Mounting bung for a EGT

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 4:18 pm

With the recent turbo failures I'm thinking about installing a EGT guage on my CRD. I read in another thread where GDE listed EGT's at 150mm downstream of the mormon flange on the down pipe. I'm thinking about getting this one.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white-7- ... gauge.aspx

My question is does anyone know what material our down pipe is? If it's stainless I'll have to take it somewhere but if not I can handle it myself.

Thanks.
Joe

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 7:59 pm

After the turbo? I believe it is standard steel.

Glowshift probes aren't bad, if you get an M10x1.25 (IIRC, verify to be certain) nut from Home Depot, you can weld that directly to the pipe and be golden. I welded the nut on mine to the inlet side of the turbo's housing, then drilled it AFTER I welded it so that I knew it was properly centered. (I couldn't figure a way to center it in a test fitting before welding on some scrap) Turbo inlet causes mine to read a couple hundred hotter than post-turbo.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The exhaust sytem is stainless, just not the best grade of it. How were you planning to install it? The longevity of the screw clamp mount might be a concern included in the gauge kit.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:53 pm

Good idea to intall a pyro. I thought you were supposed to install them in the manifold before the turbo? That is where I mounted it on my Cummins. I had GlowShift (remove the f) gauges, they are kind of cheap to go through all that effort. I would go with a mechanical Isspro if it were me doing it. :2cents:

TJ2 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:57 pm

Ok, I'll bite. So what exactly is a 'mormon flange?' You'd think living in Utah I'd know about it

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:28 pm

... Wife adapter used to install extras? :ROTFL:

Sorry, I've been watching Big Love and couldn't resist an open line like that. :jester:

MACKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:47 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The exhaust sytem is stainless, just not the best grade of it. How were you planning to install it? The longevity of the screw clamp mount might be a concern included in the gauge kit.

As Keith said it is a low grade Stainless steel...usually around grade 409.
I don't like those clamp on units (one came with my EGT kit). I welded a threaded female socket for the pyro about 2" down from the elbow on the down pipe/outlet turbo flange.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 11:04 pm

304 stainless steel. That is why it rusts when exposed to salt or other chlorides. 304 is used because it is more ductile and easier to form and cheaper than 316. One area here 304 shines is its' resistance to fatigue, with the extra vibration of out CRD engines, this kids a blessing the Bean Counters did not get their way with. For once, we won.

Most stainless steel used in waste water equipment is 304 stainless steel.

DocB · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 11:24 pm

Joe,
Most would probably agree that pre-turbo might give you more valuable info.
Also, just drill a hole to install the thread in pyro.

You might want to consider this location in the manifold collector just before the turbo inlet:

Which is under and through (for the wire) this bracket:

And just to show off my gauges, so someone else can see them besides me:

Hopes this helps.

Glend · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:02 am

I agree with the pre-turbo location because then you know what the temperature is going into the turbo. If you install it after the turbo the heat sink effect of the tubo will mask the true situation (IMHO). My pyro probe is tapped into the exhaust manifold as close to the turbo as I could manage.

MACKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:39 am

Glend wrote:

I agree with the pre-turbo location because then you know what the temperature is going into the turbo. If you install it after the turbo the heat sink effect of the tubo will mask the true situation (IMHO). My pyro probe is tapped into the exhaust manifold as close to the turbo as I could manage.

Hi mate,
There are two obvious schools of thought on this, pre or post turbo.
IMHO if you allow for a reasonably constant temp loss of 100 degrees C (200 degrees F) across the turbo then a downstream installation still works. After all the EGT gauge is only an indicator, it is not as though it can be used to shut down the engine in this application (not like other smart industrial systems).
My 2 cents. Let the debate continue...

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:20 am

Thanks for all the replies :mrgreen:

I'll be looking for a shop equipted to weld the stainless downpipe. :cry:

I looked at their hose clamp adapter and very quickly dismissed that as a bad idea.

I'm glad someone knew what a mormon clamp is. :-)r

For those who didn't see it, GDE gave the VM recommended temperatures in another thread.
750-800c pre turbo and 650c measured 150mm from the "mormon" clamp post turbo.
These limits are intermittent maximum for 30 minutes and 50c less is continious max.

Doc, how do you find time to monitor all those guages :jester:

I'm thinking about the post turbo because it should be easier to get too. But my jeep is a mess and I've not felt like getting under it to see how much room is available.

I think the page said the fitting was a 1/8" pipe but I could be wrong. Drilling the hole after the bung is welded on is the only way to go.

I want to install the EGT guage to see where my temperatures are with the stock exhaust and GDE full torque tune expecially while towing :?:

Then IF needed I'll upgrade the exhaust. I would like to keep it stock for simplicity and I've not seen a way to eliminate the restriction at the joint. Maybe when if I can find a good muffler shop they can help with that too :BANANA:

thanks again
Joe

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:07 am

A good question is, what are you guys with pyros seeing for EGTs?
Towing?
Not Towing?
Manifold or down pipe probe?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:43 pm

I'm fairly constant on my readings now that I can call it a baseline. My CRD has been operating well for a while, and the driving scenarios fairly constant as well.

My probe is located in the entrance of the turbo, just on the turbo-side of the manifold flange. I have the nut welded right onto the snail of the turbo and the probe centered in the exhaust flow. Theoretically, this should be the absolute hottest point as it is also the narrowest flow point before the turbine itself.

At steady-state cruise of 70-75mph, I get a reading of 700F-750F when not towing. Idle temps bottom out at about 350F. Towing a Jeep ZJ with a tow bar (4 wheels on the road) and no excess wind resistance nets about 900-1000. The heaviest and largest trailer (my 7.5'x20' enclosed car hauler, 7000 lbs) at 60mph cruise gets me about 1200F. If there are hills or traffic... I'm not pushing it. Towing is NOT the time to beat on your vehicle.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:48 pm

DocB - I've seen your gauge photo a couple of times - and it looks interesting - but personally I'd really like to see all of the Sensors you wired in to get those gauges to work. (you might want a separate thread for the photos)

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:00 pm

geordi wrote:

I'm fairly constant on my readings now that I can call it a baseline. My CRD has been operating well for a while, and the driving scenarios fairly constant as well.

My probe is located in the entrance of the turbo, just on the turbo-side of the manifold flange. I have the nut welded right onto the snail of the turbo and the probe centered in the exhaust flow. Theoretically, this should be the absolute hottest point as it is also the narrowest flow point before the turbine itself.

At steady-state cruise of 70-75mph, I get a reading of 700F-750F when not towing. Idle temps bottom out at about 350F. Towing a Jeep ZJ with a tow bar (4 wheels on the road) and no excess wind resistance nets about 900-1000. The heaviest and largest trailer (my 7.5'x20' enclosed car hauler, 7000 lbs) at 60mph cruise gets me about 1200F. If there are hills or traffic... I'm not pushing it. Towing is NOT the time to beat on your vehicle.

Sounds like we are pretty safe when not in tow? How about with the Hot tune and the TCM tune? Lower RPMs might mean higher EGT?

Mounting bung for a EGT

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