Radiator Cap?

yakers · **Posted:** Fri May 27, 2011 6:14 pm

I'm going a bit crazy here, was sure I saw a post where someone mentioned that there is a new 17 lb radiator/coolant bottle cap that replaces the standard 16 lb cap, but searches have not been successful and the NAPA guy doesn't show it. Is this correct or have I been inhaling too many interesting fumes? Should the cap be replaced periodically anyway?

Wobbly · **Posted:** Fri May 27, 2011 7:11 pm

yakers wrote:

I'm going a bit crazy here, was sure I saw a post where someone mentioned that there is a new 17 lb radiator/coolant bottle cap that replaces the standard 16 lb cap, but searches have not been successful and the NAPA guy doesn't show it. Is this correct or have I been inhaling too many interesting fumes? Should the cap be replaced periodically anyway?

A 17psi cap would only increase the boiling point of a 50% solution of ethylene glycol and water by 2 degrees F, that is from 267 to 269 degrees F. Cap can be tested, not sure where, since "service stations" have been replaced by mini-serve stations. Coolant system test kits usually come with cap adapters.

SmokinJoe · **Posted:** Fri May 27, 2011 8:18 pm

I just replaced mine today...16lb from Napa. He looked it up and thats the replacement they show.

Can't see how it would make that big of a difference anyway. What would make a bigger difference to me is if I could locate that darn little coolant leak I have. :banghead:

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri May 27, 2011 8:49 pm

yakers wrote:

I'm going a bit crazy here, was sure I saw a post where someone mentioned that there is a new 17 lb radiator/coolant bottle cap that replaces the standard 16 lb cap, but searches have not been successful and the NAPA guy doesn't show it. Is this correct or have I been inhaling too many interesting fumes? Should the cap be replaced periodically anyway?

The stamping on my new Chrysler OEM coolant bottle cap says 17LBS, the old one I removed says 16LBS.

SmokinJoe wrote:

What would make a bigger difference to me is if I could locate that darn little coolant leak I have. :banghead:

Smokin, You and me both.
The Jeep mechaninc thinks it's due to air trapped in the cooling system. I tried everything to get it out and it's still there.

If someone has a good way of getting rid of the air in the cooling system, I would appreciate the advice because I've tried following all of the previous posts and it hasn't worked. What's the proper procedure?

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 2:35 pm

racertracer wrote:

yakers wrote:

I'm going a bit crazy here, was sure I saw a post where someone mentioned that there is a new 17 lb radiator/coolant bottle cap that replaces the standard 16 lb cap, but searches have not been successful and the NAPA guy doesn't show it. Is this correct or have I been inhaling too many interesting fumes? Should the cap be replaced periodically anyway?

The stamping on my new Chrysler OEM coolant bottle cap says 17LBS, the old one I removed says 16LBS.

SmokinJoe wrote:

What would make a bigger difference to me is if I could locate that darn little coolant leak I have. :banghead:

Smokin, You and me both.
The Jeep mechaninc thinks it's due to air trapped in the cooling system. I tried everything to get it out and it's still there.

If someone has a good way of getting rid of the air in the cooling system, I would appreciate the advice because I've tried following all of the previous posts and it hasn't worked. What's the proper procedure?

Some professional coolant refill tools pull a vacuum on the cooling system I believe and then pump in the coolant, eliminating the trapping of air. Similar concept as an A/C recharge. Check Snap-on or Mac's website. I think one of them sells a tool like that.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 7:19 pm

Did you open the radiator vent and have flow through the heater when filling?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 7:34 pm

Wobbly wrote:

Did you open the radiator vent and have flow through the heater when filling?

Wobbly, I would appreciate an explaination of that procedure. Not sure if I already tried it.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 7:39 pm

Wobbly wrote:

Did you open the radiator vent and have flow through the heater when filling?

Wobbly, I would appreciate an explaination of that procedure. Not sure if I already tried it.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 7:50 pm

Get the engine warm enough so that the thermostat opens. Pull up on the radiator vent on the passenger side of the radiator and have heat selected so coolant passes through the heater. Rev the engine a bit to assure that coolant can push the air out. Then close the vent. Turn off the engine. Check coolant level after the system has cooled down. Keep the reservoir cap on until the engine has cooled down.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat May 28, 2011 10:04 pm

Wobbly wrote:

Get the engine warm enough so that the thermostat opens. Pull up on the radiator vent on the passenger side of the radiator and have heat selected so coolant passes through the heater. Rev the engine a bit to assure that coolant can push the air out. Then close the vent. Turn off the engine. Check coolant level after the system has cooled down. Keep the reservoir cap on until the engine has cooled down.

Ok.... I"'ve done that in the past.

Update:

I have been working on the jeep from 2:00pm to 9:00pm, checking and rechecking hoses and clamps for leaks and discovered that the rubber heater hose closest to the firewall and just above the turbo were very soft and the left most one (passenger side) had a small drop of cooalnt hanging from the clamp,that I hadn't noticed before because I couldn't see it or reach to feel it. I believe the heat from the turbo deteriorates the hoses making them soft and mullable. These hoses were not heat resistant but were wrapped in heat resistant fabric that was falling apart. I decided to replace both hoses, I couldn't locate the heat resistant fabric from any local parts store, and I am not sure if I need it now that the hoses are heat resistant. Any advice on that would be appreciated.

The dealer wanted $112.00 for a heater hose kit/set. You can't just buy 2 small hoses that you need, you have to get the whole set of 4 small 5/8" hoses.

Forget that...... so I replaced them both with new 5/8" high temperature heater hose cut to size from NAPA, for $8.00.

This job was a PITA; you can't get your hands near the rear clamps to turn the little nut on the strap clamp. It took me hours and left me with bleeding knuckles.

Get ready to set aside some serious time if you need to do this job and it isn't fun.

Now onward to get the air out.

I'll keep you posted.

Racer

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon May 30, 2011 7:15 am

I replaced mine because the original was not building up pressure :jester:

geordi · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 5:58 pm

Good work Raf!!!!! Here's hoping that solves the problem for ya, finally!

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 6:44 pm

No leaks so far.

SmokinJoe · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 8:12 pm

racertracer wrote:

No leaks so far.

Congrats racer.... I haven't spent as much time as you did looking for the leak, but I need too. If my levels drop noticeably after the new cap, I guess that next on the list.
Good Work!! Glad its working out for you!
Darn coolant leaks are a PITA.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 9:18 pm

If you cannot find it easily try appropriate dye and a UV light. Many years ago I was able to find a leak that way that was so small it never dripped, just evaporated, but still caused steady fluid level drop.

Radiator Cap?

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