warp2diesel wrote:
True Torque Converter Shudder feels like an impact wrench or like a Gremlin beating up your drive line with a big hammer. U joints and crappy road ripples (lots in Illinois change lanes and it goes away) are more of a waving pulsing with out the impact feel. The only way to be sure about the U joints is to feel them with the drive shaft removed, some techs will tell you otherwise, but they can also find water or oil with a stick for well drilling in their spare time.
If you have the true impact feel with the shudder, plus have a delay when you first shift into reverse after a cold start (with out having a defective filter drain back valve). Better look into replacing the front pump or fixing (Sonnax and Transgo both have fixes) the front pump and replacing the torque converter. Converter options are SunCoast (mine), Precision Industries Hemi (some guys love 'em), J8/Euro (cheapest reliable option); each has their own characteristics and features, depending upon what you tend to do, it will make a difference, again study up, it is your choice. If you order the OEM you should make sure get the J8/Euro (what OEM should have been from day one) and not get a left over original.
If you don't have a delay when you first shift into reverse after a cold start (with out having a defective filter drain back valve) and only get the shudder when you are putting out a lot of HP/Torque, you may only have a bad torque converter and may not need the pump fix/replacement (good time to buy a Lottery ticket).
SunCoast and other High Performance shops recommend installing the Transgo or Sonnax fix for the pump if it is not being replaced, call it a CYA if you want, but most business people don't like having to talk to Lawyer's. For me even though I have not had any true torque converter shudder with my experimental TCM that shifts into 4th, 4th lock up, 5th, and 5th lock up at lower RPMs than even the Pre-F37, the Transgo front pump check valve is going in when I drop the trans (need to schedule vacation time).
Don't forget, the wrong fluid will make any Torque Converter Shudder, stick to ATF-4.
[b]Thanks Warp2Diesel for the above comment - especially the "delay when shifting into reverse". Only AFTER the expensive replacement of my TC, pump etc., solely to eliminate the shudder, I noticed a delay in backing up but didn't think too much about it. Initially there was no shudder and then I realized the independent shop had taken the truck to the dealer and had the F37 done to it. I then re-input my In Motion tune and noticed several issues. My shudder came back with a vengeance PLUS, more pronounced delay when backing on a cold engine - including once with no movement until it caught and squealed the tires. Then (after cold start) I noticed shifting in drive to slowly go forward felt like a manual transmission when you forget to push in the clutch when coming to a start. Actually stalled the engine twice now. And now the trans dash light came on with a generic code of P0700.
Taking it back to the trans shop Monday or Tuesday and am hoping they'll stand behind their work. Unless the reinstall of the Inmotion tune is creating problems, I think they screwed up the job. This is the truck they put in a Precision Industries TC, still had shudder, talked with Suncoast and actually redid the job with a Suncoast, still had shudder and then put the Precision back in (less expensive) and took the truck to the dealer for the reflash. I am not very happy with Chrysler, with the independent shop or with this Liberty.
But your comment on the delay when backing hit home and gives me something to use when going back to the dealer.
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