time?
Yes >> Go to 2
No >> Go to 4
2. TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR
NOTE:
When working with vehicles equipped with the base tire pressure monitoring system the correct tire that set the fault must be identified. Following the below procedure will help in identifying the correct tire.
1. Set all tire pressures to the recommended specifications and recheck for fault/alert.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Starting with the left front wheel, deflate the tire to 20 PSI and wait 2 minutes. The fault will set once the
pressure has reached 20 PSI within the 2 minute time frame.
4. If the TPM fault was detected and not associated to this Sensor/Transmitter, repeat the process until the faulty Sensor/Transmitter has been identified.Once a fault/alert has set, it will establish the location of the tire pressure sensors/transmitter. Repeat steps until the applicable Tire Pressure Sensor/Transmitter has been located.
Turn the ignition off.

Tell the tire shop to break the tire down off the rim and you will install it (with your socket set you keep in your jeep right? lol), then give them the rim back and tell them to do their job and mount it...if they have a problem with that they are idiots.

- Just my :2cents:

A side story:

When I went to get my corvette tires mounted to my new wheels, the sensors didn't fit quite right in the aftermarket rims. I had to trim some plastic off the sensor housing. I did it right there with a pocket knife and let them finish the installation. No issues, they were happy I could fix it because w/o the tire sensors in the rim, it takes more weight(more of their $$ worth of lead) to balance.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 2:29 am

Sounds like a plan kapalczynski! Thanks.
Firestoned - at least the one here in town - is the worst about anything that doesn't strictly follow corporate protocol. The manager there was very confrontational when I attempted to explain what I wanted to do. As my 4 yo son would say: Mr. Crankypants.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 8:53 am

When mine was broken because the tire store put on a metal cap and tightened it too tight causing the valve stem to break on removal all that was necessary was to unseat and remove the outter bead. That allowed the sender to be replaced and the bead put back on without moving the tire position on the rim that would have then need rebalancing. A friend owns a repair shop so it cost me a dozen donuts :-)r

BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN TIGHTENING THE NUT ON THE VALVE STEM. IT'S PLASTIC :banghead:

The torque setting is very low, inch pounds, and it didn't really even get tight :juggle:

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 1:39 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

When mine was broken because the tire store put on a metal cap and tightened it too tight causing the valve stem to break on removal all that was necessary was to unseat and remove the outter bead. That allowed the sender to be replaced and the bead put back on without moving the tire position on the rim that would have then need rebalancing. A friend owns a repair shop so it cost me a dozen donuts :-)r

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTENING THE NUT ON THE VALVE STEM. IT'S PLASTIC :banghead:

The torque setting is very low, inch pounds, and it didn't really even get tight :juggle:

Plastic? - Now that's sad.

I just assumed Chrysler had at least the same quality as GM...is that asking too much??? :ROTFL:

The corvettes sensor nut and valve stem both are aluminum:

journeyjim · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 4:00 pm

I had the TMPS chimming once and light staying on, would check all four tires. Since mine is just the light they told me I didn't have the sensor on the spare, well they were wrong the spare did have a sensor and it was low, that's the reason for the single chime and light and not a constant chime and light. I've also found out with vacation that altitude and temp will change it enough to make it go off.

The tire is NOT low you SOB!

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