Hey Guys,

I'm currently gathering parts for the 100K timing belt replacement. I know that the water pump is TB driven, but I'm questioning whether to replace it. A deciding factor would be the impellor material. What is the impellor made of, plastic or metal? Has anyone experienced a water pump failure?

Thanks for your insight.

Hoosier CRD

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

The impeller is metal.

The previous owner of my jeep experienced an undetected water pump leak that may have been the contributing factor of my head gasket failure.


If you are looking to rebuild yours, you can buy a rebuilt water pump here for under $40.00.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-58-656/

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

A leak, eh? Sounds like enough of a reason to change it with the rest of the stuff, metal impellor or not. Thanks, racetracer.

Hoosier CRD

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Some have replaced it with the 1st timing belt change and some have not. It adds significant time and complexity to the TB job as you have to pull at least 1 if not both cam gears to get the cover off to get access to the water pump and the pump bolts are hard to reach. I have no experience with this but do seem to remember some recent chat about leaving the pump housing in place and just swapping out the impeller section which would seem to make things a bit easier.

At the minimum when you are in there for a TB job be sure to carefully check the water pump pulley for smooth action and little to no play and no leaks of grease same as for the idler pulleys. If it passes that test you can elect or not to take the risk of not replacing.

At 42K I have no clue what I'll do 58K from now which at the rate I'm driving in retirement won't roll around for about 6 yrs.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Come to MA is March, I'll have 2 to be done

Regardless of mileage I wouldn't risk the timing belt to go that long. The manufacturer will typically recommend 5-6 years at most.

e.g. from http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/f ... tGuide.pdf

"Avoid Costly Engine Damage; Change Your Timing Belt At The Recommended Interval Or Every 72 Months, Which Ever Comes First."

For a 2005, if I were you I'd be looking at changing it in the next year!

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

replaced my water pump at 100,000 mile timing belt service. Pump showed no wear at all, but I wouldn't want to do the job all over again b/4 200,000 miles.