Hello all,

I just purchased a 2006 CRD limited with 100k miles on it. So far me and my mechanic brother have changed the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, Radiator hoses, both hoses that go to and from the inter-cooler, Fuel filter head and filter, all the glow plugs, brakes all around and changed the oil and filter. I also serviced the transmission and flushed the cooling system.

All that was just preventative maintenance and servicing that was needed.

I am now installing a Provent 200 and hope that will help with the oil in the intake track issue.

After all this I still have a "low flow" EGR code and check engine light that I am having no luck with.

My goal with this truck is to drive it for another 100k or more miles (hints all the maintenance). I have a 74 mile round trip commute every day so gas mileage is very high on my list.

SO, given all this (sorry for the long lead up) here are my questions.

1. Should I replace the ERG valve? I really don't care if it works or not as I don't have to get an emissions test (thanks to being a CRD!) Remember I am after the highest MPG here.

2. Should I get a programmer of some sort? I hear they can electronically delete the EGR. is that so? will this option help gas mileage as well? Are there settings? so maybe I could have a TOW or Performance setting?

3. I will need new tires in 6 months or so. Is there an "All-Terrain" tire that I can run that will not effect my fuel mileage... or what about one that will help mileage (ok I am reaching) or at least not hurt it to bad.

4. One day I may want to lift this jeep. Is there a way to keep the speedometer and odometer correct? How bad does a small lift hurt fuel mileage?

5. Lastly is there a high flow muffler that CRD guys like? I am not sure I want to straight pipe it. Will either a new high flow muffler or exhaust help with fuel mileage? Other than noise is there a reason not to straight pipe it?

Thanks in advance
Mike

Welcome to the forum!

Reading you post from a technician's point of view, you and your brother are off to a great start. You certainly have hit all of the hot spots in terms of reliability and preventative maintenance.

However, you have not addressed anything in the EGR system, hence the CEL and code definition that remains.

The most popular tune is from Green Diesel Engineering (GDE) Look for the Full-Torque Eco-Tune. It will essentially eliminate the EGR activity and (should) turn off your CEL due to the EGR issue(s). I use my CRD for the job, with combined city'highway driving and am getting consistently 26-27mpg, calculated, NOT according to the EVIC.

I currently run the Firestone Destination LE tire; they were on the Jeep when I bought it and still have great tread depth. Not knowing where you live, it's hard to say if this tire will work well for you. BUT, you do have four-wheel drive. SO, it should work okay. I have only owned my CRD since September, so this is my first winter too. Aggressive on/off-road tread patterns may have a negative result on fuel mileage. Highway all-season may the way to go. Shoot towards the norm in your driving rather than the exception. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Thanks for the help!

I am in Atlanta GA and drive to work everyday ( I am the guy that comes in even when the roads are closed).

Highway all-seasons ... ok I will look into that.

Mike

Welcome aboard. Thoughts:
1. if you have not already done so read Sams NOOB guide, you have hit a lot of the high points but I don't see that you have cleaned the MAP sensor. While there download BOTH the 2005 and 2006 FSMs - the 05 lacks cooling data and diagnostic keys but has keys to the illustrations while the 2006 has cooling data and diagnostic keys but lacks illustration keys.
2. I for one would not waste my money on a new EGR. Options include 1) clean the EGR see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62495; 2) block off the EGR - there is a pipe going to the EGR valve that goes into the manifold you need to loosen up to change glow plug #3. To see the pipe flange, remove the two bolts that mount the fuel filter and swing it up out of the way. Loosen up the two bolts that hold the pipe to the flange and slid in a piece of exhaust gasket material, then tighten the two bolts. Now the EGR is DOA. Tuners have to recommend against the blocking off the EGR by law, but they cross their fingers when they say it or tell you only for off road use.; 3) my preference is get a GDE tune (http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home) that works for your type of driving (ex. mostly on road with some light towing get the EcoTune - I have and see actual 24mpg on short commutes and upto 33mpg on hwy at steady 62mph); folks report this removes the EGR CEL/MIL. Don't even think about a cheater chip.
3. Tires - I'm running new Goodrich Long Trail TA that some favor but you might want to look at the tire chat over at viewforum.php?f=8
4. Lift should have essentially no impact on speedometer/odometer/mpg unless you mess with tire size. FYI any lift over 1.5 inches apparently causes front drive axle problems due to increased angle. Check forum for lots of chat.
5. Any good 2.5" muffler like a Magnaflow Muffler #12226 will do fine as long as you add a bit of pipe to remove the nearby choke point.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I would agree going for the GDE eco-tune. I'm running Michelin LTX M/S tires, 235/70 R16. I just replace a set of those, got 100,000 miles out of them, and with the eco-tune (not the full-torque version) I've seen 34.75 mpg on the highway. I average 26-27 overall. The Provent will save you a lot of trouble. I'd make sure you clean out the intake and the MAP sensor while you are in there mucking about. That many miles without something to keep the oil out of the intake is bound to fill things up with crud.

Hi Mike, a little out of topic, but I'm in the ATL as well and will need some help with the time belt in a couple of months. Is your brother interested in helping out (of course I'm willing to pay for it) a fellow CRD owner with the TB replacement?? Please let me know..

Thank you !!
Willy.

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My brother is in OH so I would beat you don't want to drive 9 hours (one way) to have the work done. It was worth it to me as I got to spend some time with my family.

I am willing to help but remember I am not the diesel tech. I am not slouch but, I do not have a place to work on anything.

Mike

Sent you a PM Mike... so I don't hijack your thread. Thank you!!!

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We cleaned the MAP sensor. Man it really needed it!

I think I will spring for the Green Diesel Tune. In spirit of "doing it right" should I get a new converter and transmission tune?

Mike

I like the transmission tune although some worry about shifting while in lock up. As to the torque convertor I'm of the opinion that you should go with what you have unless there is a need to replace it. Need equals the TC dies or you do something like upgrade to the GDE turbo.

I'm sure others will offer different opinions.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well, now the provent is installed and the GDE "ECO" tune has also been flashed.

I hope to drive this thing for years without much trouble

Thanks guys